JHS

Have tried several things including things I have found on Mercedes expert sites, and have also purchased a code reader. 　

The car did run before, although would occasionally stall out.
Then it would start, but then stall out after a few minutes.
Then finally would not start, no click no turn over. 　

I have only 1 key, and know that new ones can not be programmed or purchased from Mercedes, so I need to make this one work.　

I tried to reprogram the key, via instruction from an expert.
It was to insert the key in the ignition, turn to the 2 position, then turn off again.
Hold down the lock button, and within 10 seconds press the unlock button 5 times, then any other button.

Prior to doing this reset, the remote would lock and unlock the doors, the panic alarm worked, and the key would turn in the ignition normally.

As soon as I completed the reprogramming procedure, the car alarm went off. The remote will now not lock or unlock the doors, and any change (trying to turn the key in the ignition, or trying to lock and unlock the doors, restarts the car alarm. I have had to remove the fuse for the alarm horn, as well as the indicator lights (since they also flash with the alarm triggered).

Battery is good.

After clearing most codes with a quick erase, four remain in memory:

1. ETC-Electronic Transmission Control - Fault/1-(135)-CAN Communication with the engine system is sporadically disturbed.

2. ME2-SFI-Motor Electronics 2 - Fault/1-(P1570) - Start enable of DAS not sent.

3. ETS-Electronic Traction System - Fault/1-(C1210) - Please refer to vehicle service manual.

4. AAM-All Activity Module - Fault/1&2-
(B1703-002) - The programmed code of the transponder is ok. The programmable code is invalid.
(B1858-002) - Two way radio signal. The programmed code is ok, but the programmable code is not synchronized.

It should be noted that prior to my trying the reprogram instructions from the expert, when the alarm subsequently went off and the remote stopped functioning properly, only Fault 1 was showing under the AAM (B1703-002).
This is why, after trying other things, and not getting any answers, I tried the reprogramming sequence.

I have also been told it could be the receiver ring where the key is inserted, but would love a good diagnosis and advice.

The red light in the dash does not blink once when turning the key to position 2.

I have been trying for 2 months now to get answers/assistance from anyone.
Was told to purchase a code reader. Did that.
Was told that specific codes were needed to diagnose exactly what is going on and needs repair. They are above.
I posted this issue already once on here, but was told I was in the wrong thread (164), so I am reposting here.

I am pretty handy with most things, and am willing to try things to get my vehicle going.
I do not have a great deal of money, and live remote with no Mercedes dealerships close regardless.
I really need to get the ML running again...it is needed for work, and to get my wife to regular hospital visits.

DrDoe

I don't have any experience on this but it seems like the current problem originated from the re-sync procedure.
I looked up W163 procedure and I saw this. It's a little different than yours:
"Same here, my 1999 ML320 owner's manual synchronization procedure is not working for me. This is out of 1998 Intreduction to service book: (I've scaned it but can't upload the page here, so this is what it says) First procedure: 1. Turn key to position 2 then back to position 0 and remove it. 2. With in 60 sec. push the lock button and lift gate button at the same time for 15 sec. 3. Press any remote control button twice to activate the system. Second procedure: 1. Turn key to pos.2 and back to pos. 0 and remove it. 2. with in 60 sec. press and hold the lock all button. 3. While the lock all button is depressed, press unlock button 5 consecutive times. 4. Press any RADIO remote button to activate the system."
Any way, I think you need to revisit the re-sync and update us with your fix.

Maj. Dundee

The registered owner of the veh. must go to a M/B dealer and present license, registration and owner certificate and order a spare key, approx. $50, which has a transponder installed. You must use this key to open and close the driver's door.

This will start the veh. but you will not be able to have anti-theft feature in the future.

JHS

Thank you.

Does this mean I cannot use the key I have?

I am also having difficulty getting the key to turn the lock. I believe it hadn't been opened or closed via the key in years...hence the lock is ceased. Used WD-40 but as yet haven't managed to free it.

I will try both of the reprogram procedures as noted above and see if it does anything.

Maj. Dundee

Turn the key to pos. #2, all the time watching the LED. Does it blink once?



Partially insert the key in the door and then spray into the lock. Then insert the key in and out a few times, then try to turn.

JHS

1.No, the light does not flash once, or at all, when turning the key to position 2.

2. I tried both procedures regarding reprogramming/resynchronizing the key, and observed no change. still will not operate the locks, and car still will not start.

3. I used more lubricant in the lock. Eventually I was able to turn the key to the left (counter clockwise), but not to the right.
When turning the key, it turns 180 degrees to the left, does not seem to be doing anything with regard to the door lock, and in fact it appears to be turning the entire lock cylinder like it is not attached to the mechanism.
The key can also be pulled out at any time in this 180 degree turn which I am assuming is not normal.

