My 2009 ML350 recently started on occasion not starting when the key was turned. I would insert the key, turn to the on position and none of the dash lights that would normally light up come on. Turn the key off and back on 2,3 5 times and eventually the lights would come on and the car would start. Then the other day of course my wife would drive it and get stranded at work. She tried back and forth for 20 minutes...I then arrived and tried another 20 or so before calling AAA. A flat bed tow truck arrives but we can't load the car because the wheels are turned and the car is in park, can't get it out of park without the ignition in the on position. I fool with the key back and forth another 10 minutes and it finally lights up and starts and we get it loaded up.
I have it towed to a Mercedes/euro specialty shop that I've been highly pleased with and trust they know what their doing. They've now had it 2 days and still not sure of the problem. They think it may be the ignition switch...but still testing.
A little background...I bought the car 2 yrs ago...when I test drove it, everything was fine. The next day I get a message saying that the driver's side headlight was out. It was still under warranty so I go to the dealer and they replace the bulb...all is good. Shortly thereafter I get the message that the passenger side headlight is out...dealer replaces the bulb. Shortly there after a parking light is out, replace bulb (I've now replaced more bulbs in 1 yr than in the previous 40!). I'm traveling and have a coyote run out in front of me at 80 mph...car ends up in the body shop for 4 weeks due to finding previously undiscovered damage and waiting on parts. Finally pick the vehicle up and the body shop notices a light out msg as they are bringing me the car. There was no frontal damage, only underneath but they replace the light. I get home and a few days later I have a tail light out. I pop out the bulb, looks to be in good condition so I replace it, light works. Couple of days later I start to receive an occasional msg that my key doesn't belong to vehicle. I could remove the key, reinsert and the msg goes away but about 30% of the time I still get the msg. Then the problem started described above.
My shop says that the msgs aren't related and that the ML has a history of going through lights. Says that the key msg and the non starting...MIGHT be related.
I've seen the problems I've described above reported in this and other forums but I've never seen anyone reporting a fix. I'm mainly concerned about the non-starting and the key does not belong to vehicle message.
Anyone???
I have it towed to a Mercedes/euro specialty shop that I've been highly pleased with and trust they know what their doing. They've now had it 2 days and still not sure of the problem. They think it may be the ignition switch...but still testing.
A little background...I bought the car 2 yrs ago...when I test drove it, everything was fine. The next day I get a message saying that the driver's side headlight was out. It was still under warranty so I go to the dealer and they replace the bulb...all is good. Shortly thereafter I get the message that the passenger side headlight is out...dealer replaces the bulb. Shortly there after a parking light is out, replace bulb (I've now replaced more bulbs in 1 yr than in the previous 40!). I'm traveling and have a coyote run out in front of me at 80 mph...car ends up in the body shop for 4 weeks due to finding previously undiscovered damage and waiting on parts. Finally pick the vehicle up and the body shop notices a light out msg as they are bringing me the car. There was no frontal damage, only underneath but they replace the light. I get home and a few days later I have a tail light out. I pop out the bulb, looks to be in good condition so I replace it, light works. Couple of days later I start to receive an occasional msg that my key doesn't belong to vehicle. I could remove the key, reinsert and the msg goes away but about 30% of the time I still get the msg. Then the problem started described above.
My shop says that the msgs aren't related and that the ML has a history of going through lights. Says that the key msg and the non starting...MIGHT be related.
I've seen the problems I've described above reported in this and other forums but I've never seen anyone reporting a fix. I'm mainly concerned about the non-starting and the key does not belong to vehicle message.
Anyone???
