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That's a big help. If's about what I figured looking at the replacements (got them from a junkyard) and the struts. Appreciate it. Shouldn't be too bad from the sound of it. John
Originally Posted by Zuffen
I did mine a month ago.
The struts have a plastic clip at each end that needs prying off the strut.
Under the clip is a wire basket that needs prying loose, so you can pull the strut off it's mount.
Make sure you support the tailgate as it would hurt hitting your head.
On the motor strut you need to remove the interior side panel to unplug the end of the cable.
You need to remove the anchor point in the corner plus a black plastic hanger.
The panel will come off with gentle force.
The plug is a bit hard to see but can be done.
I didn't remove the rear blind or its mount.
The cable grommet will just pull out of the rear and the new one goes in easily.
You also need to remove the plastic trims around the bottom of the powered strut.
Reinstalling the wire basket can be a a bit fiddly but it's not hard.
Hi there - thanks for the info. My problem (ML350, 2012) is that the right hand side (power strut) lower end clip looks impossible to remove to expose the wire basket you mention. The top is ok, but I've already cracked the lower cover trying to get it off as you can see.
Any tips anyone?
Peter, I think when I did this in October I just pried those caps off from the side with a screwdriver and they came off in one piece. I think Mercedes must expect you to destroy the caps though because when I got the new gas strut and drive spindle from the dealer they said I needed two new caps for the bottom of the struts as well. I had more trouble getting the wire off the top anchor points, I basically had to destroy the wire to get it out (new struts come with new wires).
Here are part numbers:
001-998-07-21 Right side bottom cap 166-982-07-09 Left side bottom cap
166-890-00-00 Right side drive spindle 166-980-36-64 Left side gas strut
Part numbers have changed for the drive spindle and strut, these numbers aren’t what were on my 2012 ML. They recommended replacing both sides at once. WIS also says that when you replace the old part number with the new one, you need to replace the old gas strut with the new one. I’m not sure what actually changed from the old part numbers, but if replacing both means I may not have to buy them for a while, I figured it was worth it.
Peter, I think when I did this in October I just pried those caps off from the side with a screwdriver and they came off in one piece. I think Mercedes must expect you to destroy the caps though because when I got the new gas strut and drive spindle from the dealer they said I needed two new caps for the bottom of the struts as well. I had more trouble getting the wire off the top anchor points, I basically had to destroy the wire to get it out (new struts come with new wires).
Here are part numbers:
001-998-07-21 Right side bottom cap 166-982-07-09 Left side bottom cap
166-890-00-00 Right side drive spindle 166-980-36-64 Left side gas strut
Part numbers have changed for the drive spindle and strut, these numbers aren’t what were on my 2012 ML. They recommended replacing both sides at once. WIS also says that when you replace the old part number with the new one, you need to replace the old gas strut with the new one. I’m not sure what actually changed from the old part numbers, but if replacing both means I may not have to buy them for a while, I figured it was worth it.
Thanks so much for the tips. I shall try to pry them off. Thanks for the Part #s too!
UPDATE:
I see what I was doing wrong with the caps - you just need to pry them off by pulling from the middle top and bottom. I was trying to pry them off from the side edges and that's why they cracked.
The end baskets seemed easy ro remove in my case by putting a screwdriver under the center cross wire which lifts the two other wires up. Just three eighths of an inch and the strut releases. Reverse to fit. Also, you're right - that hatch is heavy! I used an adjustable steel pole like the ones to change light bulbs in high ceilings to hold it up.
I fitted both sides which were dated 2011 so I knew both had never been replaced. As folks have mentioned, part of the reason for failure of the power right side is likely a worn left side strut. I saw that myself as the left one was actually shot!
I paid around $50 for the left and $180 for the right from eBay, free shipping. Not OEM Mercedes, so we'll see how long they last! The stealership wanted $1,100 to supply and fit both struts.
Last edited by petergusa; Feb 1, 2021 at 01:24 PM.
Hi, I'm stuck trying to remove the blue electrical plug as it's not easily accessible through the access panel in the boot/trunk. How did you guys get to it? Thanks
It isn't easy to reach and is a job you do by feel.
