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Valve Lifters Play - 2006 ML500

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Old 12-28-2020, 01:57 AM
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Valve Lifters Play - 2006 ML500

Hi Everyone,
1- Because of leaky gasket, I removed the valve cover, driver side. Once removed, I checked the valve lifters. Most of them have some slack, couple of millimeters or so, side to side direction. Please see the attached video. I wonder if that's how they're supposed to be. A few of them though are rock solid, no slack at all. All of them are solid in up/down direction. Please give me some guidance. I do have ticking sound when the engine is cold.
2- The breather cover which is somehow glued to the main cover, also leaks but it doesn't come off. I tried prying, impact by mallet, hair dryer, acetone, WD-40, no luck; the glue/rtv is off white in color. The whole thing is so fragile I applied gentle force throughout. I wonder if I can use blow torch. Any suggestion please.

Old 12-28-2020, 04:51 AM
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You must use a non metal cutter/scraper to remove the vent cover. Screws must be replaced, as they are one time use.

Sealant is found at the bottom of the PDF.
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Old 12-28-2020, 05:53 AM
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The solid ones are most likely the rockers that are under tension from the camshaft lobes. The loose ones should then be closed valves with no tension from the camshaft lobes.

To determine if the side to side movement is the same for all the rockers, turn the engine so those rockers that are now under tension from the lobes, run on the based circle of the cam. The valves for those should then be closed. Then check them for movement. I bet they will be the same. Every rocker will have some movement when its not under tension and the engine isnt running as the lifters are also hydraulic and won't have oil pressure to pump them up. You didn't state how many miles your car has done, but I'd bet what you are seeing is normal as if that level of play wasn't normal, your engine would be running pretty badly.

Last edited by BlackML550; 12-28-2020 at 06:04 AM.
Old 12-28-2020, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



You must use a non metal cutter/scraper to remove the vent cover. Screws must be replaced, as they are one time use.

Sealant is found at the bottom of the PDF.
Great, thanks.
Would you also please let me know the torque for the main valve cover. Thanks.
Old 12-28-2020, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackML550
The solid ones are most likely the rockers that are under tension from the camshaft lobes. The loose ones should then be closed valves with no tension from the camshaft lobes.

To determine if the side to side movement is the same for all the rockers, turn the engine so those rockers that are now under tension from the lobes, run on the based circle of the cam. The valves for those should then be closed. Then check them for movement. I bet they will be the same. Every rocker will have some movement when its not under tension and the engine isnt running as the lifters are also hydraulic and won't have oil pressure to pump them up. You didn't state how many miles your car has done, but I'd bet what you are seeing is normal as if that level of play wasn't normal, your engine would be running pretty badly.
Thank you. The mileage is around 140k miles. Is there anything that I can do while it's open to get rid of the ticking noise when the engine is cold? Thanks
Old 12-28-2020, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
Great, thanks.
Would you also please let me know the torque for the main valve cover. Thanks.

9Nm.

After seating the valve cover, make sure that the rear part of the cover's gasket is not out of place. Use a mirror to do so. Then torque it down,
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Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 12-28-2020 at 02:53 PM.
Old 12-28-2020, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
9Nm.

After seating the valve cover, make sure that the rear part of the cover's gasket is not out of place. Use a mirror to do so. Then torque it down,
perfect. Thanks
Lastly, in general, would you use RTV in combination with gasket, say for the main valve cover.
Old 12-28-2020, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
Thank you. The mileage is around 140k miles. Is there anything that I can do while it's open to get rid of the ticking noise when the engine is cold? Thanks
If you have a problem it will most likely be the lifters that sit between the rocker and the camshaft. I'd say change the oil first and make sure you are using the correct grade oil and a good one at that. If the problem persists you will need to dismantle the valve train to inspect it. Only then will you know what the source is. Ticking when cold is almost always lifters. Lifters aren't the biggest job in the world, but it will still be reasonably expensive given you've got 32 of them plus labour. Maybe others have different experiences. I haven't seen valve train issues on the M273 noted here but they seem to be more common on the W166 and beyond on the V8s it seems.
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Old 01-18-2022, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackML550
If you have a problem it will most likely be the lifters that sit between the rocker and the camshaft. I'd say change the oil first and make sure you are using the correct grade oil and a good one at that. If the problem persists you will need to dismantle the valve train to inspect it. Only then will you know what the source is. Ticking when cold is almost always lifters. Lifters aren't the biggest job in the world, but it will still be reasonably expensive given you've got 32 of them plus labour. Maybe others have different experiences. I haven't seen valve train issues on the M273 noted here but they seem to be more common on the W166 and beyond on the V8s it seems.
The sound is back, and it's on all the time, not only in the morning. Please have a listen to the link. It's very pronounced but it seems to be coming from front of the engine. Any guidance will be appreciated. Thanks.
Old 01-19-2022, 03:17 AM
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What was the last time you changed the oil?

