When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
MIL light came on with P2459 codes.
Took it into my local MB service guy who said I needed a new DPF filter for $3250....
Instead I removed it and then took the DPF and had it baked and cleaned. Unfortunately I still have the code. I also still have poor performance and torque, but im not in a "limp" mode.
2010 ML 350 Bluetec 165k mi
No gunk around the injectors,
New air fitlers,
Fuel filter 10k ago
No exhaust leaks that I could feel.
No black smoke
Smells like exhaust when idling, but thats probably the crappy connection on the maf and turbo.
While accelerating 100% Throttle the max differential I got was 10 psi. after cleaning
Im debating to remove the DPF and tune or go to the dealer for their 205.00 diagnostic...
Last edited by Anthony Porta; Jul 30, 2018 at 06:25 PM.
So its possible that it was a noX sensor issue. According to a MB tech friend I know. I reset the NoX sensors and ill see if the MIL returns. Thus far the performance feels better after the reset
MB codes are 111500 The regeneration frequency of the diesel particulate filter is not ok
111600 The regeneration of the diesel particulate was aborted.
MB codes are 111500 The regeneration frequency of the diesel particulate filter is not ok
111600 The regeneration of the diesel particulate was aborted.
Did you ever solve this problem. I'm dealing with the same thing now.
Thanks!
Well, its still smoking, but I did find that i had an injector that was worn out. I probably have more than 1 and other issues, but this test is worth trying. https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...-injector.html
It might get you working again. I can tell you its unlikely to be the dpf, something else is causing the issue.
No other issues right now. It started with a limp mode with no engine light. It was due for a full service and the oil cooler seals were leaking. So I did the oil cooler and full service, new swirl motor, new exhaust back pressure sensor (not the dpf differential sensor that came later..) and put it all back together. The intake manifold was really sludged up so that got fully cleaned. After putting it back together the limp with no CEL was back and after some research I replaced the dpf differential pressure sensor. this cured the limp mode but now I have the regen fail codes and random exhaust back pressure implausible code that I don't think is accurate. I just replaced the battery because it was getting weak (resting voltage of 11.8 and slow crank). It seems it is trying to regen almost all the time, i can hear the intake throttle plate is open and it pings (i know its not really pinging just sounds like that or sounds like a cold diesel rattle) on power more often than not. I actually think the next thing i'm going to do is take the dpf off and wash it out with the pressure washer.
I really wish MB would give us access to what the numbers should be for dpf differential pressure and exhaust back pressure, and any other sensor acceptable ranges for the emission system. it would sure help to diagnose the problems.
Not sure where you came out on this... I've been messing with this thing to point if insanity ready to drive to Canada to get the whole emissions deleted...
Drilled 2 holes front and back and hot pressure washed DPF then plugged with big bolts...
No good
Thought injector issues.. No good
Mercedes diagnostic at dealer was whole thing redone at 8 grand.. LOL
Found one part of a forum and did the 39 dollar pressure sensor and now out of limp mode (Thank God)...
Everything seems great now but still getting the DPF plugged with Soot code and the Reductant pressure to low code... Wondering about that post of an emulator 6 wire thing to just eliminate all this stuff that will go bad at some point...
Any luck?
Advice? This got me out of limp Mode which was the worst... And of course my insistence to fix everything which draws this out so long... LOL
I have only just joined this forum and, as you can guess, because I have a problem with my DPF.
I had a couple of broken hoses that led to clogging of the DPF. The car being under dealer warranty, most of the expenses were covered and the DPF was also apparently cleaned. That was 2 months ago and after fixing all the hoses, the EML light is still on.
An indie garage tells me this is because it took the dealer a really long time to find and fix the issue and the DPF is now again clogged. He is also telling me to change the DPF as its restricted.
I am not convinced that it needs to be changed.
I have read that when the DPF is clogged the car goes in limp mode or does not have full power. Is there a way to measure that? It seems like my car is not in limp mode because I "think" the acceleration is fine and the rpm easily crosses 3000 when I push the pedal. But, this is my first diesel and I really dont know if the acceleration is slower because its a diesel or because its limping.
Is there a way to clean DPF like forced regen or fuel additives? Do they work? Is there a way to tell if the EGR Valve needs cleaning? Is it easy to remove and clean?
No other issues right now. It started with a limp mode with no engine light. It was due for a full service and the oil cooler seals were leaking. So I did the oil cooler and full service, new swirl motor, new exhaust back pressure sensor (not the dpf differential sensor that came later..) and put it all back together. The intake manifold was really sludged up so that got fully cleaned. After putting it back together the limp with no CEL was back and after some research I replaced the dpf differential pressure sensor. this cured the limp mode but now I have the regen fail codes and random exhaust back pressure implausible code that I don't think is accurate. I just replaced the battery because it was getting weak (resting voltage of 11.8 and slow crank). It seems it is trying to regen almost all the time, i can hear the intake throttle plate is open and it pings (i know its not really pinging just sounds like that or sounds like a cold diesel rattle) on power more often than not. I actually think the next thing i'm going to do is take the dpf off and wash it out with the pressure washer.