I used a mirror to see what I needed to do before groping around to undo the plug. A smarter person would take a photo of the plug with their phone but I never thought of it.
It isn't easy to reach and is a job you do by feel.
I used a mirror to see what I needed to do before groping around to undo the plug. A smarter person would take a photo of the plug with their phone but I never thought of it.
Getting it back on/in is just as much fun.
Thank you. Your encouragement made me believe it was possible and I succeeded! If not for your post i probably would have started to unscrew more of the car to try to get to it! New liftgate working perfectly. Thank you.
It isn't easy to reach and is a job you do by feel.
I used a mirror to see what I needed to do before groping around to undo the plug. A smarter person would take a photo of the plug with their phone but I never thought of it.
Getting it back on/in is just as much fun.
I was trying this last night. I took photos, but I cannot get the old one unplugged. New strut is on, but not powered as a result.
Anyone have tips to get the plug out? I can reach up in there, I can pull down the clip holding the plug in, but there is not enough space to pull it out, not with my hand in there. I tried putting a screwdriver up there to pry it from the side when I have the clip down. I have tried various things to stick in the hole to keep the clip down and pull. I laid on my back in the truck to stick my head in to get a "with my own eyes perspective.
For me, it looks like I am going to have to remove that whole side panel.
8/18 UPDATE: I replaced both struts and the liftgate properly closes with the button on the bottom of the liftgate, driver's door button, as well as the remote. However, it will not raise on it's own using any of the power options. I had a second set sent to me and I have the exact same problem. I saw someone mention that once they are replaced, I need to "reprogram' them to operate properly and that has to be the issue as I can't imagine I had two defective sets sent to me in a row. Is that the case and if so, what are the steps?
Also, for all of you stating how hard it is to access the wire harness connector, it is much easier to remove the carpeted side panel just like when I replaced the auxiliary battery. Don't get me wrong, it's a pain removing all. of the screws, clips, etc., but it is still easier than trying to work in that very small space.
8/18 UPDATE: I replaced both struts and the liftgate properly closes with the button on the bottom of the liftgate, driver's door button, as well as the remote. However, it will not raise on it's own using any of the power options. I had a second set sent to me and I have the exact same problem. I saw someone mention that once they are replaced, I need to "reprogram' them to operate properly and that has to be the issue as I can't imagine I had two defective sets sent to me in a row. Is that the case and if so, what are the steps?
Also, for all of you stating how hard it is to access the wire harness connector, it is much easier to remove the carpeted side panel just like when I replaced the auxiliary battery. Don't get me wrong, it's a pain removing all. of the screws, clips, etc., but it is still easier than trying to work in that very small space.
I am taking mine into my guy next week, they are going to look at the rear gate. They said it probably needs to be coded it is there. I will update Monday.
"Unable to successfully Normalize Tailgate. Tried several times to perform Normalizing using different procedures, but no success. tailgate will not normalize. Cannot find any DTC codes stored either. Suspect an issue with the Module, will need further diagnosis"
I approved the further diagnosis.
Also, new rear wiper arm, it broke yesterday. I could replace that myself, but since they have it already.
More details. There was an open circuit detected on diagnostics (not reported by the vehicle itself). Either there is something wrong with the strut or it has damaged the module that controls it. I am told this can happen. They needed the MB part to see if it was the strut or the module. I have been living with it for a few months now so I am used to it not opening by the button or fob.
Hello MBWorld..
As a long-time lurker, I finally found a way to contribute. I replaced my passenger strut on my 14 w166 using the info here and this video I found on youtube. The entire job was well under an hour and I only really needed a screwdriver and two torx bits. I followed the video step by step and had no issues. I did not have to reprogram. I purchased the strut from my local dealer who quoted me $690. I called another local dealer and found the OEM part for $418 and asked my dealer to match. Aftermarket replacements were available for about $100 less but the shipping and delivery times didn't work for me.
For everyone reading this thread.. some (hopefully) helpful tips:
The left (driver side) strut wears out first. It is a gas strut like on a regular non-powered hatch. The hatch is HEAVY so this strut wears first.
This then puts a lot of strain on the right (passenger) strut.
I noticed my hatch was getting erratic with closing. Almost closing and needing a final push, creaky noises when shutting, etc.
