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First time poster, Long-time reader. This forum and its members have helped save me $1000s over the years and for this, I thank you!
My ML 350 has a crank, no start scenario. I parked in my driveway over the weekend and Monday the vehicle started for a second or 2 (I know because I saw exhaust fumes) and then died. The vehicle turns but does not start.
What I have done: Scanned using OBDII (shows a throttle valve actuator P0638 and a Alternator serial interface 1137 code), replaced battery, checked relays and fuses, changed crankshaft position sensor AND camshaft position sensors (not the magnets though). A month ago I changed spark plugs, coils and 02 sensors (all OEM). Car ran fine (relative term, as I have several ECU issues/potential bad module) for weeks. Tested fuel rail = gets good pressure.
Had towed to MB dealer who- get this, tells me the car has 'water damage' and that 'water got into the engine' and that the motor is 'getting no compression'. And wanted $1600 to take the engine apart. Helpful to note, my car has not been in any flood scenario and worked previously.
Refuse to believe I have a bent valve or something like that, I feel it in my gut that it's something electrical.
Thank you so much all! This thread explains the exact problem with my 2011 ML 350. Though I got another issue, and hope that someone here could point me in the right direction.
So I removed the EIS and found this piece is broken. What could this be? It's directly on the other side of the 3 pin connector.
I circled its location where I took it out from here. This was where the teal device came from.
Do you what that teal device is and if I can buy it?
I've been looking over the internet for SMD resistor/ capacitor but I cant find one with teal color. It's dimension is 2 mm x 1 mm. I appreciate any suggestions.
Thank you so much for this information, I also discovered that my connector was not attached to the circuit board and then I attempted to solder it up myself. I have not done too much soldering but felt confident enough when I started. I was able to get it decently attached but then went to try it in my 2010 Mercedes R350 Bluetec. I soon found out that it did not work and I could not start my vehicle. I thought that I must of done something wrong or attached too much solder so I tried again. Then attempted to try in my vehicle again with no luck. Talk about panic as I had to tell my wife of my great idea to mess with something that controls everything. I decided that I would face the flames and go back to the dealer to see how much a new one would cost. They needed the vehicle to be towed and then the $600-$700 for the EIS, Then $350 or so for a new key and 2 hours of labor would land in the $300 dollar range. I really felt the gravity of my choices. So for the rest of a few days this kept rolling around in my mind trying to figure out what I was going to do. I then decided to go back to my EIS as it basically did work and was already broken by me to take it into a shop and have a professional solder it up. He did a wonderful job and only charged me $20 dollars to get the white connector attached. I then went back home to try and see if it worked with no luck again. After all that I decided to read through this form one last time to see if I missed a reset or something for the EIS thinking it was my Anti theft keeping it from working. Then I noticed this resistor post and took a good look at mine and noticed that my resistor was discolored like in my attempts I might of got it too hot and made the resistor fail. I then went back to another electronics guy and he soldered on a in line 3.3 ohm resistor like stated above. It was not a surface mount style but thought it had plenty of room in the case to solder anything that fit the right ohm's. I went back home and tried it one last time as I really ran out of options. To my luck it worked and now my vehicle works perfectly! Thank you so much for posting this as I would of been in a terrible situation all over a 3 cent resistor.
If you zoom in on the resistor you mentioned above it had a light green tint to it but in the middle it was a different color like a dark blue or burnt look. Once the electric guy touched it with his solder iron it fell into two pieces. Just wanted to throw this information out here as I have been a long time surfer but don't post and usually keep to myself once I have figured out my problem. But this time I really wanted to thank you Ken Ngo for posting as I would of had to eat my own mistake for trying to fix a intermittent starting problem. My symptoms were the ignition would not recognize that the key had been inserted on the dash. Also once rotated into the 2nd and 3rd cycle it would not light up the dash lights or act like it could start the Glow plugs. If I would hold the key over in the cycle position it would randomly just kick in and fire up and if not we would open the door and close the door then pull key out and try again until it decided to work. Now after the fix to the connector and the resistor it works perfectly. After my experience it is not as straight forward as I initially thought and if you are ever going to attempt it know the potential risks as I almost ate all of them. Also take it to a professional if you do decide to try this as it takes a very small soldering iron with a even smaller tip to attach the legs of the pins correctly. Your post Ken Ngo was so helpful and I wanted to share the information as it saved me from a disaster.
