May need camshaft adjuster replacement
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
I removed the cover and rotated crankshaft. I did not get any noise, clicks or anything else, but to be honest I am not convinced that I do not have an adjuster issue as according to some mercedes shop video, the engine code I got and that specific adjuster is supposedly very common on those engines. I'll do more research though. I'll drop video of the adjuster moving in a couple of days here.
The mercedes shop video I've seen also claim that if that adjuster is left untouched, it could also damage the camshaft behind the adjuster. Adjuster is about $450 on fcpeuro and that camshaft behind is $850 lol
Here is the video I was talking about, where they talk about common issues of those engines
Starts at 1:05 1:05 to about 2:27
Has someone had code P001885 point to chain tensioners? It is a lot easier to replace the tensioner obviously than adjuster, but they're also not that cheap.
The mercedes shop video I've seen also claim that if that adjuster is left untouched, it could also damage the camshaft behind the adjuster. Adjuster is about $450 on fcpeuro and that camshaft behind is $850 lol
Here is the video I was talking about, where they talk about common issues of those engines
Starts at 1:05 1:05 to about 2:27
Has someone had code P001885 point to chain tensioners? It is a lot easier to replace the tensioner obviously than adjuster, but they're also not that cheap.
Now here are the other contenders :
VVT Phasers, CPS, Tensioner, bad oil pressure...
ECU can sees bad Position for multiple reasons.
Walk down the list.
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For P0016,
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AND, P0018 is likely the tone wheel that has already slipped. P0016 is the equivalent code for the other cam and that means -> Either a new camshaft with the tone wheel in the correct place, or "craftman work" on the camshaft and reposition the tone wheel. Even a new camshaft must be treated like a baby; otherwise, the tone wheel can slip if incorrectly thrown or forced into position.
For P0016,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp6gMmkfd4Q
For P0016,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp6gMmkfd4Q
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That's a lot of interesting information. I really appreciate it! On top of it replacing tensioner is a lot easier and no timing risk (at least as far as I understand), so perhaps its worth it to try it out. Of course if issue is the camshaft itself, cost of camshaft and adjuster alone is $1400 when used engine is $3000.
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2008 E350, 2012 ML350, 2014 E350, 2015 ML350
That's a lot of interesting information. I really appreciate it! On top of it replacing tensioner is a lot easier and no timing risk (at least as far as I understand), so perhaps its worth it to try it out. Of course if issue is the camshaft itself, cost of camshaft and adjuster alone is $1400 when used engine is $3000.
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
FIND ROOT CAUSE
That's a lot of interesting information. I really appreciate it! On top of it replacing tensioner is a lot easier and no timing risk (at least as far as I understand), so perhaps its worth it to try it out. Of course if issue is the camshaft itself, cost of camshaft and adjuster alone is $1400 when used engine is $3000.
These cars are built to be very predictable based on mileage and service.
Do not replace genuine parts without testing their pass/fail status:
- The leaking CPS
- The leaking tensioners
- The unlocked VVT Phasers
- The shifted camshafts reluctor
- The contaminated Phasers control valve strainers
If all good, then enjoy else repair.
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Thanks for another great tip! So if my adjuster is good (I'll have video here in a couple of days), instead of replacing tensioner, I can check if its bad? and if adjuster is good and I already replaced the camshaft position sensors, what else could it be? Can it be camshaft itself with adjuster itself working properly?
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
SMART CAMSHAFTS SHORTCUTS
Thanks for another great tip!
So if my adjuster is good (I'll have video here in a couple of days),
instead of replacing tensioner, I can check if its bad?
and if adjuster is good and I already replaced the camshaft position sensors, what else could it be?
Can it be camshaft itself with adjuster itself working properly?
So if my adjuster is good (I'll have video here in a couple of days),
instead of replacing tensioner, I can check if its bad?
and if adjuster is good and I already replaced the camshaft position sensors, what else could it be?
Can it be camshaft itself with adjuster itself working properly?
The ECU complains it is unable to position the camshaft in relation to crankshaft.
There may be experimental ways to preserve expensive camshafts not otherwise damaged. Study how to position crank then take your free time to gently tap reluctors back where expected.