Popular Reply
thumbdoctor Mar 18, 2016 08:12 AM
Newbie
There has been quite a few posts I've read concerning ML350 electronic ignition switches (EIS) P/N 203.545.06.08 and no communication with other modules on MB CAN when th smart key is inserted. I have found an issue with my recently purchased 2010 ML350 BlueTEC. The problem started when I drove to Florida last week and the car sat in the sun for about a week. When I first tried to start her, the smart key turned but no dash lights, seat & steering column memory function. I opened the doors and aired out the car for a few hours in the evening and to my surprise, it restarted fine. This problem reoccurred a few times throughout my trip and occurred again today back here in Quebec (temperature 66 F). I understand a few folks here on MBWorld had or have the same experience and had to have the dealer replace the EIS (sometimes after a dealer second key program) requiring new EIS, smart key(s) and coding/programming. I also know that "Hacks" to bypass the system are frowned upon by MB purists. I wasn't about to part with $1600 CDN for the dealer to replace said switch after the cost of towing the vehicle 50 Kilometers on a dolly(stuck in park).
So, here's what I've found and repairs some switches for those who are handy and have basic tools(sorry no photos).
First, to get the ignition switch out does not require dashboard disassembly on an ML. You only need telescope the column all the way out & raise it.
Second, pull the steering accordion (column dash filler) toward the steering wheel. Its held on by snap locks which release easily. Once the cover releases, pull it all the way up the column.
Third, using a wide blade standard screw driver (plastic trim tool) rotate the ignition switch escutcheon (trim ring) counter clockwise until the EIS releases into the dash pad.
Fourth, reach in through the opening at the base of the steering column where you previously removed the cover. Grab the EIS module and rotate it so you can observe the 2 harness connectors. Using needle nosed pliers, through the ignition mounting hole, disconnect the 2 plugs. Now you can pull the EIS module out though the steering column gap (after rotating the switch a little to clear). A quick diagnose is to place the EIS module in the freezer for 20 minutes then pull the 2 connectors through the dash panel mounting hole, reconnect them to the chilled switch outside the dash and retry start up sequence (this also can be performed by spraying the back of the module using electronic component freeze or canned air (CO2) held upside down. Another test would be warming the EIS with a hair drier. This will prove what I've found with said defective switches, cold solder joints.
Fifth, With the EIS module on a bench (kitchen table) carefully pry the rear cover off the EIS module using feeler gauge blades placed under the lock tabs. Next, carefully pry the printed circuit board out of the EIS module by un-clipping the locking tabs. Make sure you pull the PC board straight out to avoid breaking the inside 3 terminal plug (white in color). What you may find is the white connector plug that connects the outer PC board has stayed connected to the inside terminals of the module (this has come un-soldered (fractured) from the main PC board causing your failure). The fact is, that this is technically a "cold solder" connection thus affected by heat/cold.
Sixth, pull the white connector(3 pin) out of the module housing and re-solder it the the PC main board. While you're inside the module, using a Q-tip, clean the infra red receptor chip in the middle of the main PC Board located on the inside facing part of the PC board (its aligned with the clear plastic lens in the middle gear mechanism of the module (this repairs intermittent communication issues). I suspect this is the problem most EIS rebuilders face when reconditioning bad switches. You can retest the repaired switch with the 2 plugs still passed through the mounting hole in dash pad. Once repaired, reverse the disassembly process. The repair doesn't require new EIS coding or key programming. I also suspect this issue occurs more frequently in the warmer, dustier climates. Saves wallet bleeding and visit to your favorite MB dealer. Enjoy!
So, here's what I've found and repairs some switches for those who are handy and have basic tools(sorry no photos).
First, to get the ignition switch out does not require dashboard disassembly on an ML. You only need telescope the column all the way out & raise it.
Second, pull the steering accordion (column dash filler) toward the steering wheel. Its held on by snap locks which release easily. Once the cover releases, pull it all the way up the column.
Third, using a wide blade standard screw driver (plastic trim tool) rotate the ignition switch escutcheon (trim ring) counter clockwise until the EIS releases into the dash pad.
Fourth, reach in through the opening at the base of the steering column where you previously removed the cover. Grab the EIS module and rotate it so you can observe the 2 harness connectors. Using needle nosed pliers, through the ignition mounting hole, disconnect the 2 plugs. Now you can pull the EIS module out though the steering column gap (after rotating the switch a little to clear). A quick diagnose is to place the EIS module in the freezer for 20 minutes then pull the 2 connectors through the dash panel mounting hole, reconnect them to the chilled switch outside the dash and retry start up sequence (this also can be performed by spraying the back of the module using electronic component freeze or canned air (CO2) held upside down. Another test would be warming the EIS with a hair drier. This will prove what I've found with said defective switches, cold solder joints.
