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Here's the area somewhat cleaned up.
The large copper pad is ground.
The open leg of the RUR420 diode connects to ground. Determined by checking the other side of the VT.
Not sure where the missing trace is supposed to connect yet. Haven't traced the other side enough to draw up a schematic.
I believe this was caused by old leaking caps. I removed the cap from the other half and found it had already leaked electrolyte onto the PCB ... and that had started to etch into the solder mask.
My assumption is this side was worse and the acidic electrolyte either caused a short, an open, or the cap just became too hot and ignited.
The R230 models also have a battery control module in the trunk which have a tendency to catch fire. It's directly connected to the rear battery, unfused. I'm willing to bet it's the same cause. Old bad caps.
Here's the area somewhat cleaned up.
The large copper pad is ground.
The open leg of the RUR420 diode connects to ground. Determined by checking the other side of the VT.
Not sure where the missing trace is supposed to connect yet. Haven't traced the other side enough to draw up a schematic.
I believe this was caused by old leaking caps. I removed the cap from the other half and found it had already leaked electrolyte onto the PCB ... and that had started to etch into the solder mask.
My assumption is this side was worse and the acidic electrolyte either caused a short, an open, or the cap just became too hot and ignited.
The R230 models also have a battery control module in the trunk which have a tendency to catch fire. It's directly connected to the rear battery, unfused. I'm willing to bet it's the same cause. Old bad caps.
Well this looks a lot better than it used to.
There are internal copper layer we can't see.... let's hope for the best.
The undersized caps get over worked by marginal voltages that force high currents and spikes.
The only antidote is not to rely on alternator to charge our low batteries. CTEK float charger ✌️
At your leisure, double check where is your chassis main strap located. Clean it and feel free to add a No2 and No3 strap in parallel from chassis to engine. This will help prevent A LOT of unnecessary troubles with voltage spikes.
The charging system is fine. It was just an old, tired VT. I put this one on and it runs like a dream again. Note the date code 11th week of 2020. So fairly fresh.
I also purchased the left side coil pack from the same car, dated 2020 as well. It's silly, but I get excited when I see these high failure rate, in-demand modules with recent date codes.
The VT above will be my backup, although I shouldn't need it. Because I also received this in the mail today.
Last edited by Michael Pitts; Mar 18, 2024 at 04:17 PM.
The VT above will be my backup, although I shouldn't need it. Because I also received this in the mail today.
Ooooo.... that Boost Box is cool. Looks like a new version - the one on their site doesn't have those diagnostic LEDS, nor does the description say anything about them.
My car runs fine, haven't ever had an issue, but I'll be ordering one of these soon.
This is a ME2.7.1 ecu
my tune is a modified Kleeman tune I hit 820 HP (there is hardware involved here of course, not just a tune)
I know a lot about this ecu
you can clone any tune without paying at all with a 100$ programmer
just need to unsolder the two 29f400 and direct clone them
these are the maps
I have multiple ecus for testing I virginized (that is even more easy) then adapted with xentry and cloned
Hello, do you have the maps? I don't see them attached, I would love to give it a shot at cloning them, just bought a desolder and all that, just need some maps I have a 2008 cl65 ME2.7.2, would you happen to have the map for this model?
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