There has been quite a few posts I've read concerning ML350 electronic ignition switches (EIS) P/N 203.545.06.08 and no communication with other modules on MB CAN when th smart key is inserted. I have found an issue with my recently purchased 2010 ML350 BlueTEC. The problem started when I drove to Florida last week and the car sat in the sun for about a week. When I first tried to start her, the smart key turned but no dash lights, seat & steering column memory function. I opened the doors and aired out the car for a few hours in the evening and to my surprise, it restarted fine. This problem reoccurred a few times throughout my trip and occurred again today back here in Quebec (temperature 66 F). I understand a few folks here on MBWorld had or have the same experience and had to have the dealer replace the EIS (sometimes after a dealer second key program) requiring new EIS, smart key(s) and coding/programming. I also know that "Hacks" to bypass the system are frowned upon by MB purists. I wasn't about to part with $1600 CDN for the dealer to replace said switch after the cost of towing the vehicle 50 Kilometers on a dolly(stuck in park).
So, here's what I've found and repairs some switches for those who are handy and have basic tools(sorry no photos). First, to get the ignition switch out does not require dashboard disassembly on an ML. You only need telescope the column all the way out & raise it. Second, pull the steering accordion (column dash filler) toward the steering wheel. Its held on by snap locks which release easily. Once the cover releases, pull it all the way up the column. Third, using a wide blade standard screw driver (plastic trim tool) rotate the ignition switch escutcheon (trim ring) counter clockwise until the EIS releases into the dash pad. Fourth, reach in through the opening at the base of the steering column where you previously removed the cover. Grab the EIS module and rotate it so you can observe the 2 harness connectors. Using needle nosed pliers, through the ignition mounting hole, disconnect the 2 plugs. Now you can pull the EIS module out though the steering column gap (after rotating the switch a little to clear). A quick diagnose is to place the EIS module in the freezer for 20 minutes then pull the 2 connectors through the dash panel mounting hole, reconnect them to the chilled switch outside the dash and retry start up sequence (this also can be performed by spraying the back of the module using electronic component freeze or canned air (CO2) held upside down. Another test would be warming the EIS with a hair drier. This will prove what I've found with said defective switches, cold solder joints. Fifth, With the EIS module on a bench (kitchen table) carefully pry the rear cover off the EIS module using feeler gauge blades placed under the lock tabs. Next, carefully pry the printed circuit board out of the EIS module by un-clipping the locking tabs. Make sure you pull the PC board straight out to avoid breaking the inside 3 terminal plug (white in color). What you may find is the white connector plug that connects the outer PC board has stayed connected to the inside terminals of the module (this has come un-soldered (fractured) from the main PC board causing your failure). The fact is, that this is technically a "cold solder" connection thus affected by heat/cold. Sixth, pull the white connector(3 pin) out of the module housing and re-solder it the the PC main board. While you're inside the module, using a Q-tip, clean the infra red receptor chip in the middle of the main PC Board located on the inside facing part of the PC board (its aligned with the clear plastic lens in the middle gear mechanism of the module (this repairs intermittent communication issues). I suspect this is the problem most EIS rebuilders face when reconditioning bad switches. You can retest the repaired switch with the 2 plugs still passed through the mounting hole in dash pad. Once repaired, reverse the disassembly process. The repair doesn't require new EIS coding or key programming. I also suspect this issue occurs more frequently in the warmer, dustier climates. Saves wallet bleeding and visit to your favorite MB dealer. Enjoy!
Followed the steps on my 2011 W164 and the eis is brand new now.
My advice is buy the eis removal tool from amazon its only 8$. First time doing it and i took it out in less that 5mins. Then opened the eis, saw that 3pin connector is broken took it to the local computer guy he soldered it.
Saved over 1000$ .
