Dashboard lights flickering and speedo clocks on
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
From: Sofia, Bulgaria
2011 W212 E350CDI Blueefficiency
OK, a little update.
There is no drain of the battery. Fuses are ok, when the car goes to sleep there is only "0" when checked.
Yeserday i had to drove 2 treks of 220km(137miles) each. After the first-one there was no blinking, no dashboard litup. After the second trek - the same until this morninig - no cluster lights blinking , no clocks and dashboard lit up.
I will check the car tonight again, when i go back from work.
Can it be a AUX battery problem? In fact after a few kms drive this problem with the blinking and the dashboard disappeared, but in a few hours the problem starts again. Can it be a faulty AUX battery that drains slowly the main battery and that to be a some kind of -"Check me!" signals from the car? Or some kind of rear or front SAM modules?
There is no drain of the battery. Fuses are ok, when the car goes to sleep there is only "0" when checked.
Yeserday i had to drove 2 treks of 220km(137miles) each. After the first-one there was no blinking, no dashboard litup. After the second trek - the same until this morninig - no cluster lights blinking , no clocks and dashboard lit up.
I will check the car tonight again, when i go back from work.
Can it be a AUX battery problem? In fact after a few kms drive this problem with the blinking and the dashboard disappeared, but in a few hours the problem starts again. Can it be a faulty AUX battery that drains slowly the main battery and that to be a some kind of -"Check me!" signals from the car? Or some kind of rear or front SAM modules?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
From: Sofia, Bulgaria
2011 W212 E350CDI Blueefficiency
I mean that there is no problem in the morning. I left the car in the garage so when i come back from work i will see is there a problem.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
From: Sofia, Bulgaria
2011 W212 E350CDI Blueefficiency
When i drive the car maybe the AUX get full, and some time after the ignition is off the AUX battery strats slowly to drain the main battery. And then makes this problem with the dashboard and the cluster lights. Maybe... i don't know for now.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Well it's easy enough to check. After the car has been sitting a while, access the aux. battery and remove the two wires and check the voltage directly from the two pins on the batt.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
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Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 219
Likes: 24
From: UK
ML420 W164 (2009)
You are joking! That picture has the seat and carpet removed.
To get at the aux battery. You have to tilt and move the seat as far forwards as possible. Drop the headrest down first.
Unless someone has accessed the battery previously. Then you need to cut the carpet to access the compartment. You need to remove the heater duct pipe and the plastic cover over the battery.
Remove the main battery then you can access the aux battery, after unbolting the single bolt for its cage.
To get at the aux battery. You have to tilt and move the seat as far forwards as possible. Drop the headrest down first.
Unless someone has accessed the battery previously. Then you need to cut the carpet to access the compartment. You need to remove the heater duct pipe and the plastic cover over the battery.
Remove the main battery then you can access the aux battery, after unbolting the single bolt for its cage.
Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 219
Likes: 24
From: UK
ML420 W164 (2009)
Oh, get a proper Mercedes battery, not some ebay nasty!
Try a new aux battery first, the main battery too, if there's any doubt about it. All these electrical systems are very much voltage critical.
I have to say that these type of symptoms very much point to a SAM issue though.
If the problem persists after changing the battery(s). You need a competent guy on a star machine.
Try a new aux battery first, the main battery too, if there's any doubt about it. All these electrical systems are very much voltage critical.
I have to say that these type of symptoms very much point to a SAM issue though.
If the problem persists after changing the battery(s). You need a competent guy on a star machine.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 765
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
You are joking! That picture has the seat and carpet removed.
To get at the aux battery. You have to tilt and move the seat as far forwards as possible. Drop the headrest down first.
Unless someone has accessed the battery previously. Then you need to cut the carpet to access the compartment. You need to remove the heater duct pipe and the plastic cover over the battery.
Remove the main battery then you can access the aux battery, after unbolting the single bolt for its cage.
To get at the aux battery. You have to tilt and move the seat as far forwards as possible. Drop the headrest down first.
Unless someone has accessed the battery previously. Then you need to cut the carpet to access the compartment. You need to remove the heater duct pipe and the plastic cover over the battery.