Listened closely and the left strut was making the creaking. Kind of like the two outer plastic covers were rubbing. I actually sprayed lubricant thinking that would fix it. Didn’t do a thing.
Replaced the left strut and all is good again. So definitely check your left strut first! The right strut will stop powering the rear door, but the left strut will cause all kinds of other problems.
Easy to remove..
Open hatch and get a 2x4 to prop it open. Don’t try with a broom stick. Have a 2x4 and maybe cut it to length if required. Have someone hold the 2x4 just to be safe. Hatch is HEAVY and you don’t want it hitting your head!
pull off the lower cap covering the metal clip (you will destroy the cover most likely.. they are cheap to replace)
Grab a pair of needle nose and pull the center piece of wire out from the wire retaining clip. It looks like a wound up wire and you grab the center and pull hard.
You may destroy the wire clip or it may come out just fine. Doesn’t matter because the new strut has new clips.
Do the same at the top
Put the new strut on and push it hard onto the ball mount. The retaining clip will cause it to snap on and stay on. Maybe hit it with the palm of your hand if necessary.
I didn’t have to normalize the door or anything.. just put the new left strut on and everything works perfectly like new!
Also don’t buy aftermarket struts.. have heard they suck. The MB strut is more expensive but you don’t want to have to redo this job again in a year! Lots of aftermarket all over Amazon and Aliexpress and they are all pretty much garbage. Look online for an MB vendor that sells OEM parts cheaper than your local dealer.. there are lots around.
For everyone reading this thread.. some (hopefully) helpful tips:
The left (driver side) strut wears out first. It is a gas strut like on a regular non-powered hatch. The hatch is HEAVY so this strut wears first.
This then puts a lot of strain on the right (passenger) strut.
I noticed my hatch was getting erratic with closing. Almost closing and needing a final push, creaky noises when shutting, etc.
Listened closely and the left strut was making the creaking. Kind of like the two outer plastic covers were rubbing. I actually sprayed lubricant thinking that would fix it. Didn’t do a thing.
Replaced the left strut and all is good again. So definitely check your left strut first! The right strut will stop powering the rear door, but the left strut will cause all kinds of other problems.
Easy to remove..
Open hatch and get a 2x4 to prop it open. Don’t try with a broom stick. Have a 2x4 and maybe cut it to length if required. Have someone hold the 2x4 just to be safe. Hatch is HEAVY and you don’t want it hitting your head!
pull off the lower cap covering the metal clip (you will destroy the cover most likely.. they are cheap to replace)
Grab a pair of needle nose and pull the center piece of wire out from the wire retaining clip. It looks like a wound up wire and you grab the center and pull hard.
You may destroy the wire clip or it may come out just fine. Doesn’t matter because the new strut has new clips.
Do the same at the top
Put the new strut on and push it hard onto the ball mount. The retaining clip will cause it to snap on and stay on. Maybe hit it with the palm of your hand if necessary.
I didn’t have to normalize the door or anything.. just put the new left strut on and everything works perfectly like new!
Also don’t buy aftermarket struts.. have heard they suck. The MB strut is more expensive but you don’t want to have to redo this job again in a year! Lots of aftermarkets all over Amazon and Aliexpress and they are all pretty much garbage. Look online for an MB vendor that sells OEM parts cheaper than your local dealer.. there are lots around.
Good info @bha1 . My x166 GL450 tailgate opening is a little erratic now - sometimes it opens fine, and sometimes it needs a little push to help it along the way - I suppose this means the motorized spindle (right) is fine but maybe the gas strut is worn and not providing enough support? So from the description sounds like to replace the left side there is no need to take out and trim pieces inside the trunk. That sounds easy enough I will give it a try in replacing the left first...
Last edited by byroncheung; Mar 23, 2023 at 09:38 AM.
Was trying to take my left side strut off to see if it was bad, proactively (see how much pressure it had), released from top ball and mostly slid off fine (btw, the wire doesnt need 2 come completely out just lifted to release the 2 side retaining wires off ball joint) but the top doesnt clear edge of liftgate to come off. Does all of the plastic tailgate trim around that area have to be removed to get the top of strut off? How didd you guys get the top off past the edge of the tailgate?
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