Thanks a lot
2010 ML350 EIS ignition switch problem confirmed and fixed
I'm not the driver for the 2010 ML350, my mother is, before she was ready to take it to a shop/dealer to have the vehicle serviced for the intermittent "turn key" issue I decided to have a crack at it after finding this thread. The issue was EXACTLY as described with the fault EXACTLY as found in earlier post being the broken solder joint on the 3 pin connector. It only costed me $30 for a soldering iron. I used a digital microscope I had around ($20 on amazon) to check the quality of the work and if pin/joint still wiggled freely. I followed up with a very small amount of hot glue around the base of the connector and solder joints to further reinforce the connector so it doesn't break again.
Thanks for having this thread it definitely save us a pretty penny or two.
Happy new year! Let's hope this one's the good one.
Long time reader of this forum, first time poster
I live in Canada and we just got hit by a super cold wave. My ML320 Bluetec wouldn't start after sitting two days in the cold. At first, the dash lights would turn on but flicker, and I would hear all the various electrical systems (AC blower, pumps, etc.) try to start repeatedly like twice per second, and the clock would spin continuously. The glow plug light would be on (as well as like... almost everything else, so I'm not sure that means anything). The car would not crank. If I waited long enough (because I thought maybe I just had to wait for the glow plugs to warm up), the system would indicate an SRS failure, and nothing more could be done.
I decided to charge the battery. The next day, all systems dead. Only the odometer panel lights up when I open the door, but nothing happens when I turn the key. Battery seems relatively healthy according to the charger. I still tried to unplug the battery and replug it, as I've seen that suggestion on another thread. Some of the electrical radio systems tried to reset, but nothing more.
I tried another MB car's key, and it warns that it's not a proper key, so I figured the EIS still works. However, I still decided to remove the EIS to check the PCB. Everything looks fine, the 3-pin connector is still on, everything looks clean, and the little light blue/green plate is still intact.
Happy new year! Let's hope this one's the good one.
Long time reader of this forum, first time poster
I live in Canada and we just got hit by a super cold wave. My ML320 Bluetec wouldn't start after sitting two days in the cold. At first, the dash lights would turn on but flicker, and I would hear all the various electrical systems (AC blower, pumps, etc.) try to start repeatedly like twice per second, and the clock would spin continuously. The glow plug light would be on (as well as like... almost everything else, so I'm not sure that means anything). The car would not crank. If I waited long enough (because I thought maybe I just had to wait for the glow plugs to warm up), the system would indicate an SRS failure, and nothing more could be done.
I decided to charge the battery. The next day, all systems dead. Only the odometer panel lights up when I open the door, but nothing happens when I turn the key. Battery seems relatively healthy according to the charger. I still tried to unplug the battery and replug it, as I've seen that suggestion on another thread. Some of the electrical radio systems tried to reset, but nothing more.
I tried another MB car's key, and it warns that it's not a proper key, so I figured the EIS still works. However, I still decided to remove the EIS to check the PCB. Everything looks fine, the 3-pin connector is still on, everything looks clean, and the little light blue/green plate is still intact.
What could be my issue?
Thank you everyone in advance!
Just a quick update in case someone stumbles upon this. I found my answer in the "Related Thread" below this one.
I cleaned everything I could on the EIS as well as the key fob head, and left it inside the key slot longer before turning it. Seems to have done the trick, as it just needed time to identify the key properly.
Wanted to give a HUGE shoutout to this thread, saved me $1000+. I have a 2011 ML350 4Matic that had some problems recognizing my key at times (due to warm weather). My father and I got the EIS module out with an EIS remover tool from Amazon ($8) and snapped off the back plastic piece right behind the steering column to get to the EIS module (the plastic piece that holds the cloth material around the steering column). Anyways, once we got the EIS taken apart, that 3 prong white connector was clean off. We did a quick solder job and BOOM….FIXED!!! Car registers instantly with my key now, I will report back in a few months. THANK YOU EVERYONE ABOVE.
