S65 AMG misfire




I have fixed my boost leak and tightend up my wastegates at the same time.
I now have an over boost code/limp mode (which I will sort tomorrow by loosening the wast gates some more!)
I also have a full load misfire at 4500 RPM on cylinders 5-6.
Is this likely to be coil pack, ignition controller or plugs.
I have no evidence of plugs being changed but will need to check the paperwork in more detail.




No more misfire codes, but also no boost above 17psi MAX
Freeze frame data for the overboost code was 22.3 Psi @ 4050 Rpm
I think I need to find the sweet spot for the wastgate arms. I suspect I will still get misfires when the boost as at the level I want it to be.
I'm not entirely convinced they are even genuine misfires or if possibly something wacky is going on with the ion current sensing. The computer shuts down cylinders after something like 12 misfires detected. So if it "thinks" it's getting a misfire...which would happen in about .02 seconds at 6000rpms, lol. My gap is tight as can be, brand new plugs, both coils brand new. Haven't replaced the ignition transformer yet (am planning on trying a second one in parallel).




If you crank them all the way down, you get the same overboost codes?
That is interesting. I am sure the overboost codes are due to the ecu not being able to open the wastegates enough due to the arms being wound all the way in and then falling outside of normal solenoid duty range.
When the tuner checked my map it was asking for 21psi. I have now had him map it up so boost should be asked for earlier and peak boost for longer. I suspect without the performance map the car would go into overboost limp earlier.
Do let me know if you have any further progress, I will do so too.




The freeze frame data for my overboost codes show it happening at 4010 RPM @ 37PSI absolute boost (- 14.7psi atmospheric for boost number), which is just past midrange as you say.
The behaviour of the wast gates tightened, VS pinching the waste gate lines was different. When pinched, it over boosted much earlier (3200-3400 rpm) vs 4000+ when the gates where tightened.
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That said, the ECU is limiting boost for some reason. From the training document, it uses a lot of factors:

I would be reluctant to just override it.
That said, if you can turn the desired boost pressure up to something high in the maps, you wont get overboost codes.
DUMD did it HERE
However, I think the primary reason is for transmission and traction reasons. These cars are capable of enormous boost pressure in the low to mid range if the turbos are allowed to spool too early. The reason for that being that most factory turbos are fairly undersized (more so in the case of the S600 than your 65) and will deliver significantly higher boost pressure in the low to mid rpms than they are capable of up top. Other cars that I've messed with will peak at least twice as high as they will hold up on the top end. So they don't necessarily make any more horsepower if you run them uncontrolled, but they make a monstrous amount of torque/cylinder pressure. I think that is the primary reason they have commanded such a weaksauce boost curve...simply to keep from wrecking transmissions.




That said, the 65 AMG should be boosting 21 PSI easily in the midrange 2500+ on the STOCK map so there is an issue there. Sure, plumbing in a boost controller will sort that out, but torque mangement should be taken over by the throttle body limitation.
I agree about the top end, the boost should taper off, which is probably why the overboost code It logged was unhappy, its essentially a boost spike, I think 23odd psi at that RPM was high, even for this car.
Also, the knock sensor will pull timing should it detect detonation.
If I can find the reason its pulling the boost and confirm its a non issue (if that makes sense) then an aftermarket boost controller would work well!
Last edited by alexanderfoti; May 7, 2017 at 04:02 PM.




It works well but you have to vac fill the system to get it full, its a nightmare!
The M279 now has a res in place of the stupid filler.
Last edited by alexanderfoti; May 7, 2017 at 04:46 PM.
I really don't think they could have designed the stock circuit much worse if they'd tried.




Nick, whilst you are here, what are you thoughts on my boost issue? My tuner has suggested increasing the solenoid duty cycle in the map, and seeing if this increase boost, as the target boost is not being met.
Changing the solenoid duty cycle is exactly what a re-map does. I think it's the only way to do it.
Nick
Position the pump at the lowest point in the system.
Fit the pump at the coolest part of the system - at the HE outlet.
Fit the pump horizontally.
Fit the pump outlet pointing upwards.
Match the normal operating point of the pump to the system curve.
From those points of view, the M275 IC system is good, but you're right about feeding the pump from a reservoir. That will give it the best chance of drawing coolant with no air.
In practice though, if you DO get air in the pump inlet, the pump turns coolant into froth and the flow rate absolutely plummets. 5% air will cost you 50% flow - something like that.
Nick




Changing the solenoid duty cycle is exactly what a re-map does. I think it's the only way to do it.
Nick
I wound in the wastegates to see whether the 15PSI was the result of the ECU limiting boost, or a natural leakage of the wastgates. I know know its being governed at 15.
The other issue here is that the re-map has done not much, if anything to the boost pressure (not sure about power output, have not had a dyno run yet).
I can see no reason why the car is limiting power output. Literally all normal avenues have been checked.




Position the pump at the lowest point in the system.
Fit the pump at the coolest part of the system - at the HE outlet.
Fit the pump horizontally.
Fit the pump outlet pointing upwards.
Match the normal operating point of the pump to the system curve.
From those points of view, the M275 IC system is good, but you're right about feeding the pump from a reservoir. That will give it the best chance of drawing coolant with no air.
In practice though, if you DO get air in the pump inlet, the pump turns coolant into froth and the flow rate absolutely plummets. 5% air will cost you 50% flow - something like that.
Nick
Vac filling helps considerably.
Thanks for the pier burg recommendation, I am very happy with the pump, although it is expensive.







