Hello,

I need to replace the 3rd brake light (that is in the center of the hatch).
How do you remove the plastic trim on the hatch?

I see two plastic tabs on both sides. After removing these tabs,
do we just pull hard? I didn't want to break it....

Any help would be appreciated.

pcy

 

Are you just replacing the bulb inside? If so, just squeeze on each side of the cover, there is a small tab on each side and when far enough out, just pull the thing straight off. Reverse to install, squeeze a bit and snap in place again.

 

WienerWater, Thanks for the info. I will try that.

pcy

 

I have a clunk in the back of the vehicle and would like to hear the answer to the orignal question, since that is where I plan to start; behind the lift gate.

Can anyone comment? `99 ML320

 

What do you mean by a "Clunk"? Is it a rattle, like something when moving, or when you open and close the liftgate only? Be a bit more specific.

 

It only does it when moving, and more when side to side bumps on uneven surfaces (but never during speed bumps). The rear hatch doesn;t seem loose, and the door stops are as far out as they can be without the door not closing well.

I have removed everything from the back of the truck, checked CD player, spare tire assembly, sun roof drain tubes (seem secure enough.)

Dealer lubed rear seal, but no real change.

 

Did you check down inside with a flashlight where the first aid kit is, and on the othe side with the cd changer (at least in mine)? Could be somthing at the bottom in there bouncing. One thing I discovered on mine when I hit a bump etc, it was the seat belts that were not being used at the time. If not properly retracted and in place, the metal insert piece would bounce off the plastic door frame trim, which sounded like a marble rolling in a side pocket, maybe check that as well.

 

I checked both sides but should inspect the bottom area for anything loose.

So how do I remove the trim?

 

You may need a new latch in back..... I remember that being a big issue way back when. They rattle a lot.

 

With the liftgate closed push in on the bottom of it with your hands to see if it feels loose. If it does take a T40 and move the liftgate striker in about 3mm and that will fix your problem. Autogunner.

 

Great tips, but I don't think the latch is the issue.

So then, how do I remove the plastic trim that covers the inside rear door/hatch area?

 

Had the ML in for a transfer case leak, then cat replacement. (Both under extended warranty.) I meantioned that I noticed that the rear hatch light/switch only worked normally in 2 of the 3 positions and didn't go on/off when the door was open/closed in the 3 switch position.

They found/replaced the activation part (of the latch) and now no more clunking and the light works normally now.

 

http://www.leubner.com/w163/ML%20Vid...%20Removal.MPG

Panel Removal (Video instructions):
----------------------------------
1. Unscrew the inside latch handle cover (single small screw)

2. Push the latch handle cover upward toward the window and pry outward with a wedge tool (if you don't have a wedge tool then carefully use a flat screw driver)

3. On either side of the lower inside plastic moulding (approx 1/2 way up the window) there are pins. Push the center of the pin in (without fully pushing it through), then pry the whole pin out. Use something like a knife blade (I come from Switzerland , so I'm using a fondue stick)

4. Once both pins are removed, pry off the panel with a Wedge tool starting from the lower center edge. Once the lower edge is off, push the moulding upward toward the window so as to remove the top side. Important is not to pull off the top of the moulding before pushing it up, since there are plastic tabs on the top (window) side that fix or hook it into the window edge.


Hatch Handle removal:
----------------------
1. Remove Panel
First remove the panel per instructions above.

2. Remove Handle cover Plate. (has licence plate lights in it)
Unscrew the handle cover plate from below (2 Screws)
Unscrew the 2 inside nuts also holding the outer edge of the cover plate (You need to do this from inside of hatch.
Now remove the handle cover, also disconnecting the wires from the lights mounted on it that illuminate the number plate . Remember the color of the wires that connect to each connector.

2. Remove Hatch door Handle
Under the cover plate there are the 2 screws fastening the hatch door handle. Unscrew these and pull the component out of the hatch , to the drivers side.

 

I'd like to add some clarifications and hints to the above proceedure.

For the Panel removal:

In step 1, it really is the small screw easily visible, not the larger screw behind the lever.

In step 2, do not try to pry out the trim panel until you have pushed it up towards the window about 1/2 centimeter - you may need to push against the paneling about the trim piece to allow the trim piece to move. If you try to pry it out too early, you will break the four tabs that hold it in place. If you do break it, you will need the vehicle's VIN to order the correct replacement.

In step 3, there are ten plastic clips that hold the panel on internally, plus two metal clips. Plan on replacing all ten plastic clips, and be careful not to lose the metal clips

For Hatch handle removal:

In step 2, I recommend you remove the nuts first, then the screws. When replacing the screws during re-assembly, be very careful not to cross thread the holes - the material is aluminum and can bind easily if cross threaded. I would suggest you do this by hand.

Step 3: Prior to unscrewing the handle, you will need to disconnect the latch linkage from the handle to the latch at the bottom - gently push it towards the drivers side until it pops free. Disconnect the wiring - there are two different size connectors so you will not mix them up. You may find it helpful to use a small screwdriver or your fingernail to lift the catch on the connectors to release them.