Have you checked the oil level using a dipstick and checked the level via the Inst. Cluster?
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Old 01-19-2022, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
What was the last time you changed the oil?

Have you checked the oil level using a dipstick and checked the level via the Inst. Cluster?
Thanks Major, This car is only equipped with the red oil tube cap that is shown on the very beginning of the video. It's not a dipstick. I only go by the the cluster info panel. I check that periodically. I must say that the mileage has passed due date. But since it's only time related service time I haven't changed oil. Not much kilometers added since last oil change about 8 months ago. It has been mainly parked. But I'm changing the oil today as you suggested to see if it makes the ticking go away. I will report back later today. Thanks
Old 01-19-2022, 12:06 PM
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Here is the dipstick that you should order from ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17364582928...oAAOSwyDdgfSwb

Remove the red cap and slowly insert the stick until it hits the bottom of the oil pan. The stick is much longer than required, so don't think the entire stick must be inserted.

Oil change requires 9.1 qts.

Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 01-19-2022 at 12:15 PM.
Old 01-19-2022, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Here is the dipstick that you should order from ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17364582928...oAAOSwyDdgfSwb

Remove the red cap and slowly insert the stick until it hits the bottom of the oil pan. The stick is much longer than required, so don't think the entire stick must be inserted.

Oil change requires 9.1 qts.
Over the years, for some unknown reason, I've never been able to extract and replace more than 7 to 7.5 qts, including this time, with hot engine.
Since the dipstick only shows graduation, what would be the min/max on the graduation scale? Thanks.
Old 01-19-2022, 11:48 PM
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Oil Change 113 Eng. #2.PDF (103.2 KB, 63 views)
Old 01-20-2022, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj. Dundee
Read
Once the oil was changed, amazingly, and thanks to your guidance, the ticking sound is now completely gone Thank you.
I had to drive the car with ticking sound for about 20 miles, and now everything is fine, do you think any damage was done because of that short drive.
Also, why do we have to use 2 methods to check the oil level. I haven't received that dipstick yet, I only rely on the info by the cluster menu.
Thanks again for the help.
Old 01-21-2022, 03:54 AM
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I doubt there was damage.

About the oil level, the Onboard Check will only tell you when you are low starting at 1 qt, and not before that. With your troubles, do you want to drive with low 1 quart?



Last edited by Maj. Dundee; 01-21-2022 at 05:58 AM.
Old 01-21-2022, 06:42 AM
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Thanks again
Old 11-15-2023, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by anavabi
Hi Everyone,
1- Because of leaky gasket, I removed the valve cover, driver side. Once removed, I checked the valve lifters. Most of them have some slack, couple of millimeters or so, side to side direction. Please see the attached video. I wonder if that's how they're supposed to be. A few of them though are rock solid, no slack at all. All of them are solid in up/down direction. Please give me some guidance. I do have ticking sound when the engine is cold.
2- The breather cover which is somehow glued to the main cover, also leaks but it doesn't come off. I tried prying, impact by mallet, hair dryer, acetone, WD-40, no luck; the glue/rtv is off white in color. The whole thing is so fragile I applied gentle force throughout. I wonder if I can use blow torch. Any suggestion please.

https://youtu.be/finEov9GBwg
I used a blow torch to heat up the breather covers until the sealant started smoking .then with some leverage & a screwdriver they popped right off . Then soda blasted everything clean !
YouTube @TheLongRanger55
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