M-Class (W163) Produced 1998-2005: ML 230, ML 320, ML 350, ML 400 CDI, ML 430, ML 500, ML 270 CDI

2002 ML320 with low voltage to AC compressor: climate controls pin-out anyone?

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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 12:18 PM
  #1  
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2002 ML320 with low voltage to AC compressor: climate controls pin-out anyone?

Hey everyone, I've got a 2002 (with updated climate controls) that is having a low voltage signal going to the AC compressor.
Compressor is new. I just got the car and I got it for cheap because the AC wouldn't work. I could see the front of the compressor and it had a busted clutch.

I can turn on the new compressor with a straight wire directly from the battery and everything works fine.
I took it to the shop and they said the compressor is only getting 4 volts and needs 12v to engage.
They then quoted me a $300 labor charge (plus another $500 for new controls) to take apart the dash and test voltage coming out of the controls... I can easily take apart a dash myself, but I was wondering if anyone knew the pin-out on the controls so I can test voltage myself.
I'm picking it up today. I can easily get a $200 set of used controls off of ebay and just replace the one I have in the dash now, but I'm not going to spend that money if the voltage is coming out is fine from the controls and I'm dealing with a frayed wire somewhere...

I'm betting a wiring diagram is on this site somewhere but my searching isn't finding it.

thanks!
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 02:00 PM
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When you get the truck back, remove the radio, then the Center Section of the I.P. and then the AAC Control Module.

Disassemble the AAC with a T7 Torx screwdriver and check for a burned circuit on the back of the circuit board.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
R&I Radio.pdf (49.1 KB, 172 views)
File Type: pdf
R&I Center Section of IP-2.pdf (114.1 KB, 197 views)
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 03:49 PM
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Thanks!
Now I have the updated controls, so this will still work?

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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ChatWithaNinja
Thanks!
Now I have the updated controls, so this will still work?

Have no idea what you are talking about.
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 11:22 PM
  #5  
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From: ATL
2010 R350, 2012 CLS63 P30 (sold), 2009 C63 (totaled), 2002 ML320 (Sold)
199x - 2001 use these climate controls (the same ones in your PDFs that you attached) that look like this:


While my controls (2002 +) look like the one I linked in the previous post. (ignore the arrows, that was just on the image already and have nothing to do with it)
It was just a question in case you already knew. I'm going to take them out and replace them.
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Old Aug 19, 2018 | 07:15 PM
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OK... back for more.
So the AAC controls are good. I took them apart and they show no signs of blown fuses.
The system is charged correctly.
The compressor get a 4V signal, not the 12 it needs.
I hot wired the compressor direct to the battery and ran it for 5-10 seconds (until my daughter yelled COOL!!)
I have an iCarSoft reader and the only reading I see that might be of use is the "A9 (AC Compressor) 35%"
not sure if that is in spec or what...

I've read that the pressure/temp sensor can be faulty and not reading right. I'm down to that really... Unless anyone has other ideas?
Please?

Thanks!!
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Old Aug 19, 2018 | 07:19 PM
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Pic
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 02:22 AM
  #8  
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Is your reader capable of extracting codes in the AAC?
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DTC AC as of 2002.pdf (57.2 KB, 882 views)
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 09:55 AM
  #9  
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Yes i have the following:
b1302
b1108
b1105
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 02:08 AM
  #10  
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After you replaced the compressor, did you fully charge the system with refrigerant?

Did you clear the codes after recharge?

Check the operation of the Coolant Cir. Pump. Turn the key to pos. #2 and feel the pump with your hand to see that it vibrates.
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AC Compressor Locked Out.pdf (55.6 KB, 224 views)

Last edited by Maj. Dundee; Aug 21, 2018 at 04:31 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 02:11 PM
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Yes, the system was fully charged.
I cleared the codes after I read them. No change.
I'll check the pump to see if its working when key is on.

Thanks!

edit: key to "on" but not running?
AC on full auto?

