ABS, ESP Inoperative error (2011 ML350)
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2011 ML350
ABS, ESP Inoperative error (2011 ML350)
Hi all-- I turned on my car this morning to an ABS,ESP Unavailable error, which then turned into Inoperative after a few minutes of driving. I've done a bunch of reading on what could be the possible cause, including a faulty brake light switch. One question I did have, though, is whether a faulty brake light itself could potentially be causing this issue? I recently replaced my brake lights with LED bulbs, and before attempting to install a new brake light switch, am wondering if its worth installing normal incandescent bulbs and seeing if the error goes away. Does this sound like it could possibly be causing the issue?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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2011 ML350
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2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Thread Starter
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2011 ML350
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From: Queensalnd Australia
2006 ML320 CDI (2 of) and 2008 GL320
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Hi all-- I turned on my car this morning to an ABS,ESP Unavailable error, which then turned into Inoperative after a few minutes of driving. I've done a bunch of reading on what could be the possible cause, including a faulty brake light switch. One question I did have, though, is whether a faulty brake light itself could potentially be causing this issue? I recently replaced my brake lights with LED bulbs, and before attempting to install a new brake light switch, am wondering if its worth installing normal incandescent bulbs and seeing if the error goes away. Does this sound like it could possibly be causing the issue?
Thanks!
Thanks!
The Brake Light Sw. is now incorporated into the Brake Booster and cannot be repaired or replaced.
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2011 ML350
Thanks for that guidance. Here are the codes that the scan at the mechanic pulled:
5136 - L6/4 (right rear speed sensor)
5132 - L6/4 (right rear speed sensor)
5022 - No CAN message was received...
5025 - No CAN message was received...
5136 - No CAN message was received...
U140C-00 - An implausible right rear wheel speed signal was received - There is a general failure.
Their finding is that the sensor is bad and they're recommending a new wheel speed sensor, hub, and bearing. ($850 with labor)
They also found my rear brakes were worn down to 2mm, and are recommending a replacement. ($550 with labor)
I asked if they can just replace the sensor without replacing the hub and bearing - he said its actually the hub/bearing that appear to be worn/bad, not the sensor itself. Thoughts on this response?
As for brakes, does $550 with labor (in Northern Georgia) seem like a fair price? I can always take the car somewhere else to do the brakes if this seems generally high.
Thanks!
5136 - L6/4 (right rear speed sensor)
5132 - L6/4 (right rear speed sensor)
5022 - No CAN message was received...
5025 - No CAN message was received...
5136 - No CAN message was received...
U140C-00 - An implausible right rear wheel speed signal was received - There is a general failure.
Their finding is that the sensor is bad and they're recommending a new wheel speed sensor, hub, and bearing. ($850 with labor)
They also found my rear brakes were worn down to 2mm, and are recommending a replacement. ($550 with labor)
I asked if they can just replace the sensor without replacing the hub and bearing - he said its actually the hub/bearing that appear to be worn/bad, not the sensor itself. Thoughts on this response?
As for brakes, does $550 with labor (in Northern Georgia) seem like a fair price? I can always take the car somewhere else to do the brakes if this seems generally high.
Thanks!
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R320, Astro, JSW, ST4
U140C-00 - An implausible right rear wheel speed signal
I'd go with replacing the sensor, as that's what's indicated.
I've seen a notice also, for areas with high humidity (think the recommendation originated in S. Florida) - to replace all 4 wheel speed sensors when one goes bad, that water permeation has something to do with a pattern failure. Don't know your region, but there's that to consider.
They aren't terribly expensive.
Your ABS and ESP will not work without good signals from all four corners.
I doubt the condition of wheel bearings would come into play unless somehow there was physical contact with sensor or a seal blew out and sensor was greasy.
(, which they could show you on the pulled sensor.)
I'd go with replacing the sensor, as that's what's indicated.
I've seen a notice also, for areas with high humidity (think the recommendation originated in S. Florida) - to replace all 4 wheel speed sensors when one goes bad, that water permeation has something to do with a pattern failure. Don't know your region, but there's that to consider.
They aren't terribly expensive.
Your ABS and ESP will not work without good signals from all four corners.