Fifth, With the EIS module on a bench (kitchen table) carefully pry the rear cover off the EIS module using feeler gauge blades placed under the lock tabs. Next, carefully pry the printed circuit board out of the EIS module by un-clipping the locking tabs. Make sure you pull the PC board straight out to avoid breaking the inside 3 terminal plug (white in color). What you may find is the white connector plug that connects the outer PC board has stayed connected to the inside terminals of the module (this has come un-soldered (fractured) from the main PC board causing your failure). The fact is, that this is technically a "cold solder" connection thus affected by heat/cold.
Sixth, pull the white connector(3 pin) out of the module housing and re-solder it the the PC main board. While you're inside the module, using a Q-tip, clean the infra red receptor chip in the middle of the main PC Board located on the inside facing part of the PC board (its aligned with the clear plastic lens in the middle gear mechanism of the module (this repairs intermittent communication issues). I suspect this is the problem most EIS rebuilders face when reconditioning bad switches. You can retest the repaired switch with the 2 plugs still passed through the mounting hole in dash pad. Once repaired, reverse the disassembly process. The repair doesn't require new EIS coding or key programming. I also suspect this issue occurs more frequently in the warmer, dustier climates. Saves wallet bleeding and visit to your favorite MB dealer. Enjoy!
There is actually a bulletin about the EIS failing and causing the no start concern.
Junior Member
Your problem is the EIS Switch. There is no fix, you have to get a new one and it needs to be coded.
Quote:
They are saying it's either the key or the EIS...they wanted my second key to test. Unfortunately I only have 1 key. Originally Posted by Borko
Your problem is the EIS Switch. There is no fix, you have to get a new one and it needs to be coded.
They suggest I get another key to eliminate that possibility since it's the cheaper of the two to replace. Worst case I guess is that I end up with 2 keys which I've kinda been wanting anyway.
Does this sound reasonable or would you go EIS first?
Junior Member
It sounds reasonable somehow... Have ever dropped your key or have any damage to it? Do you have any problems with locking and unlocking? Try rolling down and up the windows using the key ( point the key to the drivers side handle outside of the car and hold unlock until the windows roll down. Holding the lock will roll them back up) If that works fine i have no reason to believe that the problem is in the key. Since I had this problem, i would go for the EIS. Hope I helped.
Member
The key has two independent transmitters. One for the door locks and one for the ignition. Can't remember but I think one is IR and the other is RF. Seems the transmitter for the ignition is more fragile than the one for the locks though.
Dropped my key once. Then I used it to open the door. Hopped in to start and no dice. Didn't turn over at all but it still worked the locks months later. Grabbed the second key and I was good to go
Dropped my key once. Then I used it to open the door. Hopped in to start and no dice. Didn't turn over at all but it still worked the locks months later. Grabbed the second key and I was good to go
Junior Member
Go for a new key , I had this problem with my s320 ?
Getting a new key today.
Kind of miffed on the hassle of doing so. Had to take my vehicle to the dealership to program the key. Fortunately when I picked my vehicle up at the shop where I had taken it, it started right up the first time with no issues. I feared I would need to have it towed. Of course this makes me leery about what it does after I get the new key. If it starts right up again then I won't know if it's "fixed" until some time passes or else I start seeing problems again.
One would think that MB would have some diagnostic tools that would tell them if a component was working correctly or not...I mean, either a key emits a signal or it doesn't...amiright??? How in the world do they do QA??? Same with the EIS, it has inputs and outputs...can't you test the outputs based on specific inputs??? I'm a software engineer and have to do this stuff everyday!
Kind of miffed on the hassle of doing so. Had to take my vehicle to the dealership to program the key. Fortunately when I picked my vehicle up at the shop where I had taken it, it started right up the first time with no issues. I feared I would need to have it towed. Of course this makes me leery about what it does after I get the new key. If it starts right up again then I won't know if it's "fixed" until some time passes or else I start seeing problems again.
