2010 ML w/ 90k miles...what to replace to restore "new"ish feel?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 33
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From: Georgia
2011 E350 Luxury
2010 ML w/ 90k miles...what to replace to restore "new"ish feel?
I have a 2010 ML350 4matic with appearance package, P2, lighting package, and it has been nearly trouble-free save a seatbelt latch error. I've had an '08 C350, '07 E350, '08 ML350, and a '10 E350 so I'm familiar with maintaining these wonderful beasts. As I quickly approach 90k miles (the highest mileage Benz I've ever had), I'd like to get all your opinions on what maintenance items, and in what order, you'd replace in order to restore the driving experience to as close to new as possible. While I know this isn't entirely possible, I'd like to do what I can to bring it back to as close to the new driving feel as I reasonably can.
It drives fine, but I'm beginning to experience a few more light clunks in the front end when turning and encountering small bumps. I've been attributing this to age and wear and tear.
What do you all think? Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance!
It drives fine, but I'm beginning to experience a few more light clunks in the front end when turning and encountering small bumps. I've been attributing this to age and wear and tear.
What do you all think? Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Australia
ML320
seatbelt latch error
I have a 2010 ML350 4matic with appearance package, P2, lighting package, and it has been nearly trouble-free save a seatbelt latch error. I've had an '08 C350, '07 E350, '08 ML350, and a '10 E350 so I'm familiar with maintaining these wonderful beasts. As I quickly approach 90k miles (the highest mileage Benz I've ever had), I'd like to get all your opinions on what maintenance items, and in what order, you'd replace in order to restore the driving experience to as close to new as possible. While I know this isn't entirely possible, I'd like to do what I can to bring it back to as close to the new driving feel as I reasonably can.
It drives fine, but I'm beginning to experience a few more light clunks in the front end when turning and encountering small bumps. I've been attributing this to age and wear and tear.
What do you all think? Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance!
It drives fine, but I'm beginning to experience a few more light clunks in the front end when turning and encountering small bumps. I've been attributing this to age and wear and tear.
What do you all think? Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Hi Khelms, I don't mean to hijack your thread but you mentioned a seatbelt latch error. I have experienced a couple of errors myself which seem to disappear on their own. What did you do to cure this?
Thanks, Pete.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 33
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From: Georgia
2011 E350 Luxury
My dealer wound up having to remove the driver's seat and replace the seatbelt latch assembly itself. An SRS code was triggering in the instrument cluster and the latch was the culprit. No problems since. I don't have any cost info since my extended warranty covered it. That was probably at 70k miles or so. Hope this helps!
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 23
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From: Australia
ML320
Thank you - seat belt
Thank you Khelms, my message has happened twice but after a bit of a 'jiggle' of the belt the message disappeared. I hoe it stays that way. My car has approx. 70k km's.
Back to your original thread - how to get that new-car feel?
The best I can come up with is to give your car a treat. A 'medical' check-up at your service dealer particularly addressing the suspension, oil-leaks (if any) etc then hand her over to a car detailer for a complete inside and outside polish and spruce up.
She should feel and look better after that.
Peter.
Back to your original thread - how to get that new-car feel?
The best I can come up with is to give your car a treat. A 'medical' check-up at your service dealer particularly addressing the suspension, oil-leaks (if any) etc then hand her over to a car detailer for a complete inside and outside polish and spruce up.
She should feel and look better after that.
Peter.
Last edited by Mercdz ML; May 10, 2015 at 12:34 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 43
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From: Epsom Downs, England
ML 320 W164
You mention Light clunks when "turning and encountering small bumps"..
This are classic symptoms of Anti-roll bar Mounting rubbers getting tired or split. The damage is not always obvious visually, but they are pretty cheap and accessible, so probably worth doing to see if that's a fix. If it doesn't fix your problem, it will at least improve the turn-in and general handling responsiveness..
This are classic symptoms of Anti-roll bar Mounting rubbers getting tired or split. The damage is not always obvious visually, but they are pretty cheap and accessible, so probably worth doing to see if that's a fix. If it doesn't fix your problem, it will at least improve the turn-in and general handling responsiveness..
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
2011 E350 Luxury
You mention Light clunks when "turning and encountering small bumps"..
This are classic symptoms of Anti-roll bar Mounting rubbers getting tired or split. The damage is not always obvious visually, but they are pretty cheap and accessible, so probably worth doing to see if that's a fix. If it doesn't fix your problem, it will at least improve the turn-in and general handling responsiveness..