I doubt the condition of wheel bearings would come into play unless somehow there was physical contact with sensor or a seal blew out and sensor was greasy.
(, which they could show you on the pulled sensor.)
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From: Queensalnd Australia
2006 ML320 CDI (2 of) and 2008 GL320
if dash lights up immediately when you start car that abs and esp are out then suggest that it must be sensor, if it is after you start moving along then it could be wheelbearing but the sensor is probably bad
I am in Australia so can't help with pricing but I bought good quality rear discs and good quality pads for about $200 aus ($270 US) - normally I buy parts from the states as way cheaper - not discs though as too heavy
normally they do 2 or 3 seta of pads before the discs are worn out. rear pads are only around $80 and quick to replace so if that is all they are doing go to an Indy
how far has car gone?? would help with guidance to wheelbearing
I am in Australia so can't help with pricing but I bought good quality rear discs and good quality pads for about $200 aus ($270 US) - normally I buy parts from the states as way cheaper - not discs though as too heavy
normally they do 2 or 3 seta of pads before the discs are worn out. rear pads are only around $80 and quick to replace so if that is all they are doing go to an Indy
how far has car gone?? would help with guidance to wheelbearing
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Thanks for that guidance. Here are the codes that the scan at the mechanic pulled:
5136 - L6/4 (right rear speed sensor)
5132 - L6/4 (right rear speed sensor)
5022 - No CAN message was received...
5025 - No CAN message was received...
5136 - No CAN message was received...
U140C-00 - An implausible right rear wheel speed signal was received - There is a general failure.
Their finding is that the sensor is bad and they're recommending a new wheel speed sensor, hub, and bearing. ($850 with labor)
They also found my rear brakes were worn down to 2mm, and are recommending a replacement. ($550 with labor)
I asked if they can just replace the sensor without replacing the hub and bearing - he said its actually the hub/bearing that appear to be worn/bad, not the sensor itself. Thoughts on this response?
As for brakes, does $550 with labor (in Northern Georgia) seem like a fair price? I can always take the car somewhere else to do the brakes if this seems generally high.
Thanks!
5136 - L6/4 (right rear speed sensor)
5132 - L6/4 (right rear speed sensor)
5022 - No CAN message was received...
5025 - No CAN message was received...
5136 - No CAN message was received...
U140C-00 - An implausible right rear wheel speed signal was received - There is a general failure.
Their finding is that the sensor is bad and they're recommending a new wheel speed sensor, hub, and bearing. ($850 with labor)
They also found my rear brakes were worn down to 2mm, and are recommending a replacement. ($550 with labor)
I asked if they can just replace the sensor without replacing the hub and bearing - he said its actually the hub/bearing that appear to be worn/bad, not the sensor itself. Thoughts on this response?
As for brakes, does $550 with labor (in Northern Georgia) seem like a fair price? I can always take the car somewhere else to do the brakes if this seems generally high.
Thanks!
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2011 ML350
if dash lights up immediately when you start car that abs and esp are out then suggest that it must be sensor, if it is after you start moving along then it could be wheelbearing but the sensor is probably bad
how far has car gone?? would help with guidance to wheelbearing
how far has car gone?? would help with guidance to wheelbearing
As for the warning itself, it comes on immediately when I turn on the car.
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2011 ML350
That actually does look really easy. The bulk of the $850 they quoted were for the service/parts for doing the hub/bearing, which is why I'm so cautious to say 'go ahead.' I haven't seen/heard any other symptoms of a bad hub/bearing (no humming, vibrating wheel, etc.), so if I can potentially fix this solution in the short term with just replacing the sensor, I'd honestly prefer to do that... hopefully this mechanic is receptive to trying, otherwise I'll just have to pay him his $79 diag fee and either do it myself or find a place that's willing to.
$415 to remove rear wheel bearing
$100 for ABS speed sensor
$200 for FEB wheel hub w/o bearing
$100 for wheel bearing
Not sure what the service cost would be to just do the sensor -- have to imagine way less than $415.
$415 to remove rear wheel bearing
$100 for ABS speed sensor
$200 for FEB wheel hub w/o bearing
$100 for wheel bearing
Not sure what the service cost would be to just do the sensor -- have to imagine way less than $415.
