Rear strut failure, and JUST out of warranty...
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Joined: Apr 2004
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Rear strut failure, and JUST out of warranty...
My 2003 SL500 just went in for state inspection at an independent shop, and they tell me that my left rear strut is leaking and it needs to be replaced.
Unfortunately, the factory warrant expired April 26, 2006. Does anybody know why this would occur so early on in the lifetime of the car? Is it common?
Also, do I have leverage to still get MBUSA to pay for this under warranty? The car has 25K miles on it. Who would I contact at MBUSA if my dealership will not agree to repair it as a warranty claim?
THanks guys!
Unfortunately, the factory warrant expired April 26, 2006. Does anybody know why this would occur so early on in the lifetime of the car? Is it common?
Also, do I have leverage to still get MBUSA to pay for this under warranty? The car has 25K miles on it. Who would I contact at MBUSA if my dealership will not agree to repair it as a warranty claim?
THanks guys!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,627
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From: West Virginia
2001 E320 RWD - Brilliant Silver/Ash: 100,000+
To: bboyer32
Originally Posted by bboyer32
My 2003 SL500 just went in for state inspection at an independent shop, and they tell me that my left rear strut is leaking and it needs to be replaced. <snip>
As to your MBUSA-related question, I have had a little experience there. Before they were Daimler-Chrysler, I had an expensive problem right out-of- warranty on my 1994 Plymouth Acclaim - I'm still driving the beast and have 140k on it.
The service writer at the dealer gave me an 800 number to call. I explained my issue to some woman at Chrysler Corporation, and they arranged to have the part sent to that dealer (priority shipping) AND paid for the labor. The job didn't cost me a penny. It also had to do with the rear-end, but for the life of me, I can't remember the name of the bad part.
Needless to say, I was extremely grateful for this. What I don't know is if Daimler-Chrysler appreaciates its' customers as much as the old Chrysler used to.
Hope this helps,
Musikmann
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
Originally Posted by nov0798
If you have a leaking shock, then get it replaces. A leaking shock is NOT normal. I would ask MB to make a good faith repair on your vehicle.
. I suggest clean the strut drive it a while then check it again to see if it leaks. My factory shock on my 94 Ford truck finally started leaking at 135,000 miles and I had to spend big bucks for a pair of shocks. $19.99Now my corvette shocks with ride/suspension control much like the wife's E500 go for over $600 each. My guess on the S is about $900 each. So clean it up and drive it a while. Don't run out and buy a new shock. Check it for a while. at least my $.02 worth. Jim
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,254
Likes: 15
From: Louisiana
03 E500 and Corvette
D Tech I would not say they don't leak. What I would say is for the Big bucks I would expect them to last longer than 20K+ miles. I would say that normal manufacturing variation can result in a % defective which is what warranty should cover. BTW.. what is the cost of your "shock/strut" in the box. Just wondering.
You might consider also take a digital pic and post on the struct and replacement to show the leak and how to change it. Then we could add it to our technical files. Jim
You might consider also take a digital pic and post on the struct and replacement to show the leak and how to change it. Then we could add it to our technical files. Jim
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Dublin, OH
05 ML350, 85 300D
That is an ABC system in that car- the back struts are known to leak- if the dealer won't goodwill it- call the 1-800-for-merc # and yell!! Not only is that the shock on the car- it is the spring, so it is important to fix, and the fluid is expensive and if you ever run the tandem pump dry, you will think an $1100 strut is cheap!! It is also important to not do this by yourself, or at an independant without an SDS and the knowledge.
A- high pressure (over 100 bar) in this system.
B- Pump must be primed, or can destroy itself in less than a minute
C- Only true way to bleed the system is to flush and then run through a 'rodeo' cycle, where the car runs itself up and down in a diagonal pattern for about 20 minutes.
Hopes this helps..
A- high pressure (over 100 bar) in this system.
B- Pump must be primed, or can destroy itself in less than a minute
C- Only true way to bleed the system is to flush and then run through a 'rodeo' cycle, where the car runs itself up and down in a diagonal pattern for about 20 minutes.
Hopes this helps..
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,627
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From: West Virginia
2001 E320 RWD - Brilliant Silver/Ash: 100,000+
Adding to earlier reply
Originally Posted by Musikmann
It also had to do with the rear-end, but for the life of me, I can't remember the name of the bad part.
