Hello everyone,

I have been dealing with an issue for the past week where the car does not start, the key turns and the cluster lights up but when I flick the key nothing happens, just pure silence.

A related issue actually started almost two months ago, but back then I used to get an error on the dash saying "move shifter to neutral or park to start engine" (or something like that) despite it being in park, when I move the shifter nothing happens, I scanned multiple control units (intelligent servo module, engine control unit, SRS control unit, and I guess transmission control unit) and they all stated "no CAN massage was received from control unit N73 EIS (EZS) control unit).

I tried clearing the codes with no luck until I removed battery's negative terminal and reconnected it and the car ran just fine for almost two weeks, it happened again twice (three weeks apart) and I did the same thing with the battery and it also started just fine, but last week this trick stopped working and the car no longer starts. I talked to multiple mechanics about the issue and there was a consensus on a bad EIS that needs replacement, $250 later and a newly programmed used EIS and the car still behaves exactly the same.

I started investigating the fuse box in the engine bay and noticed that fuse #105 was blown, replaced the fuse and when I tried to start the car it blew again (with absolutely no crank), I tried a new fuse but this time with the key at ACC position in the ignition, the fuse did not blow, just when I put the key in the "ON" position the fuse blows, I tried removing the starter relay and fuel pump relay, again the fuse blows at position "ON". One of the attempts was putting the key at the ON position with no fuse in location 105, once I install the fuse it takes only two seconds and the fuse blows.

Some background to the issue:

I purchased the car almost two years ago, the car ran fine except for a few things:
- On warm startups (engine at operating temp), sometimes (I would say 2 out of 10 warm start ups) the car will struggle massively to crank and start, sometimes it even fails to start (very hard cranking), I flick the key after that attempt and the car starts just fine.
- Storage (AUX) battery error was always on, I tried replacing the aux battery but nothing changed (I suspect rear SAM issue).
- About 4 months ago the SRS light came on, after scanning, the tool says control unit is defective, I don't think this is related but might be worth mentioning.
- Driver's door lock actuator doesn't work as intended, when I open the door it keeps thinking that I open and close the door repeatedly and rapidly, again, not sure if this affects anything but might be worth mentioning.
- On the night prior to the very recent issue where there is no crank at all, I fully filled the gas tank.

Now the car is with the mechanic and he called me today to say that the ECU is shot and needs replacement, could that be actually the issue? did anyone face similar issue (fuse #105 keeps blowing)? and what was the solution?

I kinda suspect the ECU because several days ago I scanned the ECU for DTCs and several codes showed up that I never saw before, such as a bad MAF sensor and few others, tried clearing them and only two left and those two never showed up before. And the second reason is that unfortunately bad ECUs is kinda common issue on the 272 and 273 platforms because of its location.

Thanks.

 

Just scanned the ECU and got those DTCs, never seen them before

 

Ok guys, nevermind, just got it fixed.

Indeed it was the ECU, got a used one and got it programmed, car fired right up.

Hope this helps someone.

 

Curious if your ECU was fried from oil wicking up through cam position and magnet sensor harnesses. I’m in the middle of dealing with this issue on my ‘14 gl450, but am anticipating the ECU may have been damaged from the oil.

 

I haven't cracked open the ECU, but the two huge plugs are completely dry so I assume the ECU board is dry as well.

is your car blowing a certain fuse constantly as I described in the main post?

 

no fuses blowing. Just lots of random misfires and evap leak codes. I’m curious if when you reconnected the plugs on the ECU, if your fan turned on by itself. Not a lot of discussion around the proper way to disconnect and reconnect the ECU. I’m wondering if the batt should be disconnected

 

The fan did not kick in at all even though the plugs were disconnected and reconnected multiple times, not sure either about the correct procedure of disconnecting the ECU but the mechanic just did as if he is replacing a headlight bulb

Hope you sort out your problem soon.