Fixing a Lemon 06 ML500 - Cooling Issue, SAM N10
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Fixing a Lemon 06 ML500 - Cooling Issue, SAM N10
I bought a lemon 06 ML500. I've been trying to fix all of its problems so I can sell it honestly. In my scan, I see an engine cooling issue, that is an I versus an f or F. When I click on this issue, I get the instruction to "check component S41, coolant level indicator switch. One of the prerequisites for this test is that "The power supply of component N10 (Front SAM control unit) is OK. I click to go ahead to test S41, the coolant switch, and I am informed by the software that: Control unit N10 (Front SAM control unit) must be reprogrammed.
Please can I get some advice about this issue? I'd prefer to fix this issue myself. Is it possible to buy a tool that can reprogram SAM units? If not, or prohibitively expensive, is it best to buy a good used control unit? Second thought, is it possible that the N10 is simply bad, and reprogramming even at the dealership would fail, and replacing it is always the best course of action.
If anyone thought it would help, I could scan the printouts from these steps and upload them to this post.
Please can I get some advice about this issue? I'd prefer to fix this issue myself. Is it possible to buy a tool that can reprogram SAM units? If not, or prohibitively expensive, is it best to buy a good used control unit? Second thought, is it possible that the N10 is simply bad, and reprogramming even at the dealership would fail, and replacing it is always the best course of action.
If anyone thought it would help, I could scan the printouts from these steps and upload them to this post.
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From: Melbourne, Australia
2010 ML550 VIN WDC1641722A564750, 2010 B180
Do you have any other functions not operating properly that might be associated with the SAM? Have you checked it for signs of water ingress or corrision? Is there a chance its been changed before you bought it?
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I do have another issue possibly related to this SAM, an issue in ESP that might go back to this unit. This car came from Oklahoma. So I am not sure on water entering the vehicle. My understanding is that if the roof leaks and water gets in, it tends to do in the rear SAM first? I don't see any corrosion. I bought it from a one man used car operation. He claimed he fixed a steering wheel angle issue.
I found this on
. It discusses the problem you mention, water, corrosion. It looks like I need to remove the front seat, buy a new SAM, and also an Autel Maxisys Elite to code it. I do see some SAMs on eBay for sale, but I don't think I will buy one until I pull mine and can see the MB part number installed.
Looks like this is another typical MB repair, a land war in Asia in terms of the complexity. So, I guess I will need several weekends to fix this.
I found this on
Looks like this is another typical MB repair, a land war in Asia in terms of the complexity. So, I guess I will need several weekends to fix this.
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11 ML550, 95 Supra TT, 14 Audi S4
SAMs with corrosion can often be fixed by gently scrubbing the areas showing corrosion using a toothbrush and contact cleaner after popping the cover off. Removal requires removing both batteries (the seat doesn't have to come out although it makes it easier), and unplugging 4 or 5 connectors.
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Thank you for the input. In the video I referenced, he does have the seat out. I wonder if the cost/benefit is worth it? I have pulled batteries before from the ML class just moving the seat forward. Are you saying to pull the SAM and pop the black case and look for corrosion inside? Yes, I've heard of this technique before in the computer world to resurrect dead logic boards, polishing with a toothbrush. Do you think it would still need programming if you can repair the corrosion? Also, do you think DAS telling me it needs reprogrammed is indicative of possible corrosion?
SAMs with corrosion can often be fixed by gently scrubbing the areas showing corrosion using a toothbrush and contact cleaner after popping the cover off. Removal requires removing both batteries (the seat doesn't have to come out although it makes it easier), and unplugging 4 or 5 connectors.
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I've never tried pulling them with the seat out. The main battery is a PITA with it in place even if you move it forward and up as far as possible. If you remove the seat, remove the bolts that go from the sliders into the body rather than the bolts that connect the seat to the slider. Those bolts are part of the weight sensing system for the airbags and have some bushings that may break if removed.