One would think that MB would have some diagnostic tools that would tell them if a component was working correctly or not...I mean, either a key emits a signal or it doesn't...amiright??? How in the world do they do QA??? Same with the EIS, it has inputs and outputs...can't you test the outputs based on specific inputs??? I'm a software engineer and have to do this stuff everyday!
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Junior Member
can anyone tell me what this is part of from my 1999 ML430?...its flexable rubber and about 3/8 inch thick...it was found under the hood under the fan...
Junior Member
attachments didnt load on my previous post because they were already posted on another forum...here is the link...can anyone tell me what this is and is it a critical part...thanx
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...999-ml430.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...999-ml430.html
Newbie
Hi rqarnold,
I have a 2009 ML 280. Have exactly the same symptoms as you with lights blowing and the key message, 'Key does not belong to this vehicle' (for last 6 weeks) and cranking issue is daily, although it will start 2/3rd time. Mercedes have told me it MOSTLY LIKELY the EIS at £590 installed. I will be very interested to read about your outcome as spending £590 and not knowing 100% it will fix the problem is an issue for me.
I have a 2009 ML 280. Have exactly the same symptoms as you with lights blowing and the key message, 'Key does not belong to this vehicle' (for last 6 weeks) and cranking issue is daily, although it will start 2/3rd time. Mercedes have told me it MOSTLY LIKELY the EIS at £590 installed. I will be very interested to read about your outcome as spending £590 and not knowing 100% it will fix the problem is an issue for me.
A new EIS did the trick. Ended up costing $1016 and 10 days in the shop. Thankfully my shop provides free loaner cars.
Newbie
Hi rqarnold, Thanks for the feedback. I now feel comfortable to book my ML in for the EIS change. Many thanks
Newbie
rqarnold, reading the start of this thread it was if it was written by my own hand!!!
EXACTLY the same precursor symptoms with random bulb warnings, followed by spurious 'key does not belong______' warnings, closely followed by periods of deathly silence upon rotating ignition to 2nd posn.
Repeated attempts with key in different orientation was solving it temporarily until last week when it died completely. (Same symptoms with 2nd key fob).
One observation I've also made however is it doesn't like the heat of midday?! It's working fine in the early hours (I work shifts) but come lunchtime it always fails me. As with other posts here, the Merc specialist was unable to identify any issues however, it appears that when the battery is 'fully juiced' it seems to force through whatever the issue is?
This became apparent when putting a 'jump pack' onto the remote terminals under the bonnet whilst in the Merc Specialist. Also after giving a complete overnight charge. However, this is only temporary as it returns shortly thereafter. Having read this thread I'm content to proceed with an EIS replacement and rule out a 'knackered' battery (which was my initial suspicion despite no low voyage warnings during diagnosis).
My fear was a slow leak to earth creating the symptoms (bulbs and EIS issue) so I'd be interested to hear if you've had 'trouble free' motoring since EIS replacement - OR if the ML is still chewing light bulbs for a living??
Many thanks - Frustrated of Bristol.
EXACTLY the same precursor symptoms with random bulb warnings, followed by spurious 'key does not belong______' warnings, closely followed by periods of deathly silence upon rotating ignition to 2nd posn.
Repeated attempts with key in different orientation was solving it temporarily until last week when it died completely. (Same symptoms with 2nd key fob).
One observation I've also made however is it doesn't like the heat of midday?! It's working fine in the early hours (I work shifts) but come lunchtime it always fails me. As with other posts here, the Merc specialist was unable to identify any issues however, it appears that when the battery is 'fully juiced' it seems to force through whatever the issue is?
This became apparent when putting a 'jump pack' onto the remote terminals under the bonnet whilst in the Merc Specialist. Also after giving a complete overnight charge. However, this is only temporary as it returns shortly thereafter. Having read this thread I'm content to proceed with an EIS replacement and rule out a 'knackered' battery (which was my initial suspicion despite no low voyage warnings during diagnosis).
