ohitsthatguy

Hello,

I am removing the intake manifold to reach a camshaft position sensor. Has anyone been able to successfully remove the middle foam piece over those two rear screws holding the manifold down? The WIS states "Remove partition wall between wheel wells".

I have found oil on the plug to the ECU (no codes yet). To remedy, I am replacing the 4 camshaft position sensors, and the 4 camshaft solenoids, and plan to spray the harness on both ends, with electric cleaner multiple times.

Does this usually solve the problem? Any advice on the two rear bolts for the manifold?

TIA

chassis

marcanders

They also make these little throw away harnesses you may want to put to protect the harness. Make sure it fits your model.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2711500156

You have to remove the partition wall. I was able to get the manifold loose enough to squeeze in and replace the bank 2 exhaust, but I didn’t put it back on securely and there was a small leak.

vinceC

The video is for a sedan. The ML is very different - the firewall center piece sits low over the rear of the plenum. That piece is supposed to be removable, but I was not able to extract it after removing all the screws (the bottom screws are REALLY hard to reach).

marcanders

I tried to do it 2 weeks ago and gave up. I gave up as the intake was loose enough where I was able to squeeze underneath to replace that bank 2 exhaust sensor. Of course all the movement messed up the seal putting it back on and I had an intake leak. It didn’t fix my problem (subsequently it was a bad camshaft that’s being replaced) so it’s at the shop and they are dealing with it. I know this doesn’t help but Know it does need to come off, I know this video isn’t helpful but it’s the best I was able to find as well. Take away all the rubber and plastic and good luck!

juanmor40

For completeness, and future readers. Once you work on the ML/GLE a bit, the first steps become common sense and after that, it is nearly identical to the sedan. The main difference, to me, it is the height. Either way both heights bug me, to low I need to bend, too high I need a step to climb

chassis

The dash plenum is trivially easy to remove. Remove the two corner pieces then the middle piece. Engine is nearly identical in all contemporary installations for 205, 212/213 and 166.

vinceC

The middle piece is the problem. I would like to see a video of someone actually removing it. After removing all the fasteners I could not get mine out. Maybe I'm just not talented enough.

chassis

This video is not perfect, but helps to get more of the idea.


This guy didn't remove the center piece.

marcanders

you’re talking about this thing, right? Getting to the back bolts and vacuum line is impossible with this thing, right?

vinceC

That is the piece of the partition that causes the grief. I tried to remove it to do spark plugs per the MB WIS instructions. I removed all the side pieces, cowl seal, etc. but even though I had removed all the fasteners I could not extract the piece. I searched the web and even talked to some dealer techs. Everyone did what I ended up doing - do the plugs without removing the center piece of the partition. I appreciate the efforts made on this thread so far but I haven't yet seen anyone actually extracting that panel. My ML shows no signs of oil leakage so I am not in the immediate need to remove that part. But if it becomes necessary I'll probably turn the job over to the dealer.

marcanders

At a bare minimum, if you’re concerned about the oil leaking into the wiring harness, you can do 3 of the 4 of them without removing the intake and you can see if you can put those throw away harness extenders on. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2711500156