M-Class (W166) Produced 2012-2015

May need camshaft adjuster replacement

Old Feb 16, 2025 | 12:34 PM
  #26  
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To disconnect them all, I need to remove the top engine cover, the one that is secured by 4 bolts, right?
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Old Feb 16, 2025 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pahanorlando
To disconnect them all, I need to remove the top engine cover, the one that is secured by 4 bolts, right?
Not that easy. If you lift the intake plenum, and damage the seals your current problem will be the less important thing
Need to watch a video before proceeding. Do not jump on this w/o
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Old Feb 16, 2025 | 06:33 PM
  #28  
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2013 ML550 US spec. Air+Offroad pkg
I have the W278, the V8 version. I can get to all 4 pretty easily from front. Your V6 looks like more of a rats nest.
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Old Feb 16, 2025 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Leetom
Check the cam position sensors which are on the top of cam covers (2 per bank, 4 total), not the VVT magnets shown in your video. The Position sensors are much more common to leak inside electrical connector than the magnets.

100% exactly!

The leakers are on top !!
They are 99% guaranteed to leak, cooked by engine heatsoaks.

Go in prepared for repairs with new parts :
  1. CPS $50Ea x4
  2. Pigtails x4
  3. intake green seals kit

It will leak again in less than 20kMi unless you cancel the extreme heatsoaks from dry pistons.
Pigtails will temporarily help save harness by being replaced.


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 17, 2025 at 12:02 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2025 | 11:23 PM
  #30  
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Thank you all. I'll try to remove the main top cover sometime this week. There are not too many videos on how to do it, but it seems like 2 bolts are easy to get to and 2 are really tough to get to.

If you have any tips or know of any good videos on it, please let me know.
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Old Feb 17, 2025 | 11:29 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by pahanorlando
Thank you all. I'll try to remove the main top cover sometime this week. There are not too many videos on how to do it, but it seems like 2 bolts are easy to get to and 2 are really tough to get to.

If you have any tips or know of any good videos on it, please let me know.
You mean intake manifold by "top cover", correct?
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Old Feb 17, 2025 | 11:36 PM
  #32  
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Yes. The one that is not the easy to remove cover lol
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Old Feb 18, 2025 | 11:40 PM
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Old Feb 19, 2025 | 09:16 AM
  #34  
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Thanks, That's definitely very advanced just to check connectors lol

I read somewhere online that removing air filter housing will give me access for one of the connectors. I might do that first to see what I have.
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Old Feb 19, 2025 | 07:54 PM
  #35  
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Removed air filter housing and was able to disconnect one cam position sensor. Connector is definitely oily. Now will have to order all the parts. I saw comment here to get pigtails x4. Is there a link for it? Also, apparently original sensors will leak again, have anyone had experience with aftermarket versions? perhaps they could be better?

I also might have to inspect area more for valve cover leaks and maybe do spark plugs since removing intake manifold is not an easy task.


Also, while removing airbox housing, I noticed bolt in the back was missing, but also no mounting location. Does it look like mounting thread I have there is damaged and crooked? And front bolt was not holding airbox in place. It seems like some kind of washer that is between the bolt and airbox housing was missing. Is the washer thing a common replaceable part? any links or part numbers available? Thanks


Last edited by pahanorlando; Feb 19, 2025 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2025 | 08:06 PM
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In the future, you can change the spark plugs w/o removing the intake plenum. I have done it this way on the E350 and the ML350. It is a trade off.

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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 10:32 PM
  #37  
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Thanks. Just looked at another possible leak,

Is it the magnet piece? Does it have a gasket? Or I should replace complete magnet thing altogether?

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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 10:45 PM
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What I see is dirt around the magnets. I would clean them up with a wet rag with some degreaser/brake cleaner.

There are three possible sources of oil around the magnets:
1 - spill over during oil services/ top off if missing oil
2 - bad magnet o-ring which can be bought individually
3 - oil wicking through the magnet's electrical connector. For this one to later spill out of the connector and create this, it must be massive. Unlikely, but theoretically possible.
I do not see oil around the timing covers which would run along the surface.

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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 07:22 AM
  #39  
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Thanks. I inspected connector already and its dry. So its one of the first two, which is free or cheap. Thanks again
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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 01:51 PM
  #40  
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Hello all, just found time to make a video of cold start


That is youtube link to cold start of the vehicle.

Here is where I am kind of stuck. If I to replace the camshaft adjuster, it cost about $440 or so, which is somewhat doable. Some have experience camshaft been misaligned and that part cost $750. Used engine I believe cost about $3000 right now, but eventually definitely will be cheaper.

So is it even worth touching any of it? lol So far still I don't have check engine light and the error only shows up if I run my professional scanner.

Let me know what you would do in that situation? Thanks
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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 03:36 PM
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cold start racket

Originally Posted by pahanorlando
Hello all, just found time to make a video of cold start

Cold Start

That is youtube link to cold start of the vehicle.