@JCM_MB and @Baltistyle gave you all those tips already to save your resources.
Roll up your sleeves & put on your thinking cap to experiment. Faulty camshafts are normally discarded, you get to try making yours like new fir free.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 30, 2025 at 12:34 AM.
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Here is the video (about 3 min)
I have a couple of questions, I need to upgrade my 1/2 ratchet, maybe get a bigger one and a better correct size socket for crankshaft bolt to make it rotate better. Is it possible that since i was rotating it kind of slow, the test is not accurate? From what I've seen, adjuster works here as it should, do you agree? In your opinion, does the adjuster work as it should? With what you know so far, would you replace chain tensioner?
Thanks so much for your help!
I have a couple of questions, I need to upgrade my 1/2 ratchet, maybe get a bigger one and a better correct size socket for crankshaft bolt to make it rotate better. Is it possible that since i was rotating it kind of slow, the test is not accurate? From what I've seen, adjuster works here as it should, do you agree? In your opinion, does the adjuster work as it should? With what you know so far, would you replace chain tensioner?
Thanks so much for your help!
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2013 E350 4-Matic, 2008 B200 (sold), 1998 E200K, 1983 200
No matter how slow you spin the engine (note rotation in video above), if the Cam phaser is bad you WILL see it jump.
Yes, if the Cam phasers are good, I'd replace the secondary tensioners (and install check valves if applicable according to the TSB).
Cam phaser jumping:
Yes, if the Cam phasers are good, I'd replace the secondary tensioners (and install check valves if applicable according to the TSB).
Cam phaser jumping:
Last edited by pfsantos; Dec 10, 2025 at 05:40 PM.
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ml400
This is helpful for me and quite timely as I recently experienced the P0016 engine fault. Previously, I did hear a chain rattle but didn't get to the tensioner replacement in time. I took the truck to the dealer and an indy and both recommended replacing the cams. however after reviewing this it looks like I could only replace the intake cam adjuster, and the timing chain tensioners to resolve.
My question is with anyone just receiving the P0016 code is replacing the Intake Camshaft a requirement (much higher cost\investment in time\increased skills). Truck is a ML400 w/158K miles
Thanks!
Richard
My question is with anyone just receiving the P0016 code is replacing the Intake Camshaft a requirement (much higher cost\investment in time\increased skills). Truck is a ML400 w/158K miles
Thanks!
Richard
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Possible Repair Options
This is helpful for me and quite timely as I recently experienced the P0016 engine fault. Previously, I did hear a chain rattle but didn't get to the tensioner replacement in time. I took the truck to the dealer and an indy and both recommended replacing the cams. however after reviewing this it looks like I could only replace the intake cam adjuster, and the timing chain tensioners to resolve.
My question is with anyone just receiving the P0016 code is replacing the Intake Camshaft a requirement (much higher cost\investment in time\increased skills). Truck is a ML400 w/158K miles
Thanks!
Richard
My question is with anyone just receiving the P0016 code is replacing the Intake Camshaft a requirement (much higher cost\investment in time\increased skills). Truck is a ML400 w/158K miles
Thanks!
Richard
Your pick...
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ml400
I totally overlooked the correlation error and this perfectly explains why the quotes were so high. Now I just need to decide if I want to put that much money into a 2015 ML.
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
It's never a good idea to ignore MB service needs.
The phasers are carefully setup to shift camshafts reluctors that call for all new parts for no good reason. Idem with $10k oil-in-harness... It's best to keep ahead proactively.
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Just wanted to let you know, I replaced chain tensioner and so far engine starts good, but it has been only 2-3 days. Computer scanner still shows same code. I'll wait and see, but might do camshaft adjuster later.
Removing and installing tensioner was a lot tougher than expected. Had to use pry bar to move metal bracket tensioner sits on for installation. Any video I've seen did not show that.
I made video on it and will publish it on my youtube channel and here eventually.
Removing and installing tensioner was a lot tougher than expected. Had to use pry bar to move metal bracket tensioner sits on for installation. Any video I've seen did not show that.