My fear was a slow leak to earth creating the symptoms (bulbs and EIS issue) so I'd be interested to hear if you've had 'trouble free' motoring since EIS replacement - OR if the ML is still chewing light bulbs for a living??
Many thanks - Frustrated of Bristol.
Newbie
There has been quite a few posts I've read concerning ML350 electronic ignition switches (EIS) P/N 203.545.06.08 and no communication with other modules on MB CAN when th smart key is inserted. I have found an issue with my recently purchased 2010 ML350 BlueTEC. The problem started when I drove to Florida last week and the car sat in the sun for about a week. When I first tried to start her, the smart key turned but no dash lights, seat & steering column memory function. I opened the doors and aired out the car for a few hours in the evening and to my surprise, it restarted fine. This problem reoccurred a few times throughout my trip and occurred again today back here in Quebec (temperature 66 F). I understand a few folks here on MBWorld had or have the same experience and had to have the dealer replace the EIS (sometimes after a dealer second key program) requiring new EIS, smart key(s) and coding/programming. I also know that "Hacks" to bypass the system are frowned upon by MB purists. I wasn't about to part with $1600 CDN for the dealer to replace said switch after the cost of towing the vehicle 50 Kilometers on a dolly(stuck in park).
So, here's what I've found and repairs some switches for those who are handy and have basic tools(sorry no photos).
First, to get the ignition switch out does not require dashboard disassembly on an ML. You only need telescope the column all the way out & raise it.
Second, pull the steering accordion (column dash filler) toward the steering wheel. Its held on by snap locks which release easily. Once the cover releases, pull it all the way up the column.
Third, using a wide blade standard screw driver (plastic trim tool) rotate the ignition switch escutcheon (trim ring) counter clockwise until the EIS releases into the dash pad.
Fourth, reach in through the opening at the base of the steering column where you previously removed the cover. Grab the EIS module and rotate it so you can observe the 2 harness connectors. Using needle nosed pliers, through the ignition mounting hole, disconnect the 2 plugs. Now you can pull the EIS module out though the steering column gap (after rotating the switch a little to clear). A quick diagnose is to place the EIS module in the freezer for 20 minutes then pull the 2 connectors through the dash panel mounting hole, reconnect them to the chilled switch outside the dash and retry start up sequence (this also can be performed by spraying the back of the module using electronic component freeze or canned air (CO2) held upside down. Another test would be warming the EIS with a hair drier. This will prove what I've found with said defective switches, cold solder joints.
Fifth, With the EIS module on a bench (kitchen table) carefully pry the rear cover off the EIS module using feeler gauge blades placed under the lock tabs. Next, carefully pry the printed circuit board out of the EIS module by un-clipping the locking tabs. Make sure you pull the PC board straight out to avoid breaking the inside 3 terminal plug (white in color). What you may find is the white connector plug that connects the outer PC board has stayed connected to the inside terminals of the module (this has come un-soldered (fractured) from the main PC board causing your failure). The fact is, that this is technically a "cold solder" connection thus affected by heat/cold.
Sixth, pull the white connector(3 pin) out of the module housing and re-solder it the the PC main board. While you're inside the module, using a Q-tip, clean the infra red receptor chip in the middle of the main PC Board located on the inside facing part of the PC board (its aligned with the clear plastic lens in the middle gear mechanism of the module (this repairs intermittent communication issues). I suspect this is the problem most EIS rebuilders face when reconditioning bad switches. You can retest the repaired switch with the 2 plugs still passed through the mounting hole in dash pad. Once repaired, reverse the disassembly process. The repair doesn't require new EIS coding or key programming. I also suspect this issue occurs more frequently in the warmer, dustier climates. Saves wallet bleeding and visit to your favorite MB dealer. Enjoy!
So, here's what I've found and repairs some switches for those who are handy and have basic tools(sorry no photos).
First, to get the ignition switch out does not require dashboard disassembly on an ML. You only need telescope the column all the way out & raise it.
Second, pull the steering accordion (column dash filler) toward the steering wheel. Its held on by snap locks which release easily. Once the cover releases, pull it all the way up the column.