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Forums are to help people repair their own vehicles and not to determine if repair shops are taking you for a ride. which they are.
Why is it so hard for you to replace the sensor?
Why is it so hard for you to replace the sensor?
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2011 ML350
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From: Queensalnd Australia
2006 ML320 CDI (2 of) and 2008 GL320
Honestly Maj Dundee has GREAT input - he is right and trying to be subtle - Replace the sensor....
BUT
The sensor is easy to replace - all evidence is heading that way - why not just change it - see if it works -
Honestly when I see Maj Dundee reply to a thread I have started I am relieved - filter him out at your peril
BUT
The sensor is easy to replace - all evidence is heading that way - why not just change it - see if it works -
Honestly when I see Maj Dundee reply to a thread I have started I am relieved - filter him out at your peril
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 765
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Honestly Maj Dundee has GREAT input - he is right and trying to be subtle - Replace the sensor....
BUT
The sensor is easy to replace - all evidence is heading that way - why not just change it - see if it works -
Honestly when I see Maj Dundee reply to a thread I have started I am relieved - filter him out at your peril
BUT
The sensor is easy to replace - all evidence is heading that way - why not just change it - see if it works -
Honestly when I see Maj Dundee reply to a thread I have started I am relieved - filter him out at your peril
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 19
Likes: 7
2011 ML350
Honestly Maj Dundee has GREAT input - he is right and trying to be subtle - Replace the sensor....
BUT
The sensor is easy to replace - all evidence is heading that way - why not just change it - see if it works -
Honestly when I see Maj Dundee reply to a thread I have started I am relieved - filter him out at your peril
BUT
The sensor is easy to replace - all evidence is heading that way - why not just change it - see if it works -
Honestly when I see Maj Dundee reply to a thread I have started I am relieved - filter him out at your peril
cheers.
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Posts: 7,107
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From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
appreciate that perspective. Apologies Maj Dundee — didn’t mean to pick a fight with your response. Just be mindful that not everyone knows as much as you do about vehicles — and that we have to rely on a mechanic to assess a situation, and we come here for a second opinion, short of driving our cars around to every local shop for an opinion.
cheers.
cheers.
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From: Queensland
2011 Mercedes Benz ML350
Maj.Dundee
on a personal note I’m having the same issue and keep coming up a dead end.
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2009 ML350 4matic
There are so many scanners you can buy these days that are under a couple hundred dollars and trust me, they will save you so much more if you own one of these vehicles than the cost of a Scanner. I personally own an AUTEL Pro but have heard good things about the Foxwells, iCarsoft and others. On the subject of speed sensors, they are probably one of the more simple things besides air filters to replace on the W164 and it boggles the mind how many codes this one thing can throw. Most MB mechanics tell you to replace all 4 sensors at the same time but after having done this, I would say start with the one that is throwing the code and leave the others alone until they go bust.
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R320, Astro, JSW, ST4
A lot of good input here, ++ to Dundee and others.
As far as the speed sensors go, they anchor a big chain of software/hardware dependencies. VSS > ABS > ESP > Cruise Control, even to transmission lockup control.
A TSB/service recommendation became a sort of best practice of replacing all four.
It originated in S. Florida and Puerto Rico, and suggested doing all four if car is domiciled in a wet climate.
With mine I tried doing front axle first with I think Vemo brand, but issue came back.
I then put Now, all four corners good for $40 hard to beat.
I verified they are working correctly using a Foxwell 520 Pro ($150 from memory), license is single-model but I can see the reported speed at each wheel.
As far as the speed sensors go, they anchor a big chain of software/hardware dependencies. VSS > ABS > ESP > Cruise Control, even to transmission lockup control.
A TSB/service recommendation became a sort of best practice of replacing all four.
It originated in S. Florida and Puerto Rico, and suggested doing all four if car is domiciled in a wet climate.
With mine I tried doing front axle first with I think Vemo brand, but issue came back.
I then put Now, all four corners good for $40 hard to beat.
I verified they are working correctly using a Foxwell 520 Pro ($150 from memory), license is single-model but I can see the reported speed at each wheel.