This are classic symptoms of Anti-roll bar Mounting rubbers getting tired or split. The damage is not always obvious visually, but they are pretty cheap and accessible, so probably worth doing to see if that's a fix. If it doesn't fix your problem, it will at least improve the turn-in and general handling responsiveness..
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Epsom Downs, England
ML 320 W164
Probably not, unless they were really clapped..
In which case they should be renewed because they will allow more body-roll and compromise stability in crosswinds.
Knocks felt through the steering maybe point to play in the Steering rack or more likely track-rod ends.
Both are easy to check..
In which case they should be renewed because they will allow more body-roll and compromise stability in crosswinds.
Knocks felt through the steering maybe point to play in the Steering rack or more likely track-rod ends.
Both are easy to check..
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 33
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From: Georgia
2011 E350 Luxury
Thanks for all the helpful comments! Sounds like I should start with basic suspension components, like bushings, and go from there.
Now for my amateur, dumb question of the day...how many bushings are there and where are they located? Are they expensive to replace? I'm not very handy in that respect.
Thanks in advance!
Now for my amateur, dumb question of the day...how many bushings are there and where are they located? Are they expensive to replace? I'm not very handy in that respect.
Thanks in advance!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 33
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From: Georgia
2011 E350 Luxury
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
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13 GL350, 14 SL550
I bought my 07 with 100,000 miles and it now has 160,000 miles.
My truck was dealer maintained before I got it, and I can tell you that it drove like brand new when I got it @ 100k miles.
It rides exactly the same today.
I did replace a few sets of tires, one set of brakes, etc. But none of that would 'refresh' the vehicle.
The only things that I did which should have made a change would be:
Sway bar links (rear) - slight knocking noise over bumps, went away afterwards
Front struts - were leaking down overnight, replacements (Arnott) ride exactly the same as far as I can tell.
Rear air cells - same as front. No change/improvement other than no more leaks.
So I'd say as long as you have someone inspect for obvious broken or worn parts, you probably have at least 70,000 miles before you need to start worrying about restoring ride feel.
If everything is to factory spec (ball joints, etc.) and stays that way, I wouldn't touch a thing.
Most important things is as soon as your struts or air cells start to leak, replace both front or both rear right away with Arnott replacements. They'll cause the pump to burn out and/or you could get stranded with a flat strut.
I suspect you'll be replacing the same stuff I did between now (90k) and 160k miles.
My truck was dealer maintained before I got it, and I can tell you that it drove like brand new when I got it @ 100k miles.
It rides exactly the same today.
I did replace a few sets of tires, one set of brakes, etc. But none of that would 'refresh' the vehicle.
The only things that I did which should have made a change would be:
Sway bar links (rear) - slight knocking noise over bumps, went away afterwards
Front struts - were leaking down overnight, replacements (Arnott) ride exactly the same as far as I can tell.
Rear air cells - same as front. No change/improvement other than no more leaks.
So I'd say as long as you have someone inspect for obvious broken or worn parts, you probably have at least 70,000 miles before you need to start worrying about restoring ride feel.
If everything is to factory spec (ball joints, etc.) and stays that way, I wouldn't touch a thing.
Most important things is as soon as your struts or air cells start to leak, replace both front or both rear right away with Arnott replacements. They'll cause the pump to burn out and/or you could get stranded with a flat strut.
I suspect you'll be replacing the same stuff I did between now (90k) and 160k miles.
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Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 15
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2009 MB ML550, 2021 Tesla Model 3 SR+
Everybody gave a good list of things to do mechanically to make your ML 'feel new'. I'll take a stab at some cosmetic bits...
When you sit in the driver's seat, it'll make a difference if you replace all the interior switches that are worn or lost their shine. The ones on the dash, doors, steering wheel etc. You can go as far as replacing the center dash panel and the steering wheel itself depending on how worn they look and the cost.
Also consider the beating the leather on the driver's seat takes. If there is a way to make it supple again and lose all the blemishes, then it'll be a good welcome sign when you open the door.
When you sit in the driver's seat, it'll make a difference if you replace all the interior switches that are worn or lost their shine. The ones on the dash, doors, steering wheel etc. You can go as far as replacing the center dash panel and the steering wheel itself depending on how worn they look and the cost.
Also consider the beating the leather on the driver's seat takes. If there is a way to make it supple again and lose all the blemishes, then it'll be a good welcome sign when you open the door.