Here is where I am kind of stuck. If I to replace the camshaft adjuster, it cost about $440 or so, which is somewhat doable. Some have experience camshaft been misaligned and that part cost $750. Used engine I believe cost about $3000 right now, but eventually definitely will be cheaper.

So is it even worth touching any of it? lol So far still I don't have check engine light and the error only shows up if I run my professional scanner.

Let me know what you would do in that situation? Thanks
you said you are seeing a fault code??
The repairs are based on troubleshooting.

The rattle can be tensioner or VVT Phaser, including camshafts or not... likely limited to Bank2 Intake.

Additional options are Bk1 and exhausts.
While you are in there, consider CPS sensors + pigtails.

These parts fail due to limited stock oil pressure.


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Sep 21, 2025 at 03:51 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 10:13 PM
  #42  
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Yeah, nothing on dashboard, but with professional scanner it does.

What would be the troubleshooting part? You think it might not be camshaft adjuster after all?

I did replace camshaft position sensors already, half were filled with oil inside connectors, but did not fix the issue.
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Old Sep 21, 2025 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by pahanorlando
Yeah, nothing on dashboard, but with professional scanner it does.

What would be the troubleshooting part? You think it might not be camshaft adjuster after all?

I did replace camshaft position sensors already, half were filled with oil inside connectors, but did not fix the issue.
Oh boy. You should have mentioned that from the start. How did you clean up the harness? Did you check the other end of the harness? ECU connector to be explicit, what is it dry?
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 07:46 AM
  #44  
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I replaced the sensors, other end of of connectors was cleaned with WD Contact Cleaner. Recently had to remove ECU while replacing spark plugs and those connectors were clean and dry.
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 06:39 PM
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TENSIONERS + VVT PHASERS

Originally Posted by pahanorlando
Yeah, nothing on dashboard, but with professional scanner it does.

What would be the troubleshooting part? You think it might not be camshaft adjuster after all?

I did replace camshaft position sensors already, half were filled with oil inside connectors, but did not fix the issue.
Both VVT or Tensioners can produce startup rattle.

Intake VVT phasers need physical inspection to see they stay locked or snap forward ie. failed.

FYI: leaking tensioners help VVT fail on extra low oil pressure. Cheap chain tensioners are maintenance items.

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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 11:24 PM
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Thank you! Is there any guide on how to physically inspect them? Is it by removing camshaft position sensor and checking under the sensor location?
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Old Sep 23, 2025 | 06:51 AM
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QUICK INSPECTION SHORTCUT

Originally Posted by pahanorlando
Thank you! Is there any guide on how to physically inspect them?

Is it by removing camshaft position sensor and checking under the sensor location?
Yes, you can try doing it that way by manually rotating crank while you watch or listen for VVT snapping forward.
Focus on your driver-side INTAKE VVT phaser.

The conventional way is by opening the upper timing cover afront of phasers. Single Bank or both sides.

> QUICK SHORTCUT ...
There may be a great plan B....
Only remove the SOLENOID-MAGNETS FOR INSPECTIONS!
-- Not the big plastic intake to access top CPS
-- Not the leaking timing covers with one time-use aluminum screws


The VVT front solenoids are used for quick inspection access instead of opening both timing cover with RTV sealant.


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Sep 23, 2025 at 09:06 AM.
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Old Sep 24, 2025 | 09:14 AM
  #48  
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Thank you so much,

So I'll have to remove solenoid magnet that is on driver's side closest to the center of the engine, rotate crank and check for clicks, noises, snapping etc.

Sounds simple enough. I'll post update when I get there. Thanks again!
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Old Sep 24, 2025 | 10:09 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by pahanorlando
Thank you so much,

So I'll have to remove solenoid magnet that is on driver's side closest to the center of the engine, rotate crank and check for clicks, noises, snapping etc.

Sounds simple enough. I'll post update when I get there. Thanks again!
Well said: exactly!
Nice and easy inspection.

"Do it once, do it right" courtesy of JC & Cali.



Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Sep 24, 2025 at 10:14 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2025 | 12:00 AM
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I removed the cover and rotated crankshaft. I did not get any noise, clicks or anything else, but to be honest I am not convinced that I do not have an adjuster issue as according to some mercedes shop video, the engine code I got and that specific adjuster is supposedly very common on those engines. I'll do more research though. I'll drop video of the adjuster moving in a couple of days here.

The mercedes shop video I've seen also claim that if that adjuster is left untouched, it could also damage the camshaft behind the adjuster. Adjuster is about $450 on fcpeuro and that camshaft behind is $850 lol

Here is the video I was talking about, where they talk about common issues of those engines

1:05 to about 2:27

Has someone had code P001885 point to chain tensioners? It is a lot easier to replace the tensioner obviously than adjuster, but they're also not that cheap.
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