2005 C55 AMG - Fully loaded & thoroughly enjoyed!
For Sale2005 Mercedes-Benz C55 AMG
-
Price
$5,500
- Location Ann Arbor, MI, 48105, USA
- Condition Used
- VIN WDBRF76JX5F634238
- Mileage 218,000
- Engine 8 cyl
- Drive Type 2WD
- Transmission Automatic
- Vehicle Type Sedan
- Exterior Color Blue
Description:
Hello everyone,
It's finally time to sell my C55 AMG. This is a two-owner car; I originally purchased this car in 2009 with 46,000 miles, and I've had it for 9-1/2 years now with a total of 218,000 miles.
Through 2016, this was a daily driver Georgia car, and now is a Michigan car (including the winters).
This car is fully loaded:
- Diamond black metallic paint (it's actually a dark blue, and recently polished in October)
- Black leather interior (in excellent condition, surprisingly)
- Navigation (with the last version DVD from 2015)
- Black birds eye maple wood trim
- Chrome split-5 spoke wheels from a CLK55 with new tires all around
- Winter wheels and tires (17" Blizzak WS80's used for 2.5 seasons)
- Rubber floor mats/trunk liner
- Extra odds/ends/bits
What doesn't work or needs attention:
- Rear sunshade (the torx-style internal gear mechanism stripped)
- Driver side bottom seat heater (most common failure in these cars)
- Passenger side door lock is intermittent; it may need replacement in the future (I recently replaced the driver side)
- The suspension is worn out and creaks at times
- The engine leaks a little bit of oil (much less now that the oil cooler seals were replaced and passenger valve cover seal was replaced)
- Rear defroster doesn't work since the rear tint had to be scraped off
Overall, this has been a FANTASTIC car over the past decade, but now it's definitely time to go to the next owner. I foresee this car as an awesome car for anyone who wants to put in a little wrench time to get it in perfect shape, or just leave it as is and enjoy it/use it. The A/C works, electronics work, all of the basics all work without issue.
All original books, window sticker, etc will be included. This is the best deal currently on the market for a C55, and while it does have 218,000 miles, it hasn't been beat to the ground to get there.
Please message me if you have any questions.
I've also gone ahead and ordered the sunroof lube so I can get the sunroof working again.
Funny how when you sell stuff it's the best it's been in a while...
I've gone ahead and removed all of the window tint and glue from the side windows, and this weekend I'll be working on finishing off the rear window (it was looking terrible with the bubbling).
I also went ahead and re-lubed the sunroof with the special Mercedes sunroof grease so it's operational again. The auto-close function still stops it short sometimes though (thinking there's an arm caught in the way upon auto-closing), but hey that's a 15 year old car for you.
I also took another closer look at the engine bay and I did confirm that the oil leaks are coming from both valve covers (closer to the rear), the oil cooler, and I still suspect the rear main seal. I may go ahead and buy these relatively cheap valve and cooler seals and start changing them out over time if nobody comes and picks up the car. I've had quite a few offers in the $4k range (which I'm surprised so many people even know about this rare AMG) but I'm really looking for an offer to start with a 5.
Thanks everyone!
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using the scraper "razor blades", pick up the corners of the tint and peel it off.
Then cover everything on the back of the car by the window shelf.
Then spray brake cleaner onto the remaining, solidified tint glue. Have two cans of brake cleaner available.
This will melt the tint glue.
Then using plastic "razorblades", scrape the tint glue from the rear windoiw.
There will be some small leftovers.
Use Krazy Clean foaming cleaner spray and steel wool to loosen this up.
There are several grades of steel wool, you have to get the mild one and make sure it's not detergent pre-loaded.
As you work the steel wool on top of the rear radio antenna and defroster lines, don't press hard, just turn it around, it willl loosen the remaining glue residue.
It takes in total probably 2 hours of sustained work.
And if you leave the car with the windows down afterwards for an hour or so, the smell of chemicals evaporates.
If the tint itself became brittle and doesn't want to come off in big pieces, wipe it inside with brake cleaner, to melt it a bit, so it doesn't peel into small strips.
But, most important, the antenna and defogger lines are almost guaranteed to not be damaged. While I worked doing this stuff we did dozens of cars and only had one problem with a Camaro of the 80's where a defogger line became attached to the tint itself, was a factory defect. I was doing this back in '96.
It's amazing that you have a car with such mileage and such complete functionality, I don't want you to lose factory defogger and antenna functionality.
The minute you try to scrape the glue between the lines with a steel blade, ... it's over, sorry.
Last edited by Vladds; 03-13-2019 at 07:20 AM.
In the end, that does mean that the rear defroster lines did not make it. The rear tint was just incredibly impossible to remove; nothing like the side windows, which were hard enough. ~15 years really did a number on the tint.
On another note, I did take some time today to replace the two side seals on the oil cooler and the passenger side valve cover gasket. The oil cooler seals were rock hard; they weren't even rubbery anymore. No wonder they leaked. I was not able to replace the bottom seal on the oil cooler; I was not able to remove the 46 mm nut, even with a breaker bar. And I wasn't about to put an impact gun on an area that basically feeds oil directly into the crankcase.
Slight update for the potential buyers:
Fresh oil change with Mobil 1 0-40. I didn't want to run the engine too much with having the valve cover and oil cooler previously open in the event any dirt got inside.
I measured the brakes for another person that was interested:
Front pass: rotor 29.6mm, pads 7mm each (looking thick)
Rear pass: rotor 23.mm, pads 4mm each (looking thin)
Note that the rear brakes are not the factory 300mm rotor with caliper; I upgraded to a CL600 setup that is a 315mm rotor with a larger bodied caliper (but same 42mm piston size).
I'm also willing to throw in my 17" winter wheels and tires - Blizzak WS80's that were used for 2.5 seasons. Measurements:
1) 1/32" to the wear bar, 7/32" actual depth remaining
2) 2/32" to the wear bar, 8/32" actual depth remaining
3) 0/32" to the wear bar, 6/32" actual depth remaining
4) 2/32" to the wear bar, 8/32" actual depth remaining
And here are some underbody pics as well.
PM me if interested!
Last edited by Viper98912; 03-24-2019 at 08:01 PM.
Last edited by Viper98912; 06-24-2019 at 09:56 PM.