I made video on it and will publish it on my youtube channel and here eventually.
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
a tensioner bracket
Just wanted to let you know, I replaced chain tensioner and so far engine starts good, but it has been only 2-3 days. Computer scanner still shows same code. I'll wait and see, but might do camshaft adjuster later.
Removing and installing tensioner was a lot tougher than expected. Had to use pry bar to move metal bracket tensioner sits on for installation. Any video I've seen did not show that.
I made video on it and will publish it on my youtube channel and here eventually.
Removing and installing tensioner was a lot tougher than expected. Had to use pry bar to move metal bracket tensioner sits on for installation. Any video I've seen did not show that.
I made video on it and will publish it on my youtube channel and here eventually.
Is this tensioner bracket for chain or belt ?
What engine bank is located:
- Bk2- driver side ?
- Bk1- passenger side?
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Driver's side. I got it to 4/0 TDC where I could see the camshaft adjuster marks at bottom, which my understanding is where I needed them for tensioner replacement.
The shifting reluctor back in its place for free is veeery confusing lol
The shifting reluctor back in its place for free is veeery confusing lol
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
delayed maintenance repairs
- 2x Intake Phasers
- 2x Tensioners
- (New camshaft-reluctors)
- HPFP + Roller follower
Notice the camshaft wear marks... show a hard working duty - Don't ignore replacing roller (+ HPFP) to save new Bk1 Intake camshaft from lobes damage.
Early on factory added an external check-valve to the tensioner oil supply. We later found out the ratcheting tensioners already has a built-in check valve.
Rattling is caused by limited oil pressure that overworks the VVT locks + limp tensioners.
More effective oiling goes a long way with these engines.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 15, 2026 at 03:58 PM.
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2014 ML63, 2018 GLC43, 1929 DB victory six sports roadster
My M278 (2013 V8 biturbo) engine appears to have similar issue. Occasional longer cranking to start (3 or 4 seconds vs 1 second), and the occasional chain rattle. Sounds like passenger/right side (US spec) is the problem child (thats where the occasional chain rattle is coming from). Would love to see a DIY on replacement other than ones Ive found. However, I wonder if just changing out the one bad cam adjuster is sufficient, or if that is going bad, is it time to change all of the adjuster (4), tensioners (2), chain guides, and timing chains (3 I think) as well? I have similar questions: 1) is this a repair that can wait until it throws a light, or should it be rectified soon? 2) What is considered "good" oil to reduce wear? Ive always used Mobile1, but local german car shop told me Motul is much better, and I should stop using Mobile1. If the major maintenance is recommended (chains and all associated parts), thats gonna be a big bill. Advice/experience welcome!
long crank with code P10685.
It has a lot to do with the reluctor wheel moving on the camshaft. If it gets out by 7 degrees it will give a long crank. It’s an extremely easy fix if you’re game. Costs nothing.
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W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
reluctor quick fix 👍
I did this repair with the long crank on my M278. I have done a full thread on it on Benzworld just search
long crank with code P10685.
It has a lot to do with the reluctor wheel moving on the camshaft. If it gets out by 7 degrees it will give a long crank. It’s an extremely easy fix if you’re game. Costs nothing.
long crank with code P10685.
It has a lot to do with the reluctor wheel moving on the camshaft. If it gets out by 7 degrees it will give a long crank. It’s an extremely easy fix if you’re game. Costs nothing.
a few ppl want to believe unofficial repairs not in WIS are not legit...
The way this is setup to fail warrant a great quick fix.
How do you know where exactly to stop pushing reluctor? looking through CPS openings?
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Last edited by JCM_MB; Feb 16, 2026 at 07:47 AM.
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I sold the car at 250,000km and it’s still going strong as far as I know. I feel very confident it’s a good fix but before doing it I would strongly recommend checking the cam shaft position to make sure the reluctor wheel is the cause. There’s a fair chance there is a lot of still good camshafts out there.
I tried to post a link on here but I can’t link anything to this forum. I know I’m the problem with that.
I tried to post a link on here but I can’t link anything to this forum. I know I’m the problem with that.