It would seem I am yet again back to the drawing board.

PS - Regarding the reprogramming procedure, I am assuming 'press any radio remote button' means press any button on the key? I also assumed that in both procedures you let go of the button or buttons you have been holding (lock and lift gate, and lock) before pressing the final button...or are you pressing the final button while still depressing the other button(s)?

Maj. Dundee

When the light does not blink once, it means that the 1. key fob has not been recognized or the 2. Transponder Coil around the ignition lock is faulty or 3. the AAM is faulty.

If it is the AAM the dealer is the only one who can install a new one and program it to your veh.

You must have the codes read in all modules with a scanner.


Why haven't you gotten a spare key yet?

JHS

I purchased this used Mercedes ML320 a little over 2 months ago, my first Mercedes. It was running at the time, but would not stay running...as I described in my large message starting this thread. Since I purchased the vehicle as is, I had it towed to my home to work on it and get it running. As also noted in my first message in this thread, I live remotely, far from a Mercedes Dealership, and do not have a great deal of money, hence trying to figure it out and try to repair it myself...hence asking here and looking in other places on line for any and all assistance and advice I can glean.
When I purchased the vehicle it came with only 1 key, all they had. They had been driving the vehicle regularly. One of the first things I looked in to was purchasing a second key...but after much research and inquiry found out that Mercedes discontinued making keys for these older model Mercedes vehicles, and they will also not use their proprietary programming to reprogram existing other used keys, so it is my understanding that one cannot get another remote key for these older models. I have found that one can get a spare, a simple transponder key, as you noted in an earlier message. I purchased 2 of them on line, and they arrived a couple of weeks ago, uncut. I have gone to several key cutters in the area that I could find, but none can or will cut a Mercedes key. Apparently that can also only be done by Mercedes, or possibly a locksmith...so I have been told. I do not have a running vehicle, so getting around is not easy, and taxis are expensive longer distances.
I originally posted a thread looking for help and advice here on MB World early in June, the first time I was on this site, but the site had sorted it into the W164 category. You also responded there, asking the same questions, and noting a couple of times that I was in the wrong thread...so I restarted and restated my issue and questions in this thread under W163, since my issues have not yet been resolved.
In my first thread in the W164 forum I was told I needed to get a code reader, in fact the same model you recommended in your link. I purchased it a month ago or more. I noted the same in the original thread under W164, and even posted a reply with exactly what code faults were present. I received no further responses or advice or interpretations of what the codes meant. Another reason why I reposted with this thread in the W163 forum, thinking that possibly I offended people somehow that I was in the wrong forum, and that is why no one responded to my posted code faults.
In my long initial post, starting this thread, I tried to summarize the steps already taken and the advice given in the previous thread. Included in that summary, at the top of this thread, I noted that I did not see the red light flash once, I noted that I purchased and used a code reader (the Autel 802 that was recommended), and I summarized, again, the code faults that the code reader gave me. I have copied and repasted them again from the top of this thread into this message:

Battery is good.

After clearing most codes with a quick erase, four remain in memory:

1. ETC-Electronic Transmission Control - Fault/1-(135)-CAN Communication with the engine system is sporadically disturbed.

2. ME2-SFI-Motor Electronics 2 - Fault/1-(P1570) - Start enable of DAS not sent.

3. ETS-Electronic Traction System - Fault/1-(C1210) - Please refer to vehicle service manual.

4. AAM-All Activity Module - Fault/1&2-
(B1703-002) - The programmed code of the transponder is ok. The programmable code is invalid.
(B1858-002) - Two way radio signal. The programmed code is ok, but the programmable code is not synchronized.

It should be noted that prior to my trying the reprogram instructions from the expert, when the alarm subsequently went off and the remote stopped functioning properly, only Fault 1 was showing under the AAM (B1703-002).
This is why, after trying other things, and not getting any answers, I tried the reprogramming sequence.

I have also been told it could be the receiver ring where the key is inserted, but would love a good diagnosis and advice.
.

I would love to get some advice specific to the code faults and what they mean regarding my vehicle, and what I can do about them.

Thank you.

Maj. Dundee

There are two choices for the Transponder Coil, depending on the vin#. Please post your full vin#.

JHS

Vin#: 4JGAB54E1WA033931

Maj. Dundee

Code B1703 is specific to the Transponder. You can buy it online from this dealer. It is plug and play.

Maj. Dundee

Before ordering anything, perform a quick test to see if 12v is being deliver to the AAM.

Key out of ign., remove the covers surrounding the steering column. Turn key to pos. #2 and test RED & Orange wires at ign. switch for 12v.

Then, if the two wires above have voltage, disconnect the transponder from the main harness and at the main harness test the WHITE & BLUE wires with a DVOM for 12v.