Engine Oil Leak
#1
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Engine Oil Leak
Thought I'd ask first, before I took it in!
I have an oil leak on the right hand, lower front of the engine. It gets on the Alternator as well. I've checked the drain plug.
I'm not sure about the rubber piece where the dipstick tube fits in, or a electrical sensor of some kind sitting in that area.
It's happened before......seemed to have cleared up.....and now it's back again.
Anyone with a similar experience? Please let me know what it might be and a solution.
Thanks!
I have an oil leak on the right hand, lower front of the engine. It gets on the Alternator as well. I've checked the drain plug.
I'm not sure about the rubber piece where the dipstick tube fits in, or a electrical sensor of some kind sitting in that area.
It's happened before......seemed to have cleared up.....and now it's back again.
Anyone with a similar experience? Please let me know what it might be and a solution.
Thanks!
#3
I have noticed that my engine oil is leaking from around the Torx bolts themselves. I attempted to reseal the oil pan, however the oil pump assy sticks down so far into the pan, that I was unable to remove the oil pan because the crossmember or whatever it's called was right below the oil pan.
All I could do was slide it around back and forth to apply the sealant, and was never actually able to take it out and set it on the workbench. I can't believe they don't use a gasket of either rubber or cork. In my attempt to reseal it, I still have maybe 3 bolts that still leak, but it's a lot better than it was!
All I could do was slide it around back and forth to apply the sealant, and was never actually able to take it out and set it on the workbench. I can't believe they don't use a gasket of either rubber or cork. In my attempt to reseal it, I still have maybe 3 bolts that still leak, but it's a lot better than it was!
#4
Oil pans suck. You have to raise the engine up off the mounts, and then
slide the pan out of the front. Its no fun. Many cars require the oil pump be removed, or subframe dropped. You have a distinct advantage in that its not at all hard to pull the front differential out.
Sealing surfaces MUST BE ABSOLUTELY 100% clean or IT WILL LEAK. NO gasket residue, no oil, nothing. \
when reinstalling the pan, often you will accidently scrape the back of the pan on something and smear the sealant off. Again this job sucks. And then there is the oil that is constantly running down all over you. Did I mention this job sucks yet???
slide the pan out of the front. Its no fun. Many cars require the oil pump be removed, or subframe dropped. You have a distinct advantage in that its not at all hard to pull the front differential out.
Sealing surfaces MUST BE ABSOLUTELY 100% clean or IT WILL LEAK. NO gasket residue, no oil, nothing. \
when reinstalling the pan, often you will accidently scrape the back of the pan on something and smear the sealant off. Again this job sucks. And then there is the oil that is constantly running down all over you. Did I mention this job sucks yet???
#6
Not one of my favorites would be an understatement..... :v
The only one that looks even remotely easy is on a G-500. And they never leak.... In the real world the 113 and 112 motors never really leak anyways. Its usually a result of the harmonic balancer eating the oil pan causing the leak, or a botched reseal of the pan when that happened previously.
I am glad I rarely have to do oil pans anymore.
The only one that looks even remotely easy is on a G-500. And they never leak.... In the real world the 113 and 112 motors never really leak anyways. Its usually a result of the harmonic balancer eating the oil pan causing the leak, or a botched reseal of the pan when that happened previously.
I am glad I rarely have to do oil pans anymore.
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#7
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Originally Posted by drummerboy
So I finally took it in to the dealer and found out, it's the seal on the timing chain tensioner. Get's fixed in a couple of days!
Thanks everyone!