Having similar issues with a recently purchased used 2006 ML350 3.5L V6 SUV 80k miles and wondering what b this group thinks:
1. My key fob starts the car but the lock/unlock fob buttons will only work right after the car is shut off for ~15 seconds until the vehicle goes to ‘sleep’ (after that the fob won’t lock/unlock even though the red light lights up when a button is clicked). I put new batteries in the fob and even bought a replacement fob from the dealer but still having the same issue. Anyone else have this issue? Could it be something with the EIS (poor signal…but only after the car fully shuts down / goes to sleep)? 2. Takes unusually long to start up the vehicle when turning the key. I hooked up directly to the battery under the passenger seat which tested fine. But then had the positive/negative ‘battery’ hookup under the hood checked which ‘failed’… could it be an issue with a wire that connects/signals between actual battery (under the seat) and the signal received under the hood?
Thoughts? Thx!
Question for CLK Group:
Its an old post, so hopefully you still respond to this forum. I had intermittent starting problems with my 09 ML350 as well. I removed the EIS module easily through the radio opening. However, its the same part number as the one you uploaded in your post., but when I took it apart, the circuit board has only one 7 pin connector on one side and two 6-pin connectors on the other side. They look secure and well soldered in place. I was wondering if you ever solved your issue in the long run, and just cleaning the lens on the infrared sensor was sufficient to solve the problem? I'm posting photos of my module exterior and both sides of the circuit board. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Originally Posted by CLK Group
Question for thumbdoctor, beachcruzer, and KiwiEd.
Have removed the PC board from the EIS module but cannot see the three pin connector referred to by thumbdoctor. The only connector from the PC board to the module is a seven pin one as shown in the attached pics. It is attached very well to the PC board.
Maybe because mine is a 2008? Mercedes module part number is A 1645451308.
Did find some fine debris on the clear plastic lens and cleaned it and the infra red receptor chip as per thumbdoctor's instructions. Maybe that is what has been causing my intermittent issues?
For what it's worth, out of the blue my 2009 ML 350 4matic wouldn't start/crank after driving around most of the day. Had it towed to MB. Sat there over the weekend. During that time, I read many diff posts of no start. Most stated they also did not get any lights when they turned the key but I did get all lights and my battery is good at 12.6 v. I went to dealer 3 days later and was prepared to take the EIS out and the tech was even giving me the tool to unscrew the EIS so I could then take it out thru the Comand portal that I was also going to remove. I told him my plan and he said he would help me just a bit for free and he grabbed his Fluke and out we went to the repair yard at MB. This guy spent 30 minutes with me (so very very kind!) checking various things while I turned the key. We also checked the fuses for starter and for EIS and they were good. At first he thought it might be the engine fuse box but then he took off the large engine cover and started poking a purple wire under the ECU (I think that's what it is) on the top of the engine. After making sure he had a good ground he then said that 100% I had a bad starter. Starter now replaced and vehicle never started so good. I guess sometimes it really is the thing that is staring you in the face.
There is one fault stored under EIS when scanning the car with an Autel MD808pro scanner, which is: “900516 Terminal 30 NOT PRESENT”
I followed thumb doctors instructions and my car had all of these symptoms, but sadly my white connector was intact.
I re-soldered it anyway so that it wouldn’t have to be done in the future, and put it all back together.
I replaced the main battery with a Varta one same as OE, because my old battery was getting to the end of its life anyway, and I also replaced the auxiliary battery while I was in there for good measure, with the corrects Mercedes OE item.
I have now noticed that my key (new battery fitted) does not flash a red LED though, and I’m pretty certain it used to in the past. So maybe it’s the key is the problem.
Does anyone else have a facelifted RHD ML350 CDI with a European key (no panic button) that can tell me whether theirs has the red LED on it when the buttons are pressed?
I have checked the infrared signal from the key with a camera and that is working, but the red LED is not present just above the lock button.
There is one fault stored under EIS when scanning the car with an Autel MD808pro scanner, which is: “900516 Terminal 30 NOT PRESENT”
I followed thumb doctors instructions and my car had all of these symptoms, but sadly my white connector was intact.
I re-soldered it anyway so that it wouldn’t have to be done in the future, and put it all back together.