Remove the main battery then you can access the aux battery, after unbolting the single bolt for its cage.
The whole point of this exercise was to see if the aux. battery was being drained and test it before buying one unnecessarily.
Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 219
Likes: 24
From: UK
ML420 W164 (2009)
Well, if you eliminate battery issues, that's the usual next step.
Check out this video from a crazy Russian guy!
Pull the main battery and see if there's any evidence of water having got in. Rust on the bottom of the cavity etc.
Check out this video from a crazy Russian guy!
Pull the main battery and see if there's any evidence of water having got in. Rust on the bottom of the cavity etc.
Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 219
Likes: 24
From: UK
ML420 W164 (2009)
I just love his repair technique!
Spray it with a liberal dose of WD40 then attack it with a toothbrush. Awesome! I can't imagine it's a recognised practice at a MB dealership.
I wonder how many $000,s could have been saved over the years?
Anyway, good luck and fingers crossed.
One thing I do.... You know those little sachets of Silica Gel that you get in the box with new goods? I stuff them in all of the cavities of my ML. Especially around the rear SAM area and under the trunk spare wheel cavity. There's that many ways for water to get in.
Spray it with a liberal dose of WD40 then attack it with a toothbrush. Awesome! I can't imagine it's a recognised practice at a MB dealership.
I wonder how many $000,s could have been saved over the years?
Anyway, good luck and fingers crossed.
One thing I do.... You know those little sachets of Silica Gel that you get in the box with new goods? I stuff them in all of the cavities of my ML. Especially around the rear SAM area and under the trunk spare wheel cavity. There's that many ways for water to get in.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
From: Sofia, Bulgaria
2011 W212 E350CDI Blueefficiency
I will try some of those sachets as well Well the mainboard was in relatively good condition, that's why he can spray with WD40 and do the brush job 
Well the mainboard was in relatively good condition, that's why he can spray with WD40 and do the brush job
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
From: Sofia, Bulgaria
2011 W212 E350CDI Blueefficiency
Well a little update : until now it appears that the problem is/was combine between AUX battery and rear SAM. Rear SAM, as usual, water on the mainboard.
I will wait furthur more days to confirm.
I will wait furthur more days to confirm.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
From: Sofia, Bulgaria
2011 W212 E350CDI Blueefficiency
Update :
Well - the problem is activated when the car is wet due to drive in rain. The rear SAM module was cleaned and protected. After the last rain, the dashboard start flickering again; rear SAM is dry. I found water under the Harmon/Cardon compartment on the left side of the trunk. The wires was wet. I don't know if the sunroof is leaking too.. Where are the drain hoses of the sunroof?
Also the rear tailgate connector was replaced.
Now i will start the search from the Front-to-back of the car.
Can someone provide me a scheme of the cables that goes to the instrument cluster itself? I know it's only 1 cable, but the pins are connected to some other modules and parts to the car. I want to know where this pins are going and to start search the problem to those places (CAN bus connector, All Activity Module, etc..)
Well - the problem is activated when the car is wet due to drive in rain. The rear SAM module was cleaned and protected. After the last rain, the dashboard start flickering again; rear SAM is dry. I found water under the Harmon/Cardon compartment on the left side of the trunk. The wires was wet. I don't know if the sunroof is leaking too.. Where are the drain hoses of the sunroof?
Also the rear tailgate connector was replaced.
Now i will start the search from the Front-to-back of the car.
Can someone provide me a scheme of the cables that goes to the instrument cluster itself? I know it's only 1 cable, but the pins are connected to some other modules and parts to the car. I want to know where this pins are going and to start search the problem to those places (CAN bus connector, All Activity Module, etc..)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
From: Sofia, Bulgaria
2011 W212 E350CDI Blueefficiency
Thanks for the advice.
The tail lamp seals are changed already, i forgot to mention. The problem is elsewhere maybe.
That's why i need the cluster light scheme of the cables - where they go to wichm module they are connected. :/
The tail lamp seals are changed already, i forgot to mention. The problem is elsewhere maybe.
That's why i need the cluster light scheme of the cables - where they go to wichm module they are connected. :/