Last edited by ChatWithaNinja; Aug 21, 2018 at 02:24 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 04:45 PM
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update:
there is no sound or vibration at all from that pump in the picture you attached. I even got a long flathead screwdriver and placed it on the pump and put it to my ear with the key to "on" and I could hear the fan blowing full inside, but nothing from the pump.
I checked the codes and the only one (other than a flap code) left after clearing is the B1108
pic attached.

Last edited by ChatWithaNinja; Aug 21, 2018 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 04:47 PM
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Pic

Ignore the 2/5 notation. this was when I took pics before clearing codes.
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ChatWithaNinja
update:
there is no sound or vibration at all from that pump in the picture you attached. I even got a long flathead screwdriver and placed it on the pump and put it to my ear with the key to "on" and I could hear the fan blowing full inside, but nothing from the pump.
I checked the codes and the only one (other than a flap code) left after clearing is the B1108
pic attached.
What is the flap code # and what is the description of it?
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 08:50 PM
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All codes and info i could pull off of the carsoft
all info was pulled while car was running in park and AC on auto






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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 04:28 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ChatWithaNinja
199x - 2001 use these climate controls (the same ones in your PDFs that you attached) that look like this:


While my controls (2002 +) look like the one I linked in the previous post. (ignore the arrows, that was just on the image already and have nothing to do with it)
It was just a question in case you already knew. I'm going to take them out and replace them.
Is this the control that is in your truck?
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 04:57 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ChatWithaNinja
Pic

Ignore the 2/5 notation. this was when I took pics before clearing codes.
I can't believe that I ignored this code. It is either for the Coolant Cir. Pump and or the module box Blower Motor.

With the key out of the ign. check both contacts for 12v at fuse #5 in the right side kick panel fuse box.
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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Is this the control that is in your truck?
Negative. I have the 2002 updated controls.

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Old Aug 23, 2018 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
I can't believe that I ignored this code. It is either for the Coolant Cir. Pump and or the module box Blower Motor.

With the key out of the ign. check both contacts for 12v at fuse #5 in the right side kick panel fuse box.

The fuse looks good.
the key is out and I am getting 12v on the bottom slot and nothing on the top - so yes, I am getting power to the fuse.

Last edited by ChatWithaNinja; Aug 23, 2018 at 02:28 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 02:18 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ChatWithaNinja
The fuse looks good.
the key is out and I am getting 12v on the bottom slot and nothing on the top - so yes, I am getting power to the fuse.
Pull the fuse and if it looks like the image, it is blown. Pull it and replace it.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 09:47 AM
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yeah, the fuse is good. I've checked ohm.
I'll replace it for confirmation anyway.

So if I have a bad coolant circulation pump, would that cause the AC to not come on?

And I am not familiar with the "module box blower motor" - what and where is that and what is its function?
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 09:54 AM
  #22  
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You said that the fuse only showed voltage on one contact and not the other. That means that the fuse is blown. Something is wrong.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
You said that the fuse only showed voltage on one contact and not the other. That means that the fuse is blown. Something is wrong.
Sorry, no. The fuse block showed voltage on one slot but not the other. 12v current is going to slot 1, then it hits fuse, then it goes out slot 2. when I removed the fuse, that was what I got. 12v current coming out slot 1 and nothing in slot 2 (no short circuiting with 12v going to both end of the fuse).
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ChatWithaNinja
Sorry, no. The fuse block showed voltage on one slot but not the other. 12v current is going to slot 1, then it hits fuse, then it goes out slot 2. when I removed the fuse, that was what I got. 12v current coming out slot 1 and nothing in slot 2 (no short circuiting with 12v going to both end of the fuse).
I have no idea what you are trying saying, none whatsoever. There is no current involved, just volts.

Do you get 12v when you test both contacts? Yes or no.



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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 09:54 AM
  #25  
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So I have been a shade tree mechanic for 30 years and I have messed around with fuses on my life and never once did I realize that there were slots on the top of the fuse that you could check the volts without removing the fuse. I thought you said that I needed to remove the fuse and measure volts going to the fuse from the fuse block which is why I said 1 slot on the fuse block has power the other does not.

thanks for showing me something new! Even though I really should have known it a long long time ago LOL

yes I am getting 12 volts on both side of the fuse
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