I replaced the main battery with a Varta one same as OE, because my old battery was getting to the end of its life anyway, and I also replaced the auxiliary battery while I was in there for good measure, with the corrects Mercedes OE item.
I have now noticed that my key (new battery fitted) does not flash a red LED though, and I’m pretty certain it used to in the past. So maybe it’s the key is the problem.
Does anyone else have a facelifted RHD ML350 CDI with a European key (no panic button) that can tell me whether theirs has the red LED on it when the buttons are pressed?
I have checked the infrared signal from the key with a camera and that is working, but the red LED is not present just above the lock button.
Hopefully someone can answer this one for me.
Thanks in advance.
I had posted earlier in this thread about my 2009 ML 350, gas model that had an intermittent starting problem. After reading many posts, I pulled and examined the EIS which was a newer version and did not have the loose solder problems. It was really frustrating because the car started up perfectly well when it was cold and ran great. But once parked it wouldn't start with a warm engine and the radiator fan would come on full speed. I finally deduced it must be the ECM acting up because if the key or EIS was defective, it wouldn't be starting under any conditions. Further research showed that defective ECMs are common problem with Bosch ME9.7 modules that are mounted on top of the engine. The heat and engine vibration damages them and they need to be replaced. Just to confirm, I took the ML to the local Benz stealership who charged me $270 to verify that indeed the ECM was defective. Of course, they wanted $2000+ to replace it! So, I found a used ECM with the same part# on eBay for $125, then sent it off with my old ECM to a guy on eBay who cloned the old ECM to the "newer" used one for a mere $135. I had both of them back in 4 days, and as soon as I plugged the cloned used ECM into the ML, it started up on the first try and now always does so regardless of engine temperature or ambient temperature. Hopefully my experience will help others facing the same issue!
Boy it does sound like some gremlins there... there are wiser heads that mine here rq but for the sake of the comment my 2012 ML350 (160,000kms, last 70km by me) has had just one bulb (one of the lower front parkers) replaced only. Now it has had a catastrophic timing chain fail (almost killed my wife and myself on an Australia rural road towing a boat) that required a replacement engine... but that didn't impact the bulbs . I'm interested that your shop reckons W164s blow them all the time.
Boy it does sound like some gremlins there... there are wiser heads that mine here rq but for the sake of the comment my 2012 ML350 (160,000kms, last 70km by me) has had just one bulb (one of the lower front parkers) replaced only. Now it has had a catastrophic timing chain fail (almost killed my wife and myself on an Australia rural road towing a boat) that required a replacement engine... but that didn't impact the bulbs . I'm interested that your shop reckons W164s blow them all the time.
Is your car a diesel? Mine had a stretched chain when I bought it. It was quite obvious when starting it from cold as it would audibly slap around for a few seconds. The OM642 is notorious for it.
I resented having to do it, but it was an easy enough job to once I got into it.
sorry to hear that yours failed catastrophically. That can’t have been cheap.
