jorpu

I've ordered an ML with Audio20 and I'm thinking to replace it with some kind of device, like a Kenwood, Clarion, Alpine... to have all the new technology (usb, i-pod, hd navigation, bluetooth, telephone...) in just one device.

Any advice? Anyone knows where to find the cover to place a 2din?

Thanks. I'm new at the forum.

BrabusMan

You can have a cover fabricated at any decent audio shop. These newer Mercedes are a real pain to replace the Command unit. I would suggest keeping the factory unit and just doing an audio upgrade using an Audio Control LC8 with your choice of speakers and amps.

DUTCH

Why didn't you order the Harmon-Kardon unit? It's an excellent system.

AR.Shah

I you're also looking for navigation, its perhaps better if get you the original command unit. There are companies that specialize in retrofitting command systems, also at a price better than from factory. You can search for them at ebay. Good luck and let us know which solution you go for.

jorpu

I'm sorry I didn't put my reasons for not choosing the command.

Basically because I want navigation, I want bluetooth phone integrated in the sound system and I want mp3 (with usb if it's possible, or also bluetooth). These things, very common nowadays, mean in term of mercedes to pay the command unit for navigation, the pre-installation of telephone (adn after the arrival of the car, pay more for the bluetooth), the cd-changer for mp3 (limited at 100 songs for disc), the i-pod connection... and all these is 2 o 3 times more expensive than any other device that do all these things.

If I had an infinit budget, I would have ordered all the official gadgets from the factory, but my budget is over when buying this car and I can't afford this fuctionality at Mercedes cost.

If any other has done something like this I would appreciate any advice.

AR.Shah

I think this one looks cool, don't know about the quality:
http://cgi.ebay.de/DOPPEL-DIN-6-2-TO...QQcmdZViewItem

DUTCH

I think that by the time you pay someone to add all of that functionality into your ML without losing the functionality already built into your ML, you'll probably pay just about the same. I could be wrong.

Lots of CAN BUS and other high tech communication networks in the ML. I would hate to see them screwed up by a jackleg electronics installer.

jorpu

I asked an audio shop, and they have told me there will be a new device from Alpine in the next few months. I will recieve my ML by september, so if the new device is out I think I'll get it.

kevinchung

go to www.alpine.com.au they have a new product call VehicleHub

kevinchung

have a look, i think it is not bad.
http://www.mbcnsw.org.au/forum/index...ic,1977.0.html

thanks
Kevin

jorpu

thanks Kevin,

I think it's the best right now.

I continue looking for the plastic piece to put arround the screen which fits the hole.
If anyone know anywhere to buy it, please post it.

Thanks to all.

AR.Shah

Wow thats very neatly done.

Floobydust

jorpu -

I think you're exactly right to go aftermarket. I just got a 2007 (687 miles on it) with the Harmon Kardon, the iPod adapter, and the Bluetooth adapter.

The system is GD joke.

With the CD, the HK is merely adequate. The midrange is a harsh, there is a huge mid-base resonant "hump', and there is no adjustment for the center or sub-woofer channels. It doesn't compare well with my wife's RDX and it's like a seven transistor AM radio when compared with the Mark Levinson systems.

The iPod adapter is an absolute fraud. It only integrates to the iPod to the vehicle, not the command system, thus you only get the iPod display on the instrument cluster. This is really dangerous (I've almost hit things while squinting at the display). The track forward/back controls are also backward from the CD player/radio. Hmmm. The audio is simply fed through the analog "AUX" jack on the command. And the sound pure 100%, undiltued crap. The overall sound level is down 6-12 db, the bass response is down yet another 12 db. There is ground loop noise. It makes the AM radio sound like a home theater. But it does keep your iPod charged, so I look at it as a $320 in-vehicle iPod charger.

The Bluetooth is another abomination. Besides costing an additional 400 bucks, it only works with a few select phones and then often only in limited ways. I can make and recieve calls if it's in the mood, but that's it. No contacts, no caller ID, nothing. And, the bluetooth link doesn't shut off when the car does so I often find that after I go in the house, my calls still go to the car. Other manufacturers seemd to have figured this simple thing out.

I may go your way despite already having the goodies. It will certainly be more staisfying and may be cheaper that going with another vehicle. I'm at least planning to modify the iPod charger, uh, adapter and design a differenct subwoofer (to eliminate the mid-bass issue).

