Rough Idle - MAF issues
I purchased a basketcase 2006 ML350.
I checked the engine through the Camshaft Position Sensor and it all lines up.
Here's the issue; the car idles rough and throws the following codes:
Code Text
0629 Misfiring (P0300)
0645 Misfiring of cylinder 6 : Damages TWC (P0306)
0637 Misfiring of cylinder 4 : Damages TWC (P0304)
0653 Misfiring of cylinder 5 : Damages TWC (P0305)
Once I pull the MAF plug, the car idles nicely but throws MAF error codes (obviously).
I purchased a brand new MAF (Bosch) from amazon and the codes above noted above re-appear. Also, I tried a known good MAF and same errors reappear.
Alternatively, I
1) swapped the coils from Bank 1 to Bank 2;
2) re-gap'ed the spark plugs to 31mm (the plugs looked good, weren't fouled but all electrodes were pretty worn down and the gap on all plugs were approx. 65mm.
I think that the issue is MAF related, anybody have any ideas and / or experienced something similar?
Thanks in advance.

I purchased a basketcase 2006 ML350.
I checked the engine through the Camshaft Position Sensor and it all lines up.
Here's the issue; the car idles rough and throws the following codes:
Code Text
0629 Misfiring (P0300)
0645 Misfiring of cylinder 6 : Damages TWC (P0306)
0637 Misfiring of cylinder 4 : Damages TWC (P0304)
0653 Misfiring of cylinder 5 : Damages TWC (P0305)
Once I pull the MAF plug, the car idles nicely but throws MAF error codes (obviously).
I purchased a brand new MAF (Bosch) from amazon and the codes above noted above re-appear. Also, I tried a known good MAF and same errors reappear.
Alternatively, I
1) swapped the coils from Bank 1 to Bank 2;
2) re-gap'ed the spark plugs to 31mm (the plugs looked good, weren't fouled but all electrodes were pretty worn down and the gap on all plugs were approx. 65mm.
I think that the issue is MAF related, anybody have any ideas and / or experienced something similar?
Thanks in advance.
edwin, when there are misfire codes on all cylinders on the same bank, it cannot be a MAF issue. A faulty MAF would store its own code and would affect both banks.
If the above codes are the only ones stored, possibilities are : vacuum leak at the Intake Manifold (Left side), fuel leak at left side fuel injectors, clogged CAT convertor on left side causing back pressure, faulty spark plug leads.
I suggest buying spark plugs for both banks, but only replace those on the left side and see what occurs.
If not, spray Brake Parts Cleaner along the left side seam of the intake and see if RPMs increase. Do the same for injectors.
If not, buy an Exhaust Back Pressure Gauge and remove the O2 sensor before the CAT and install the gauge in its place. Start eng. and at idle, check gauge reading. Any reading above ZERO indicates a blockage. Then do the same at 2,500 RPMs.
When I purchased the car, in addition to the codes mentioned above, it had the following Stored Codes (which have not reappeared):
Code Text
2091 The mixture in the right cylinder bank is too lean when idling.
2095 The misture in the left cylinder bank is too lean when idling.
1425 Wheel speed signal is implausible.
I'm going to perform the following in their order and report back my findings:
1.:
Also, to confirm, the error codes were drawn from a Xentry / DAS.
Greatly appreciate it!
1.:
2.:
3.: No increase in RPMs.
Thereafter, I turned off the engine and I once again unplugged the MAF. The car idled well and I decided to do a little spirited drive and the engine worked really well during the drive.
Regarding test #4, I'll receive the tester tomorrow but if you have any further ideas, please do share!
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edwin, I'm running out of ideas but is this the MAF part number that you bought? Where did you buy it from and how much did you pay for it?
Have you checked all the gaskets and hoses near and around the MAF ?
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Bosch part number is 0280218190. This is a picture of the box:
I will run the exhaust back pressure test tonight but given that the engine runs fine with the MAF unplugged, I am inclined to think that this is not a clogged-cat scenario. Thoughts?
Could this be an issue with the O2 sensors, is there a way to test them?
Thanks again!
If there was an O2 sensor problem, there would be codes set, and there are none.
Removing the left O2 sensor for the exhaust back pressure test might be a little difficult. Hold off on this until the very end.
Please check all vacuum hoses.
LEFT BANK:
RIGHT BANK:
The air flaps / swirl flaps!!!
Unfortunately, I do not have pliers which are long enough to test tonight.
What should I use to make sure that the actuator arms stay in place?
If anyone is interested in a very informative video:
I then proceeded to remove the air intake manifold and this is what I found:
The broken swirl flap is located on the side of bank 1.... I understand that this controls the "short runner", "long runner" for Bank 2, is this correct?
Think I found the culprit to my misfires?
Last edited by edwin.dario; Jun 6, 2018 at 10:30 PM.
So I finally had some time to install my rebuilt intake manifold:

BUT...... I broke the tabs on the connector going to the throttle body:

The connector slides out and I could not find a way to fit a zip tie.... does anyone have any recommendations?
Many thanks!

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ng/2105403681/

Last edited by flybd5; Jun 21, 2018 at 03:47 AM.

Thanks, I'll give it a try!


