When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wondering if anyone has had their rear hub flange replaced or repaired on their W166 as mine appears to have an odd defect. Looking to see how involved it is especially with Airmatic, all I could find are videos on the E and S sedans. Parts lookup also refers to W/O Airmatic only. A WIS would be appreciated.
Appears just that the hub flange lip is bent out-of-round. Everything else looks and behaves as normal. Would be a tremendous hassle if ever needed to change a flat or something on the road.
It's subtle only can really see it from an angle. Bulges outward hence making wheel mount/demount difficult.
Had the car from mile 7 and only been at dealer service for rotations. Recently mounted new tire at new dealer and found it.
Never seen anything like it hence the post. Not sure how something that hardened can take a bend like that in such a small area.
Last edited by bluegene; Apr 15, 2023 at 07:08 PM.
It's subtle only can really see it from an angle. Bulges outward hence making wheel mount/demount difficult.
Had the car from mile 7 and only been at dealer service for rotations. Recently mounted new tire at new dealer and found it.
Never seen anything like it hence the post. Not sure how something that hardened can take a bend like that in such a small area.
It was struck locally, for example by a hammer when removing brake discs. Where did you have the discs most recently changed?
If the only problem you are experiencing is difficult wheel dismount, I would file or grind away the protruding area. It seems like a very small protrusion. The terminus of the hub serves no functional or safety purpose. The wheel is piloted on the hub at the brake disc face.
What looks strange is the hub flange appears concave all along it's radius. it should be tapered from the outside smaller to the inside edge larger/flat. It looks like the wheel may have been loose at some point ? Or someone hammered the hub flange? Do you have aftermarket wheels? Anyhow, yes, replacement is your best option as this is what centers the wheel and holds the weight of the car together with the wheel bolts. I haven't changed a 166 hub, but usually replacement requires removing the spindle, using a press to remove the hub which will destroy the bearing, removing a large circlip for the bearing and then replacing both parts. It's roughly a 4-6 hour job for an experienced tech with proper tools.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Apr 16, 2023 at 09:57 PM.
@chassis Yes I might go this route if ELW doesn't cover it, Nothing else seems wrong with it. @E55Greasemonkey Here's another picture head on. I agree it's weird, thicker on the outside. Something really hard hit at the dealer or it came like that from the factory, because it's been nowhere else with nothing but the stock wheels.
PS posted in the M forum as I figured hub bearings may fail over time, but looks like MB got Toyota/Lexus beat here at least.
Last edited by bluegene; Apr 17, 2023 at 12:15 AM.
Can you PM me your VIN number? I'd like to look at the service history, or if you know if that wheel bearing has ever been replaced. It's possible someone used a hydraulic pull/press tool improperly to replace the bearing while still installed on the car.
I once had a truck on which I (foolishly) had the rotor turned at a local garage. When it was returned to me the hub was flared in the same manner as the photo above.
@E55Greasemonkey I agree with the press theory something with substantial force was on it, or it came like that from the factory and multiple wheel mounts/dismounts "smoothed" the outer lip. I just can't imagine a hammer having that much press force without leaving a divot. @rapidoxidation Everything should be factory original. Never had a rotor turned is that done without dismounting it?
The shop that flared my hub had done so by removing the rotor from the truck and mounting it in the turning machine a bit too tightly.
the shop "fixed" it by removing the rotor again and hammering the flange down. With a hammer. I don't go to that shop any more.
@E55Greasemonkey I agree with the press theory something with substantial force was on it, or it came like that from the factory and multiple wheel mounts/dismounts "smoothed" the outer lip. I just can't imagine a hammer having that much press force without leaving a divot. @rapidoxidation Everything should be factory original. Never had a rotor turned is that done without dismounting it?
I looked at your service history, and as you said nothing stands out that would cause this. Rear pads and rotors were recently done. Very strange indeed, I've never seen such a thing. Is the other side of the car good?