Thanks SeanyF for your thoughts, appreciated. We were very, very lucky. I've had lots of great cars - Jaguar XJ6, BMW 5&7, Mercedes W140 S320 (great car) and being of an age where I wanted to tow my 5 metre alloy boat (tow weight under 1k) I was just about set to buy a new Hyundai Sante Fe or Isuzu (both very popular here in Australia) when my ML350 came up in a Mercedes yard as a "preferred vehicle" - full history, every extra, beautiful thing, 90,000 kms approx with servicing over and above requirements. Loved the car. Plenty of power, V6 diesel, cheap to run. Comes with a spacesaver spare tyre so I actually hunted around the country to find the same alloy. Eventually found one in Adelaide (capital city of South Australia) and had them send it to me. All good. Then my wife and I go on our approx 700km road trip to our holiday destination in another State (New South Wales). Sitting at 90kph at low revs, doing it easy, no chain rattle on start up, no warnings, no check engine light, no limp home mode, going up a short hill & bend with no room on the left (remember this is Australia), the engine suddenly stops. Dead. 155,000kms of Mercedes service history and I've lost everything. No power brakes. Little steering. The car is being pulled back by the boat, I only have one shot. In a millisecond, my wife (sitting in the left-hand passenger seat) puts your hand across me and says "go there" and points across the road. It's a narrow road on a bend with double lines which technically you can't cross. I point the car, it has enough momentum to carry across the road, up and down the ditch on the other side, between two white posts and I've managed to get the whole rig off the road in a cloud of dust. We were there for six hours in 37 degree heat and I ended up in hospital, but we were ok. Now there were no indications at all that this vehicle had any timing issues. I'm a car nut, would have picked it, Mercedes services never picked it. Spoke to Mercedes Australia, they were not interested at all. I was offered AUS$2,000 for the vehicle through a scrap yard. Instead, I found an engine that came out of an ever later vehicle with just 105ks on it. I saw the donor car. Bad panel damage but nil impact on the engine. So the yard charged me AUS$8,000 to swap engines and I said to my wife "the Benz is going. Any car that tries to kill you is finished." Problem is, this engine is much better. Pulls better, runs better. As a result, for the moment, I'm sticking with it. Long post I know, but there is a story here. It took me a while to get over the potential for both of us to lose our lives over this fail, but we're over it now and the dreams have stopped. Thanks again for your response to my post.
Thanks SeanyF for your thoughts, appreciated. We were very, very lucky. I've had lots of great cars - Jaguar XJ6, BMW 5&7, Mercedes W140 S320 (great car) and being of an age where I wanted to tow my 5 metre alloy boat (tow weight under 1k) I was just about set to buy a new Hyundai Sante Fe or Isuzu (both very popular here in Australia) when my ML350 came up in a Mercedes yard as a "preferred vehicle" - full history, every extra, beautiful thing, 90,000 kms approx with servicing over and above requirements. Loved the car. Plenty of power, V6 diesel, cheap to run. Comes with a spacesaver spare tyre so I actually hunted around the country to find the same alloy. Eventually found one in Adelaide (capital city of South Australia) and had them send it to me. All good. Then my wife and I go on our approx 700km road trip to our holiday destination in another State (New South Wales). Sitting at 90kph at low revs, doing it easy, no chain rattle on start up, no warnings, no check engine light, no limp home mode, going up a short hill & bend with no room on the left (remember this is Australia), the engine suddenly stops. Dead. 155,000kms of Mercedes service history and I've lost everything. No power brakes. Little steering. The car is being pulled back by the boat, I only have one shot. In a millisecond, my wife (sitting in the left-hand passenger seat) puts your hand across me and says "go there" and points across the road. It's a narrow road on a bend with double lines which technically you can't cross. I point the car, it has enough momentum to carry across the road, up and down the ditch on the other side, between two white posts and I've managed to get the whole rig off the road in a cloud of dust. We were there for six hours in 37 degree heat and I ended up in hospital, but we were ok. Now there were no indications at all that this vehicle had any timing issues. I'm a car nut, would have picked it, Mercedes services never picked it. Spoke to Mercedes Australia, they were not interested at all. I was offered AUS$2,000 for the vehicle through a scrap yard. Instead, I found an engine that came out of an ever later vehicle with just 105ks on it. I saw the donor car. Bad panel damage but nil impact on the engine. So the yard charged me AUS$8,000 to swap engines and I said to my wife "the Benz is going. Any car that tries to kill you is finished." Problem is, this engine is much better. Pulls better, runs better. As a result, for the moment, I'm sticking with it. Long post I know, but there is a story here. It took me a while to get over the potential for both of us to lose our lives over this fail, but we're over it now and the dreams have stopped. Thanks again for your response to my post.
wow that’s a hell of a story. Glad you guys got out ok!
a chain just snapping is crazy. I knew the chains were bad, but not that bad!
my timing was out like in the photo below. Made a huge difference when I replaced the chain.
I love my ML, but it is getting harder and harder to love with all these problems. I sold a Range Rover to get the Mercedes, because the rangey gave some trouble, but actually it was a far more reliable vehicle.
08-15-2020, 01:19 PM
EIS Problems 2009 ML 350