Third, using a wide blade standard screw driver (plastic trim tool) rotate the ignition switch escutcheon (trim ring) counter clockwise until the EIS releases into the dash pad.
Fourth, reach in through the opening at the base of the steering column where you previously removed the cover. Grab the EIS module and rotate it so you can observe the 2 harness connectors. Using needle nosed pliers, through the ignition mounting hole, disconnect the 2 plugs. Now you can pull the EIS module out though the steering column gap (after rotating the switch a little to clear). A quick diagnose is to place the EIS module in the freezer for 20 minutes then pull the 2 connectors through the dash panel mounting hole, reconnect them to the chilled switch outside the dash and retry start up sequence (this also can be performed by spraying the back of the module using electronic component freeze or canned air (CO2) held upside down. Another test would be warming the EIS with a hair drier. This will prove what I've found with said defective switches, cold solder joints.
Fifth, With the EIS module on a bench (kitchen table) carefully pry the rear cover off the EIS module using feeler gauge blades placed under the lock tabs. Next, carefully pry the printed circuit board out of the EIS module by un-clipping the locking tabs. Make sure you pull the PC board straight out to avoid breaking the inside 3 terminal plug (white in color). What you may find is the white connector plug that connects the outer PC board has stayed connected to the inside terminals of the module (this has come un-soldered (fractured) from the main PC board causing your failure). The fact is, that this is technically a "cold solder" connection thus affected by heat/cold.
Sixth, pull the white connector(3 pin) out of the module housing and re-solder it the the PC main board. While you're inside the module, using a Q-tip, clean the infra red receptor chip in the middle of the main PC Board located on the inside facing part of the PC board (its aligned with the clear plastic lens in the middle gear mechanism of the module (this repairs intermittent communication issues). I suspect this is the problem most EIS rebuilders face when reconditioning bad switches. You can retest the repaired switch with the 2 plugs still passed through the mounting hole in dash pad. Once repaired, reverse the disassembly process. The repair doesn't require new EIS coding or key programming. I also suspect this issue occurs more frequently in the warmer, dustier climates. Saves wallet bleeding and visit to your favorite MB dealer. Enjoy!
Junior Member
I'm wondering if this could be my issue. We bought the car 9 days ago, got it home and it won't start again. Changed the battery and the key goes in the ignition, turns but no response. Changed the front sam as there was water damage to it but same thing, no dice. The radio works and the interior lights. Key still goes in a turns... Frustrated.
Quote:
Tell tale sign of the EIS is no dash warning lights when the key is turned.Originally Posted by tyduckycody
I'm wondering if this could be my issue. We bought the car 9 days ago, got it home and it won't start again. Changed the battery and the key goes in the ignition, turns but no response. Changed the front sam as there was water damage to it but same thing, no dice. The radio works and the interior lights. Key still goes in a turns... Frustrated.
Senior Member
this is great info to have, thanks for taking the time to write it all up
Newbie
Quote:
Agreed, EIS communicates with key then the CAN bus.Originally Posted by jkaetz
Tell tale sign of the EIS is no dash warning lights when the key is turned.
Newbie
Quote:
This is great info. I'm having this exact issue with my 2011 GL450 and the stealership wants $1100 to replace the EIS. Do you know if the GL (X164) has the same EIS as the ML (W164)?Originally Posted by thumbdoctor
Agreed, EIS communicates with key then the CAN bus.
First step is to verify that 2nd key has same issue.
Newbie
Quote:
Confirmed this to be the case already. Thank you MacOriginally Posted by MacVidMB-V8
First step is to verify that 2nd key has same issue.
Senior Member
beachcruzer if you repair your eis please keep us up to date on how it goes
Newbie
Quote:
Will do. Hope to tackle it this coming week. I have a friend that's extremely solid on the electronics front and I'm working to get some time with him to fix it. Worst case scenario is that we screw it up and tow it to the dealer to replace the EIS. Definitely worth a shot.Originally Posted by clvincent
beachcruzer if you repair your eis please keep us up to date on how it goes
