Rougher than normal ride on w164 - shocks bad?
But can't a shock go bad the other way as well - that it doesn't make the car bouncy, but the suspension overly hard?
I am considering a 2010 ML350 with 153k miles - not freeway miles, but all driven in Los Angeles.
I felt that particularly the front passenger seat feels every little nook and cranny on the road. The drivers seat feels less.
Could it be that the front right strut is bad?
How long do shocks/struts last before they need replacement, and which is the best brand to give a smooth suspension?
Thanks!
But can't a shock go bad the other way as well - that it doesn't make the car bouncy, but the suspension overly hard?
I am considering a 2010 ML350 with 153k miles - not freeway miles, but all driven in Los Angeles.
I felt that particularly the front passenger seat feels every little nook and cranny on the road. The drivers seat feels less.
Could it be that the front right strut is bad?
How long do shocks/struts last before they need replacement, and which is the best brand to give a smooth suspension?
Thanks!
This isn't yet my car - but I intend to buy it. It's only one year away from your own 2011 ML350!
It's particularly the passenger front right seat that gets the hardest ride.
The shocks don't leak. The suspension passed the pre-purchase inspection, but I called the mechanic later with my concerns over the ride, especially stating the fact that the ride is rougher on one side of the car than on the other.
Looks like shocks can also go bad if they don't leak? Do they get "stuck" over time or not move freely?
I read one online report where an F150 driver always replaced the shocks when the ride started to get rough and that cured the issue.
Which shocks would you recommend for a great ride?
Yes shocks can fail without outwardly leaking, definitely. I wouldn't be surprised if the shock is stuck because it failed internally.
Separately I would say check the air pressure on the tires. If they are over inflated that can cause a very harsh ride.
Yes shocks can fail without outwardly leaking, definitely. I wouldn't be surprised if the shock is stuck because it failed internally.
Separately I would say check the air pressure on the tires. If they are over inflated that can cause a very harsh ride.
Do you know the best brand for shocks - or should I go OEM with Bilstein?
In regards to tire pressure:
He bought new tires (Dunlops - which are not that great of a brand), and tire shops for some unimaginable reason always put too much air into them.
Anyway, he's currently trying to pay off his lien, and I have to wait until he has done so and only then can buy the car.
Last edited by Benzdom; May 25, 2017 at 07:55 PM.
Same applies to the bushes, control arms etc. etc.
If a car has done over 100k miles and is on its original suspension, brake discs, clutch etc then common sense would suggest budgeting for replacing these items as and when they fail.
Do you know the best brand for shocks - or should I go OEM with Bilstein?
In regards to tire pressure:
He bought new tires (Dunlops - which are not that great of a brand), and tire shops for some unimaginable reason always put too much air into them.
Anyway, he's currently trying to pay off his lien, and I have to wait until he has done so and only then can buy the car.
I would plan on replacing at least the front two shocks to cure your ride troubles.
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I'm still not the owner of the car because the current owner fights to pay his lien back to get the title to actually be able to sell the car.
I have already shifted focus on doing a first rate paint job on the damaged rear bumper to fixing the suspension and maybe doing a paint job that doesn't ask for removing the bumper but still looks OK.
I have already scheduled a detailed review of the suspension to see what else might be bad to give such a rough ride.
Other than that the car has been treated with respect, and the interior looks surprisingly good for a car of that mileage.
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