M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

2014 Bluetec Rear Brakes

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Old Jul 31, 2019 | 11:50 AM
  #1  
Etienne Lau's Avatar
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Ml350 bluetec
2014 Bluetec Rear Brakes

Newbie here. I just DIY replaced new rear brake pads and rotors on my 2014 Bluetec. While changing the rear pads, I did noticed that the right rear pads were substantially thicker than the left rear pads implying the right rear were not working. I did not give it any thoughts and installed the new rotors and new pads. But now it seems like this rear right issue continues to be an issue. I have uploaded pictures of the left and right rotor showing the lack of pad engagement on the right side. I took the right caliper off again last night to re-grease the pads and slide pins and then took it for a test drive. After returning from the test drive, I used a temperature probe and found the left in the 150C temperature range and the right side in the 50-70C temperature range implying that the right side was not engaging.

Suggestions on how to resolve this issue would be most helpful. But it seems like I am looking at a new right rear caliper....If so are the calipers are to replace?



Left Rotor

Right Rotor
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Old Aug 1, 2019 | 09:22 AM
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What is the history of this vehicle?

How long have you owned it?

How many miles are on it?

When were the brakes (front and rear) changed? Who did the work?

Do you have, or are you able to obtain, service documentation for the vehicle?

Please describe the sensation when braking. Noises, vibrations, etc.
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Old Aug 1, 2019 | 10:52 AM
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Etienne Lau's Avatar
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Originally Posted by chassis
What is the history of this vehicle?

How long have you owned it?

How many miles are on it?

When were the brakes (front and rear) changed? Who did the work?

Do you have, or are you able to obtain, service documentation for the vehicle?

Please describe the sensation when braking. Noises, vibrations, etc.

I am the 2nd owner. Owned it since 2016. It has 74,000 miles. I suspect the bulk of those miles are up in the Chicago area, as I have some of the service records from the Mercedes dealer in that area. No abnormal sensation when braking, no noise, no vibration, etc...

When I took the wheels off for tire rotation last year, the wheels were stuck to the hub. I literally had to hit the tires with a big hammer several times before they would come off. And this time when i took off the original rotors I also had to hit them several times to get them off as well. While trying to push the piston on the right rear back into the caliper I also did notice that it did stick part way and I had to rotate the piston several times to get it going again. Let's just say it certainly did not go back in as smoothly as the left side piston.

I do not believe the brakes have ever been done. Certainly not the front pads as the pads still have the Mercedes Label on the pads. I have no way of knowing if the back brakes have ever been done. At least not from the dealer, as the service records I have do not show the dealer ever doing any brake work. The vehicle has been primarily driven back and forth between Chicago and Dallas. It was purchased new from a Mercedes dealer here in Dallas by the original owner, and spent the first several years either going back and forth or staying in the Chicago area, before being sold to me in Dallas.
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Old Aug 1, 2019 | 11:50 AM
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You should feel pulling to the opposite side of the suspect caliper, if the suspect caliper is not actuating.

New rear rotors, calipers and pads is an option to get you back to a known condition level. Plus a bleed/flush from the dealer. Then go from there.
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Old Aug 1, 2019 | 11:56 AM
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Etienne Lau's Avatar
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Originally Posted by chassis
You should feel pulling to the opposite side of the suspect caliper, if the suspect caliper is not actuating.

New rear rotors, calipers and pads is an option to get you back to a known condition level. Plus a bleed/flush from the dealer. Then go from there.

No pulling since these are rear calipers. I have another vehicle where one of the front caliper was stuck and definitely can feel pulling in that setup. I just installed all new pads and rotors. So I am now in the process of buying a new right rear caliper to address this matter. When I did the rear pad change I also did a complete bleed/flush as well.
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Old Aug 1, 2019 | 03:50 PM
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Sounds like it could be the solution. Please post an update after the caliper refit.
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 11:26 AM
  #7  
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Update on these issues. I figured out what was causing the different wear patterns on the rotor and also the heat build-up on the left wheel pads causing burnt smell. I had installed the inner pad on the outside and and outside pad on the inside. As soon as I reversed the pads so the inner pad was on the inside the burning smell has gone away. So I am now just waiting for a new right caliper to shipped. Hopefully this new right rear caliper will address the uneven wear on the right side.
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Old Aug 16, 2019 | 11:19 AM
  #8  
Etienne Lau's Avatar
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Update on the rear pads/braking. Finally got the right rear caliper replaced as well. Braking seems fine now, although I suspect my issues were caused by me having the outside/inside pads reversed. As shown in the picture below, the rubber boot is all messed up as well, so replacing the caliper was the way to go.

Old right rear Caliper
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Old Aug 19, 2019 | 04:10 AM
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Wow, I don't think I've ever seen pads which were specially designed for the outboard/inboard of a rotor. Great thread bud!
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Old Aug 19, 2019 | 10:47 AM
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Rear brake pads.

Top row are inboard pads, note the prongs/tangs to hold the rear wear sensor.

Top Row inboard pads, 2nd row outboard pads
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