I think you did the right thing.

- FD

Gset1064

FD,
Keep us update on what you'll change ....I myself very dissapointed with HK system. So let us know how to make it better...
Many thanks
Happy modding..

kevinchung

i am looking for a after market GPS system with can connect rear camera as well.
kevin

kevinchung

http://cgi.ebay.de/Radioblende-MERCE...QQcmdZViewItem

Floobydust

FYI, a little update. I dragged the Denon Audio Technica CD, the scope, and the SPL meter out last weekend to measure the H-K system performance in anticipation of sub-woofer modifications. M-B uses a puny sub in the H-K system, but there is enough space behind the wheel well for a much larger unit. I had hoped M-B wouldn't be so cheap or at least I would to be able to add a good 10-12" sub.

I found out that the system uses the boost/sharp-cut-off technique to make the most of the teensy sub. This is apparently done by the TI TMS320DA610 audio DSP in the audio gateway and fed directly to the sub amp via the most fiber optic buss.

By way of background, a technique to dramatically boost the performance of small subs was developed in the early '80's. As the acoustic bass response of the sub falls off, equalization is used to compensate up to the point where either excessive cone excursion or lack of amplifier power starts to introduce distortion. A sharp high-pass cut-off filter is then used to "limit" any more output below that point.

The H-K uses this very technique. This means that that you could install a (passive) sub the size of Manhattan and you'll get nothing more than that mid-bass thump of the present system (albeit louder). At least for a passive system.

It may be possible to "recover" the lost low end via an active EQ/amp approach, but maybe not. A DSP processor can indeed create a true "brick wall" filter so it may not be possible. I'll keep working on it.

I also noted that the low end cut-off in the door speakers is very sharp. This prevents the sub from "blending" into the acoustic image very well (but does allow M-B to use really cheap door speakers). Again, because of the central DSP, nothing can really be done about this either.

If people are still interested, I'll keep updating on my progress.

- FD

Gset1064

Keep us update....thanks. Please do not forget the pics when everything set and done from b'fore and after... .

adarquea

I am not audio tech-savy but does that imply that changing the door speakers will not bring much improvement to the system?

Floobydust

It's not to say that changing the door speakers wouldn't bring about improvement. It might. Certainly an improvement in the midrange response is very possible. But, any low end / mid-bass improvement will be much more limited than what could be possible if you had total access to the signal presented to each speaker.

HanselLee

Dude ... sorry to bust your chops but the Harman system has a lot of distortion and is really inferior.

Floobydust

FYI, I just finished my subwoofer upgrade to the H-K in my ML. I put a 10" sub designed for a small volume box which I designed to fit into the space occupied by the original 6" sub and the first aid kit (at 6" I hesitate to call it a "woofer" or even a sub). The first aid kit was moved to the spare tire area. The new sub is driven by a 150 watt (true RMS) amp that is interfaced to the original sub amp. A small box system like this can deliver deep bass, but is inherently inefficient (Hoffman’s Iron Law), hence the need for power to drive it.

I'm still tuning it a bit, but the sound is already absolutely delicious. Put on Steely Dan's Two Against Nature and you can hear the punctuation of the bassist's fingernail plucking across the string, followed by the deep power of the note. It's a really nice experience.

While this modification certainly fixed that shortcoming, unfortunately, it only highlights the other many shortcomings of the H-K system. But it's a start.

- FD

AR.Shah

Nice

Floobydust

OK, I'm going to take a bit of a chance and post pics of the sub install in did in my ML350. They're not the greatest photos, but for better or for worse, here they are:

1 - Mock-up. There is a lot of wasted space in the well where the stock sub is located, but the space is strangely shaped, so I had to make a cardboard model so that I could capture as much of the volume as possible in the sub enclosure.

2 - Box front and back. Here is the finished box with the Pioneer sub. Note the odd shape to utilize the available volume (just as a note, I prefer JL audio, but as you can see, I needed a low profile sub to fit in the odd shaped box).

3- Here is the sub in place, before final mounting.

4 - The finished sub install.

5 - The amp installed under the spare tire cover. The amp fits exactly into the well of the spare tire.

6 - Done!

For what it's worth.

- FD

Floobydust

Last two pics . . .