Exactly on the SAM. Unplug all the connectors, remove from the car, take the top cover off. You shouldn't need any programming if you're able to repair the SAM that is currently in the vehicle. I'm not sure on the DAS message. I was getting grounding errors related to some interior/exterior lights that wouldn't turn off on mine. If you see corrosion on the board, it is probably worth a try. I wrote up a post with some details and a picture of the inside of the SAM (on my GL, but the SAM should be the same on an ML) at: https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...am-repair.html. Good luck - it is a much cheaper fix than a new SAM if it works.
Exactly on the SAM. Unplug all the connectors, remove from the car, take the top cover off. You shouldn't need any programming if you're able to repair the SAM that is currently in the vehicle. I'm not sure on the DAS message. I was getting grounding errors related to some interior/exterior lights that wouldn't turn off on mine. If you see corrosion on the board, it is probably worth a try. I wrote up a post with some details and a picture of the inside of the SAM (on my GL, but the SAM should be the same on an ML) at: https://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-...am-repair.html. Good luck - it is a much cheaper fix than a new SAM if it works.
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Update: I bought (used, $180, eBay) the exact same SAM, MB part # and swapped it in. I did take the seat out. I figured the time to take the seat out would be paid back in less time to trying to get the SAM in and out. For me, it worked out that way. I found the front seat pretty easy AFTER figuring out the bolts have to come out before you remove the plastic trim pieces. I also did the auxiliary battery while I was in there. After putting it all back together, clearing the faults in Xentry, I scanned to find similar, but not identical issues related to the front SAM. These faults suggest the same problem that I had before, the front SAM needs programmed.
I'd done a ton of research, I think I am going to buy an Autel MS909, around $3k. It looks like this unit can do SCN programming, including the front SAM. I'll report back when I've received it on its ability to fix this problem. I am hoping in the long term, as I continue to buy, fix, and drive Mercedes, this will be an investment that pays back. In six years of working on my own Mercedes, I've never been to the dealer for help, except for factory recalls. So I don't want to start now.
I'd done a ton of research, I think I am going to buy an Autel MS909, around $3k. It looks like this unit can do SCN programming, including the front SAM. I'll report back when I've received it on its ability to fix this problem. I am hoping in the long term, as I continue to buy, fix, and drive Mercedes, this will be an investment that pays back. In six years of working on my own Mercedes, I've never been to the dealer for help, except for factory recalls. So I don't want to start now.
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Update: I bought (used, $180, eBay) the exact same SAM, MB part # and swapped it in. I did take the seat out. I figured the time to take the seat out would be paid back in less time to trying to get the SAM in and out. For me, it worked out that way. I found the front seat pretty easy AFTER figuring out the bolts have to come out before you remove the plastic trim pieces. I also did the auxiliary battery while I was in there. After putting it all back together, clearing the faults in Xentry, I scanned to find similar, but not identical issues related to the front SAM. These faults suggest the same problem that I had before, the front SAM needs programmed.
I'd done a ton of research, I think I am going to buy an Autel MS909, around $3k. It looks like this unit can do SCN programming, including the front SAM. I'll report back when I've received it on its ability to fix this problem. I am hoping in the long term, as I continue to buy, fix, and drive Mercedes, this will be an investment that pays back. In six years of working on my own Mercedes, I've never been to the dealer for help, except for factory recalls. So I don't want to start now.
I'd done a ton of research, I think I am going to buy an Autel MS909, around $3k. It looks like this unit can do SCN programming, including the front SAM. I'll report back when I've received it on its ability to fix this problem. I am hoping in the long term, as I continue to buy, fix, and drive Mercedes, this will be an investment that pays back. In six years of working on my own Mercedes, I've never been to the dealer for help, except for factory recalls. So I don't want to start now.
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Are you sure the Autel can program a used SAM? They can be programmed, but require some hackery to program since they're locked to the original VIN. Also, is the Autel more capable than Xentry/DAS? The Benzninja package is about 1/3rd the cost (even less if you already have a C4 Star unit), and you get his programming expertise as a part of the package. Just a thought.
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I decided to go that route rather than trying to piece everything together on my own. I'm a happy customer so far. He was able to take care of the two coding needs I had and is very responsive. I'm guessing he can do the programming on the SAM, but I'd check first.
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