Ideas For Custom Subwoofer Install?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ideas For Custom Subwoofer Install?
I've got two 10" JL Audio subs and an amp from another car I owned. I only need to install one 10" sub in the ML350 and looking for ideas where to best tuck it away for a discreet install. I'm thinking of pulling the spare and using that area but not sure I like the idea of a big whole in the floor. Has anyone done any custom installs? Thanks, MM
#2
Super Member
http://www.harmankardon.com/mercedes-benz-m-class.html
this is the HK logic 7 diagram in the ML350 so this could serve as a guide?
this is the HK logic 7 diagram in the ML350 so this could serve as a guide?
The following users liked this post:
musicmafia (12-28-2017)
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
http://www.harmankardon.com/mercedes-benz-m-class.html
this is the HK logic 7 diagram in the ML350 so this could serve as a guide?
this is the HK logic 7 diagram in the ML350 so this could serve as a guide?
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I've decided to lose the spare tire and tuck everything away discretely under the cargo deck. I've got road assistance if needed. My install guy says we won't need to port it or cut any holes in the deck. I have a small box for one of the 10" subs, so the easiest and cheapest thing will be to drop that box in there (pray that it fits), secure the amp under there and call it a day. No one will know it's there (until I turn on the stereo).
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well, my current sub enclosure box is about 1" too high to fit under the cargo deck as is, so it looks like I'm going to have another custom box built to fit the space. I'll put the amp there too, although when I was playing around today, I found a great spot to tuck an amp (even a 1000W monster like mine) under the rear seats. Will try and post a pic:
Trending Topics
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
LOL!! You may be right! I bought way more power than I needed and the gain on that amp has never been turned higher than 1. That said, it's super clean, sounds awesome and has worked flawlessly in my last 2 (now 3) cars. It's probably going to end up in the spare tire compartment anyway. By the gas tank!
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
probably better suited for demolition
the challenge with these audio installs is I want everything stealth and hidden away. a giant box with two 12" subs and neon lights taking up half my cargo space is definitely not my style hoping to have everything installed this week.
the challenge with these audio installs is I want everything stealth and hidden away. a giant box with two 12" subs and neon lights taking up half my cargo space is definitely not my style hoping to have everything installed this week.
The following users liked this post:
drwolf (01-08-2018)
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Went the cheap and easy route. Cut off an inch or so off my box to make it fit in the tire compartment, dropped the amp in and BAM! It ain't pretty, but it doesn't need to be. All hidden and tucked away discretely under the deck. 1000 watts pushing one JL Audio 10" sub. Stock speakers crossed over to only get mids and highs. Sounds awesome. Pu
nchy and clean with no distortion, even when the head unit is turned to 10.
nchy and clean with no distortion, even when the head unit is turned to 10.
The following users liked this post:
peter2772000 (01-08-2018)
The following users liked this post:
musicmafia (01-09-2018)
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks! All factory! Still have the same interface controls on screen and volume control on steering wheel, etc.. No factory gear was touched...For additional bass level control I mounted a tiny remote level controller discretely under the steering wheel area..
The following users liked this post:
NickW (01-10-2018)
#21
Member
How did you tie the sub/amp into the factory sound system for the RCA's? Hi-lo converter? I have a 12" sub in an old box that I may try to retrofit in the same location, but I'm not sure how much more difficult a 12" sub will be to go in that same space.
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I saw another member here post an install with a large sub facing up and he cut a whole in the deck and put a grill over the speaker, which probably allowed for a couple more inches in depth...It looked pretty wild. I change cars often and take my gear with me, so I prefer not to alter the interior.
The following users liked this post:
NickW (01-26-2018)
#23
2) Run the four tap wires to your Line Output Converter (LOC) speaker/high level inputs
3) Connect the LOC to your amp as usual
Speaker wires provide a signal. The LOC converts it to low-level RCA output; higher end units allow for restoration of lower frequencies (which are generally rolled off by factory head units), remote trigger for amp, and higher voltage levels.
#25
I ended up buying a small Class D (300W RMS @ 4 ohm certified) Alpine monoblock amplifier with speaker level inputs to do away with the LOC. It wasn’t much more than a good LOC, and is much smaller than my other Class A/B amp, so it has no problem sitting under the back seat.
I also recommend keeping your spare; a 0.66cuft sealed box for a 10” sub isn’t that big, and would be very easy to remove if the additional room was required. Personally, I’d rather be able to put on a spare than show off how “clean” my install is or any other concern I can conjure!
1) Tap the rear speaker +/– wires
2) Run the four tap wires to your Line Output Converter (LOC) speaker/high level inputs
3) Connect the LOC to your amp as usual
Speaker wires provide a signal. The LOC converts it to low-level RCA output; higher end units allow for restoration of lower frequencies (which are generally rolled off by factory head units), remote trigger for amp, and higher voltage levels.
I also recommend keeping your spare; a 0.66cuft sealed box for a 10” sub isn’t that big, and would be very easy to remove if the additional room was required. Personally, I’d rather be able to put on a spare than show off how “clean” my install is or any other concern I can conjure!
1) Tap the rear speaker +/– wires
2) Run the four tap wires to your Line Output Converter (LOC) speaker/high level inputs
3) Connect the LOC to your amp as usual
Speaker wires provide a signal. The LOC converts it to low-level RCA output; higher end units allow for restoration of lower frequencies (which are generally rolled off by factory head units), remote trigger for amp, and higher voltage levels.