Got it last year - all was fine until a couple months ago when it started stuttering.
Not all the time but only when starting it in the morning (cold) or after sitting for a while in a parking lot.

When it does it, there is a really really thick smoke coming out of the exhaust.
Sometimes it stalls sometimes not and it's starting to gain a bit of speed, then right past the speed when the doors lock, it acts like I was flooring it - lots of smoke and angry neighbors - then it drives normally.

The guy I took it from told me that dpf is deleted (bypassed? - not sure of the term) and the connector on the rear right (trunk) is disconnected.

The error I get is something about the def sensor ( 18A800 - signal of component N74 soot particulate sensor is implausible) - Sensor only is ~$400-$500 but not sure if it will solve the issue
When I installed a hitch, the mechanic told me the adblue lines are busted (probably the reason the previous owner deleted the dpf) ~2k for the lines

On the 25th I have an appointment for the class action modification. but not sure if I'm going to be able to drive it after that since the busted lines will certainly trigger the starts countdown.

Friend suggested I clone the current computer and take the cloned one to the shop for the field measure to be overwritten by them, it will set me back around $400-$500. This way I could put the original computer back if the countdown starts and keep driving till I'll be able to replace the lines.

Lately I've watched some videos about XENTRY pass-through and and openport 2.0 (tactrix or clones) which seem to be able to reset the count.

Can't do the lines yet and I need the car to commute. What would you do in my shoes?
Any advice is welcome.
Thanks

 

You knowingly bought a poorly maintained and molested car and you are asking for opinions on what the rest of us would do? Most of us wouldn't have touched it with a 10-foot pole in the first place.

Good luck with getting the "class action modification" done. You'd first need to make $10K+ worth of repairs to it and revert everything back to OEM before Mercedes will touch it.

 

Thanks, that was really helpful.
Bucket of cold ice.

 

What you are asking here is like saying "I want 2 plus 2 to equal 5... what would you do in my shoes?"

You want helpful advice? Part it out and sell the parts so you can recoup some/all of your money. Or find someone willing to illegally work on it - because reputable shops get sued and lose their licenses for installing and maintaining systems and components that defeat the emission control systems. Or set fire to it and make a claim from the insurance company... whatever floats your boat. But you're not going to get Mercedes or any other reputable shop to do anything to the emission control system - which is the part you're having problem with - without first putting it all back to working condition, which may possibly end up costing you more than what you paid for the car. You knowingly made a decision to get a molested car, so now that the chickens have come home to roost, you have to live with the consequences.

 

I will stay away from the dealership. I don't think they will work on your vehicle. Dpf deleted is a good thing, you just have to figure out what caused the check engine light. Where you located? Try to look for German vehicle specialist in your area. Plus, if your dpf deleted, you should never get the count down message. It probably wasn't done it correctly. Ignore the keyboard warrior, he is famous for that.

 

Agree the dealer likely won’t help due to the modifications.

You need to find someone who knows what they are doing.

Sorry to say but it sounds like the work is beyond your capabilities. Therefore the sooner you find a shop you can trust, the better.

Smoke out the tailpipe is unburned fuel. Or coolant. You need to find out which it is.

 

Thanks for the advice GLK Super Fan!
I'm in Ontario, N of Toronto.
I'll start looking for a N74 soot particulate sensor and start by replacing that.
It's frustrating that there's no other code found whatsoever and can't see how this sensor would make it bucking like that.
If there were insufficient air or injector issues it would make sense but again, no codes for that.
Most likely the dpf was not properly deleted.
Is it possible to "delete" the dpf again - properly this time - or I would need the initial computer image for that (before deletion)?
Thanks again!

 

Thanks chassis, coolant level is constant (I check it regularly) so it must be diesel...
went to a couple of small shops but since there's no other code, they suggested to replace the dpf sensor or clone the computer in the right-front wheel-well install the field measure (if they agree to do it), then put back the original computer with the dpf removed - hoping the problem will go away.
there's no certainty :|
can a badly deleted dpf be properly deleted again?

 

Get rid of it, the om642 engine is junk, it will never be a reliable car and it doesn't seem like you're in the position to keep dumping money into a depreciating appliance.

 

nobody would buy it in this state.
After I'll somehow fix it I can start thinking about it.
Thanks for your input

 

There are volumes written about the OM642 on this site. Time to sit down and spend a couple of hours reading the posts with the most replies. This will help you narrow down the root causes.

 

Thanks, already started