Do I need a new ECM?
My check engine light came on and I got the following codes:
0228 - M16/6 (Throttle valve actuator) Throttle valve jamming (iced up) P0638
1337 - Alternator serial interface
0217 - Throttle Valve stiff P2176
0569 - G3/3 (left O2 sensor before TWC KAT) Voltage is too high P2240
So I got a new alternator, a new throttle valve and 4 new O2 sensors. Cleared the codes, reset the ECU and the codes still appear. Other weird things are happening - one headlight turns off when I turn; dashboard says number plate light is blown, but it's not; same thing with park light; auto side mirror sometimes works.
Mechanic says that ECU is bad. Read in this forum (SunnyRayToronto sounds very knowledgeable!) that ECU's don't go bad like that and it may be something else. Car runs normally.
Could it be that I have a bad ECU? or do I just have several problems... will CRC contact cleaner work?
My check engine light came on and I got the following codes:
0228 - M16/6 (Throttle valve actuator) Throttle valve jamming (iced up) P0638
1337 - Alternator serial interface
0217 - Throttle Valve stiff P2176
0569 - G3/3 (left O2 sensor before TWC KAT) Voltage is too high P2240
So I got a new alternator, a new throttle valve and 4 new O2 sensors. Cleared the codes, reset the ECU and the codes still appear. Other weird things are happening - one headlight turns off when I turn; dashboard says number plate light is blown, but it's not; same thing with park light; auto side mirror sometimes works.
Mechanic says that ECU is bad. Read in this forum (SunnyRayToronto sounds very knowledgeable!) that ECU's don't go bad like that and it may be something else. Car runs normally.
Could it be that I have a bad ECU? or do I just have several problems... will CRC contact cleaner work?

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My check engine light came on and I got the following codes:
0228 - M16/6 (Throttle valve actuator) Throttle valve jamming (iced up) P0638
1337 - Alternator serial interface
0217 - Throttle Valve stiff P2176
0569 - G3/3 (left O2 sensor before TWC KAT) Voltage is too high P2240
So I got a new alternator, a new throttle valve and 4 new O2 sensors. Cleared the codes, reset the ECU and the codes still appear. Other weird things are happening - one headlight turns off when I turn; dashboard says number plate light is blown, but it's not; same thing with park light; auto side mirror sometimes works.
Mechanic says that ECU is bad. Read in this forum (SunnyRayToronto sounds very knowledgeable!) that ECU's don't go bad like that and it may be something else. Car runs normally.
Could it be that I have a bad ECU? or do I just have several problems... will CRC contact cleaner work?

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My check engine light came on and I got the following codes:
0228 - M16/6 (Throttle valve actuator) Throttle valve jamming (iced up) P0638
1337 - Alternator serial interface
0217 - Throttle Valve stiff P2176
0569 - G3/3 (left O2 sensor before TWC KAT) Voltage is too high P2240
So I got a new alternator, a new throttle valve and 4 new O2 sensors. Cleared the codes, reset the ECU and the codes still appear. Other weird things are happening - one headlight turns off when I turn; dashboard says number plate light is blown, but it's not; same thing with park light; auto side mirror sometimes works.
Mechanic says that ECU is bad. Read in this forum (SunnyRayToronto sounds very knowledgeable!) that ECU's don't go bad like that and it may be something else. Car runs normally.
Could it be that I have a bad ECU? or do I just have several problems... will CRC contact cleaner work?

I also have a BenzNinja subscription, so I contacted him and was instructed to buy a flashed ECU. The ML550 ECU part number is 273 153 13 91, so I found one on Ebay (from autohubshop) that cross referenced to that part number. They fedexed a flashed ECU, 273 153 66 91. Got on a web call with him, he coded the new unit with data from the old unit, matched the VIN, and Boom, runs perfectly and no error codes on the test drive. I just had to swap the new ECU in for the old ECU, two no-tool connectors, easy peasy.
The take-home is that it's nice to be able to see the set of error codes and try to reset them, but there's no specific code that says, 'your ECU is toast'. AND there's no substitute for a Pro like BenzNinja being able to code a flashed ECU to your car car in 30 minutes in your driveway. I don't want to know what a new ECU plus re-coding at the dealership would cost- $1500? $2K? The flashed ECU was $500 and I'm 3+ years into my BenzNinja subscription with multiple uses and lots of great help. No affiliation, just a (very) satisfied customer.











