V12 Voltage Transformer repair and Upgrade
However, the newly replaced camshaft sensor is bad.
I installed the old sensors and the car ran fine. (For now)
I'll be replacing it, as it likes to work, or not based on temperature
I am wondering if the precision if the old sensors have decreased, thus allowing any timing fluctuations to become unnoticed.




However, the newly replaced camshaft sensor is bad.
I installed the old sensors and the car ran fine. (For now)
I'll be replacing it, as it likes to work, or not based on temperature
I am wondering if the precision if the old sensors have decreased, thus allowing any timing fluctuations to become unnoticed.
You can get away with replacing cam sensors without Xentry but you really want it to do complete job including reset adaptations.
It's going to be a tight one.




Even after resetting the adaptations multiple times
Someone working at Mercedes told me that these cars do not always like non-Mercedes sensors.
The original sensor came with this logo, can you identify the brand?
Also, the sensor didn't install flush with the valve cover, is this an issue? I can't tighten it up any further
Last edited by tim687; Oct 7, 2022 at 02:12 PM.




Even after resetting the adaptations multiple times
Someone working at Mercedes told me that these cars do not always like non-Mercedes sensors.
The original sensor came with this logo, can you identify the brand?
Also, the sensor didn't install flush with the valve cover, is this an issue? I can't tighten it up any further

Have you tried searching for the part number to see what description comes up with the many brands suppliers.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Any ideas about the tolerances of the sensor compared to the camshaft?
It did this before I think, but it would usually go away
The car does misfire a little at idle with 102 octane.
Starting when cold outside is still a challenge and takes some attempts
However, when using the rev-range, one cylinder is misfiring and that causes massive vibrations.
Any suggestions?
I have MISFIRE ON CYLINDER 7,8,9. Sometime 9s goes away, I replaced spark plugs and boots, MAF,MAP.
car will run good for 6 minutes until I come to a complete stop, misfire will pop up.
So right now I have code for cylinder 7,8, o2 bank 2 sensor 1 02 bank 1 sensor 1! Says heat circuit Issue.
Do I need to buy voltage transformer or coil packs?
BY the way I got 7,8,9 codes and the o2 sensor literally a week after I did a muffler delete. Kept the cats stock of course. Please let me know WHAT I GOTTA DO!!
I have MISFIRE ON CYLINDER 7,8,9. Sometime 9s goes away, I replaced spark plugs and boots, MAF,MAP.
car will run good for 6 minutes until I come to a complete stop, misfire will pop up.
So right now I have code for cylinder 7,8, o2 bank 2 sensor 1 02 bank 1 sensor 1! Says heat circuit Issue.
Do I need to buy voltage transformer or coil packs?
BY the way I got 7,8,9 codes and the o2 sensor literally a week after I did a muffler delete. Kept the cats stock of course. Please let me know WHAT I GOTTA DO!!
But if you do need to diagnose ignition issues, v12icpack.com will rent you a voltage transformer and/or coil packs for testing. Information is about halfway down their home page. You can also send in your voltage transformer to be tested for $25.
They've also just announced availability of their own redesigned/improved voltage transformer which mounts remotely instead of on top of the engine. The stock top of engine location subjects the voltage transformer to a lot of unnecessary heat, shortening its life.
But if you do need to diagnose ignition issues, v12icpack.com will rent you a voltage transformer and/or coil packs for testing. Information is about halfway down their home page. You can also send in your voltage transformer to be tested for $25.
They've also just announced availability of their own redesigned/improved voltage transformer which mounts remotely instead of on top of the engine. The stock top of engine location subjects the voltage transformer to a lot of unnecessary heat, shortening its life.
I need to find out how the 23V from the diode reaches the connector
Last edited by tim687; Aug 17, 2023 at 09:14 AM.
I can't believe this thread got derailed like this. One of the most interesting and useful threads on this board.
Last edited by Fried Chicken; Nov 2, 2023 at 10:41 AM.
One of the capacitors took a crap. Everything else is visually okay.




- low temp "cold solder" joint
- (vibrations of cap if not glues down)
- Lead-free ROHS weak solder
- high current spikes
Lucky this looks perfectly salvageable as PCB is not charcoaled.
This is your wake-up call to clean and resolder every similar solders at your earliest convenience.
Your solder iron needs to be temperature regulated to heat pins reliably within soldering temp range.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Mar 13, 2024 at 05:41 PM.
I've experienced plenty of cold solder joint failures in my lifetime, but have never seen it accompanied with burning. I haven't measured anything yet, but it looks (and smells!) to me like the cap failed. This stuff smells to high heaven. Sorta fishy mixed with the "magic smoke". This must've been on the edge for a bit because this happened at a few seconds after start up. Sounded great then almost immediately the engine tone changed and the check engine light illuminated. I suppose it was running on just 6 cylinders.
My plan is to source and replace ALL of the caps and if that fixes it, keep it as a spare. Although I shouldn't need it since I just ordered one of Clark's Boost Box replacement VTs.








