Hard riding Airmatic
The rear end seems to have very little travel.
As if it is bottoming out on speed bumps.
I have been to two different independent shops with no signs of leaking or seepage so conclusion.
The car is always level, the compressor is not constantly running.
It will raise and lower on command.
Comfort or sport make no difference.
No codes.
Is there some kind of "reset" for the Airmatic to "cure" this harsh condition?
I did have a PPI with no issues (must not of driven it).
Please help, I may end up selling this one if not resolved.
I wonder if the airmatic shocks (not the airbags) have an electrical issue. Does unplugging the electrics on the shocks make a difference?
Curious how much you paid for the car... I have the same machine in diesel form.
Edited to add: What does a scan with a good scan tool show regarding the suspension system?
Last edited by rapidoxidation; Jan 12, 2025 at 02:47 PM.
I wonder if the airmatic shocks (not the airbags) have an electrical issue. Does unplugging the electrics on the shocks make a difference?
Curious how much you paid for the car... I have the same machine in diesel form.
Edited to add: What does a scan with a good scan tool show regarding the suspension system?
Shop was fine with replacing rear shocks for $2,300 but thought there would be no change.
In Arizona MLs are a dime a dozen, take your pick from $10-$15,000. Ten for mine
Bouncing from the bumper in very stiff with car on or off
btw tires are 7 years old and at correct pressure, I have driven on hard tires and these are not hard.
Car has been garage kept and dealer maintained until 20.000 miles ago.
Many repairs on Car Fax none with suspension issues.
I do not have a lift, maybe disconnect the battery for 5 min would "reset" things?
Would this be done under the hood or at the battery?
Many of them bypass the ADS function and just have a plug that fools the system to thinking its does.
These type (of generally very cheap) shocks might be your cause.
the rear shocks in our W166's for Airmatic are 3 easy nuts to remove and replace, it will take you longer to remove the rear trunk trim to get to the top two bolts.
Might consider - Arnotts or even OEM Bilstiens if you want to go that route, be under 1K for both shocks and DIY.
cheers







