AIRMATIC Button stuck in Sport Mode
Newbie
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 12
Likes: 4
ML350
Hi One morning I was driving and the light went to sport mode. Upon pressing the button, light didn't return to comfort mode. Every time I started my car, the light would stay in comfort mode for 15-20 secs and then goes into sport mode.
One of the gap (between wheel and fender) was smaller by 1/4 of an inch which could be causing the car to go and get stuck in sport mode.
Reason: Faulty level sensor, Bent links
Solution: Check all the cable to level sensor, make sure no links on level sensor is bent or seized. Move all the links with your hand to break any dirt. Luckily it worked for me, it should work for you too.
Sorry I am no mechanic and solution I provided could only be a fluke but worth a try.
One of the gap (between wheel and fender) was smaller by 1/4 of an inch which could be causing the car to go and get stuck in sport mode.
Reason: Faulty level sensor, Bent links
Solution: Check all the cable to level sensor, make sure no links on level sensor is bent or seized. Move all the links with your hand to break any dirt. Luckily it worked for me, it should work for you too.
Sorry I am no mechanic and solution I provided could only be a fluke but worth a try.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Ml350cdi
Hi All, I've been working on this issue as described ( sport light comes on after 15-20 sec) these are some of the results.
K51 + K52 Ohm Between terminals 1 & 2 = 10.9 Ohm Between 1 & 3 = 11 Ohm. Between terminals 2 & 3 + 22 Ohms. This was approx the same result for all ADS solenoids and was performed using the original harness that came with the new struts. Using Modus Edge I recalibrated the steering angel and set to o" ( there was a tolerance between -10 & 10 degrees, but I set to 0"
Thinking I have proved continuity between harness connecter and solenoids. However I still have nothing concrete to say the fault has been fixed.
I tried to back probe for volts at the chassis harness connecter but the results were inconclusive as I would think that the voltage reading would be around 5V to 12V Thinking anything less then 1 volt would not be enough to drive a 10 Ohm solenoid.
Also, I have codes that come back including the malfunction sign on the dash.
5207- Y51y1 5227 - Y52y1 5217 - Y51y2
I'll start looking at level sensor's and check for connecter continuity but I could really use some values in terms of what the solenoid operating volts should be. It's a w164 ml350 2010. any technical schematics and or further diagnostic procedures would be greatly appreciated.
K51 + K52 Ohm Between terminals 1 & 2 = 10.9 Ohm Between 1 & 3 = 11 Ohm. Between terminals 2 & 3 + 22 Ohms. This was approx the same result for all ADS solenoids and was performed using the original harness that came with the new struts. Using Modus Edge I recalibrated the steering angel and set to o" ( there was a tolerance between -10 & 10 degrees, but I set to 0"
Thinking I have proved continuity between harness connecter and solenoids. However I still have nothing concrete to say the fault has been fixed.
I tried to back probe for volts at the chassis harness connecter but the results were inconclusive as I would think that the voltage reading would be around 5V to 12V Thinking anything less then 1 volt would not be enough to drive a 10 Ohm solenoid.
Also, I have codes that come back including the malfunction sign on the dash.
5207- Y51y1 5227 - Y52y1 5217 - Y51y2
I'll start looking at level sensor's and check for connecter continuity but I could really use some values in terms of what the solenoid operating volts should be. It's a w164 ml350 2010. any technical schematics and or further diagnostic procedures would be greatly appreciated.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
mercedes ml420 cdi 2007
Hi One morning I was driving and the light went to sport mode. Upon pressing the button, light didn't return to comfort mode. Every time I started my car, the light would stay in comfort mode for 15-20 secs and then goes into sport mode.
One of the gap (between wheel and fender) was smaller by 1/4 of an inch which could be causing the car to go and get stuck in sport mode.
Reason: Faulty level sensor, Bent links
Solution: Check all the cable to level sensor, make sure no links on level sensor is bent or seized. Move all the links with your hand to break any dirt. Luckily it worked for me, it should work for you too.
Sorry I am no mechanic and solution I provided could only be a fluke but worth a try.
One of the gap (between wheel and fender) was smaller by 1/4 of an inch which could be causing the car to go and get stuck in sport mode.
Reason: Faulty level sensor, Bent links
Solution: Check all the cable to level sensor, make sure no links on level sensor is bent or seized. Move all the links with your hand to break any dirt. Luckily it worked for me, it should work for you too.
Sorry I am no mechanic and solution I provided could only be a fluke but worth a try.
HELLO. DID YOU AIRMARIC RAISE AND LOWERING WHEN PRESSING THE RAISE BUTTON. mine still raises and lowers but won't come out of sports mode. I'll have a look at the sensors and links as we live in a village am hoping it is dirty thays causing the issue
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2022
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Likes: 99
2014 E63 / 2017 CLS 63 / 2015 G63
I’ve came to notice my car did the same today.
may I ask the update on this??
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Newbie
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 4
Likes: 1
2014 ML 350 BlueTec
Had the same issue on my 2014 ML 350 BT. Ended up being corroded harnesses on rear shocks.
Shocks were still good, but I could not get electrical part separated from the shock myself and mechanic advised that labor to do that will be more than new shock - result replaced rear shocks.
Shocks were still good, but I could not get electrical part separated from the shock myself and mechanic advised that labor to do that will be more than new shock - result replaced rear shocks.