I really wish MB would give us access to what the numbers should be for dpf differential pressure and exhaust back pressure, and any other sensor acceptable ranges for the emission system. it would sure help to diagnose the problems.
Did you ever get any further with this? I too am in the same boat. I had a bad NOX sensor and kept getting the limited engine start count-down. After replacing the NOX sensor this no longer happens, but I can't get the MIL to stay off. Active codes with a standard reader are P2458 & P2459. MB codes are also 111500 The regeneration frequency of the diesel particulate filter is not ok; and 111600 The regeneration of the diesel particulate was aborted.
I tired a force regen with DAS in developer mode and drove for over an hour at freeway speeds. The progress of the regen cycle never got more than half completed. I have no oil leaks, but I am sucking down about a quart of oil every 300 miles. There does not appear to be blow-by, and I don't seem to have any play in the turbo shaft (need to check that again). I am noticing oil on the top of the plastic engine cover (front half of the passenger side). It's not enough to even drip below, but it is fresh. Wondering if this could be a faulty crankcase valve? I asked elsewhere on the forum and have yet to get a response. I don't really want to rebuild/replace the turbo if the issue is the crankcase valve. I am sure there is an easy test, but unfortunately I am still trying to determine the best procedure to troubleshoot.
Have you pulled the small egr pipe attached to the throttle body? Apparently there is a tsb recommending it be cleaned every 40k. There is also a o ring that could leak where it attaches to the engine. That would also make the front oily. Here's mine before cleaning. I used simple green and some lubrimoly engine flush.
Have you pulled the small egr pipe attached to the throttle body? Apparently there is a tsb recommending it be cleaned every 40k. There is also a o ring that could leak where it attaches to the engine. That would also make the front oily. Here's mine before cleaning. I used simple green and some lubrimoly engine flush.
Well a re-inspection of the turbo revealed it is bad turbo seals (lateral slop in the turbo shaft). Looks like I will be having to replace the turbo cartridge. Anyone know if this condition alone will cause the regeneration to fail? My concern is wondering if the failed regeneration is from the turbo seal failure, or if the turbo seals failed because of a problem with the DPF.
Well a re-inspection of the turbo revealed it is bad turbo seals (lateral slop in the turbo shaft). Looks like I will be having to replace the turbo cartridge. Anyone know if this condition alone will cause the regeneration to fail? My concern is wondering if the failed regeneration is from the turbo seal failure, or if the turbo seals failed because of a problem with the DPF.
Any insight is appreciated!
From what I understand, the back pressure from a plugged up exhaust is what kills the turbo. I wonder though if the EGR system has anything to do with it? Mine has play too, but I have a spare turbo from a junkyard motor that doesn’t have any play. It is absolutely filthy however, so I’m contemplating sending it out for a professional rebuild as opposed to getting a cheap Chinese CHRA. I was quoted $450 as long as it doesn’t need any replacement parts. Includes actuator testing, full rebuild kit, ultra sonic cleaning, light machine work, and high speed balancing. I plan on cleaning the DPF w the luqi moly cleaner and checking load state before installing the rebuilt turbo.
Did you ever solve this problem. I'm dealing with the same thing now.
Originally Posted by steve1600cc
Not sure where you came out on this... I've been messing with this thing to point if insanity ready to drive to Canada to get the whole emissions deleted...
Originally Posted by dagdusheth
Dear all, I have only just joined this forum and, as you can guess, because I have a problem with my DPF.
Originally Posted by Harinderassie
Did you figure out what the problem was and how did you fix it. I have the same error code now.
Has anyone solved this without buying a new dpf? Needless to say, I'm in the same boat as the rest of you. I wish folks would report back with where they are in the fight to deal with the dpf madness.
Here's my summarized story so far of my dpf saga:
Limp home mode for DPF soot accumulation-> replaced dpf pressure sensor and pressure washed the dpf
Hoped to get it to keep itself clean with auto regens, but had CEL for stuck intake runners, so as I understand it the truck will not regen if you have CEL on? Finally solved the underlying issue by reinstalling my swirl flap motor, so now after driving it since Nov with the CEL on, I was hoping to now trigger active regen to help clean out the dpf.
Bought MBII to trigger regen: waste of money, doesn't do it even though it said it could.
Bought Foxwell NT650 to trigger regen(this time from Amazon, so if it don't work, it's going back real quick with no stress): I hit regen and it tells me in confusing English to replace my DPF? I didn't buy the $200 scanner to have it tell me to buy a new dpf?! Don't know if it says that to everyone because the dpf regen really doesn't work or if it actually assessed my dpf as being beyond help and it's giving me its' best advice since it could not trigger a regen?
Will order a new DPF sensor to eliminate my sensor as a possible cause of my problem before attempting to take the dpf off again for a second power wash. Taking the dpf is a real PIA, so if $25 sensor will help me avoid that, I'll definitely try that first before redoing the power wash. Kind of feel the power washing is going to have to happen again, since the first time I did it I didn't have a very strong power washer. Wasn't the best possible cleaning.
Did you ever find out what the normal range for the differential pressure should be? Want to monitor this on the scanner but don't know what nominal readings should be.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
Still holding out hope it doesn't come to this!
