Any advice on how to change the oil in this E63? Must avoid the dealership at all cost if possible.

 

I buy the factory 63 cartrige oil filter and have the oil changed at 7500 km between services The local Mr lube equivalent has the mobile 1 0-40w synthetic and does it quite reasonably.

 

Looking to change it myself, can anyone help me with the steps?

 

It is no different from other MB with V formation engines. The oil canister is on the right hand side of the engine bay or driver's side coming right up inside a black plastic casing. You twist off the top, lift off the plastic and replace the paper element. Before you do all this you presumably would have twisted the drain hole plug off.

It is simple.

 

It does sound simple. what about draining the oil, what is used to suck out the oil as opposed to twisting off the drain plug? Underneath is difficult to work with due to the cover that is there and the low riding car///.

 

Go to an independent Mercedes mechanic.

 

Sounds like you need to change dealers more than you oil.........

Buy yourself a oil pump (sucks the oil out the dipstick tube) and this will make the whole job heaps easier.

 

when i had troubles on my bumper...bringing my vehicle to a repair shop will only cost me for labor cost and replacements.. i prefer simple repair and maintenance with my mercedes repair manual....i was doing a manual work...you gotta have this stuff, which is the practical investment and a handy guide in attending your car troubles.. you gotta have this guys..

 

That's right except there is only one dealer...and therin lies the problem, thanks for the thought!

 

This is the most hilarious thread ever seen!

The E63 is a massively expensive car to purchase.

The E63 is massively expensive to run.

The E63 is massively expensive to insure.

If you screw up your engine making a mistake changing your own oil, you won't believe how much it will cost to fix. (It WILL NOT be covered by warranty) Think something like 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of the car.

And we need to save a few hundred on oil changes?

 

After doing some research, it is probably as simple as mowing the yard except doing it in your garage and in a white shirt. I also read some posts on the other MB forums. Lots of idiots over there doing the same thing. All you need is an oil extraction pump that is available for $59 and the oil filter that is $24. (and the oil Mobil 1 0-40W) I went by the MB dealer at lunch to get the filter and the parts guy came out to my car and showed me what to do. The whole procedure took 28 minutes once I received the oil extraction pump. This compares with dropping my car off at the dealer, riding back to work and then picking the car up and then shelling out over $125 to get it done. This doesn't count the wear and tear from some young mechanic driving the **** out of the car for fun. I do see your point, however this was so, so easy and now you do the math!

 

I like the lube shop approach. They drop the skid plate, change the oil and dispose of it. They charge less than the dealer for the mobil oil. Takes 1/2 hour. Quick, convenient, cheaper and if they screw up there is a large insurance policy. Question for anyone who knows. Is it really wise to go 15k or so between changes if you are driving it hard? I mean you would think AMG has it right but it just seems so long!

 

Since MB stopped with the free oil changes, they now recommend 10kmi for AMG engines and 13kmi for all others.

Regards,
paul...

 

Paul,, did they make any changes to the E500. Also is this info posted somewhere. Thanks Jim

 

Hi Jim,

Haven't talked to you in a while -- hope things are well.

The 13Kmi oil change interval applies to all non-AMG engine MB's, which is the new MB recommendation. So this would include your E500 and my E320 if we want to apply MB's newest recommendations. I've seen the new recommendations posted in several places, but can't remember exactly where. It's not speculation -- someone actually showed it from a MB document.

I've followed the FSS in my car and the 2 used oil analyses I 've had show good numbers for wear. The only issue I have is the last analysis showed a high sodium level which can be a coolant leak, crack in the valve stem (valves are filled with sodium to dissapate heat, or as X72 suggest a while back, a bad batch of M1 0W-40 contaminated from Katrina.

Regards,
paul...

 

Don't be affraid of the S63 prestige. Oil changes are oil changes. You don't really need the pump (unless the S63 doesn't have an oil pan drain plug).

One time costs:
-------------------
$50 pair of Rhino Ramps
$50 set of metric socket wrenches from Sears
$10 12 quart plastic oil drain pan.
$ 5 oil filter strap wrench (in case King Kong installed your filter)
--: garage bay or clean level driveway
===========$115 for tools you'll use for many other reasons.

Per oil change costs:
--------------------
$14 oil filter @MB. Includes pack of 4 rubber "O"-rings for my S-class.
(If your parts guy loves you, he'll throw in the copper $0.45 oil drain plug washer.)
$40 8 quarts of M1 0W40 oil (for S55 kompressor engine)
$2.50 very expensive bottle of beer (optionsl)
============$54 per oil change plus your optional beer.

Instructions
--------------
o Drive up on the ramps and set your parking brake.

o Get under that car in your Sunday best clothes and unscrew the 6 or so screws to remove the front plastic belly cover. Move it out of the way.

o With your oil drain container ready by your side, unscrew the oil pan drain plug with 14mm (?) socket wrench and catch the old oil. My drain plug is angled to the side and shoots oil pretty far toward the passenger side at first, then settles to a simple drip straight down. Oil is yellow to black in color. If you see cherry red (transmission) fluid, stop draining immediately, as you have probably opened the wrong drain plug.

o While the oil is still dripping, unscrew the oil fill cap in the engine bay, and the black oil FILTER cap (mine's on the passenger side of the engine bay). More oil will dribble from drain plug below when you break the seal.

o Remove the filter cap, which for my S55, is actually is like a big popsicle stick with the filter attached to the shaft. Keep a rag handy to catch any oil that drips while you remove it. Don't want to dribble on your accessory-belt.

o Pull the filter media and the 4 rubber "O" rings off the stick and throw away.

o Install the 4 new "O" rings and new filter media onto filter stick.

o Put Drain plug back into oil pan. (don't forget this step!!!)

o Pour about half a quart of new oil into the filter compartment just for fun (to pre-oil the filter a bit) and quickly put new filter back into engine, and screw on the cap to spec'd torque.

o Pour enough quarts of oil into the engine oil fill hole, remembering you already dumped 1/2 quart into the filter hole for fun, until you are within 1/2 quart of max capacity. You don't want to overfill.

o Screw on the oil fill cap and start the engine. Check for leaks at filter and drain plug. If none, turn off engine and replace belly pan.

o Drive down the ramps and let engine warm up for a while. Drink your beer.

o Shut off engine for 5 minutes and check oil with dipstick (or using dashboard oil check feature from steering wheel buttons) to figure out if you really need to dump in that remaining 1/2 quart of oil.

You can do this whole process in less than 30 minutes.

Doing it this way, you feel fulfilled, you know you drained out all the oil that a suction pump couldn't get (including any metal shavings in bottom of pan), and you have some dirt/oil under your fingernails to show to your friends. You also have some tools for future oil changes and repairs to other toys in your garage.

Don't forget to dispose of your used oil and filter in an ecologically friendly manner.

I would highly recommend AGAINST any quickie lube shop doing your car. I am skeptical that they would stock the proper MB filter and "O" rings for your car. I have seen incompetence at most shops that could result in disasterous consequences. That being said, no auto manufacturer can force you to do a dealer oil change. You can change it yourself or go to the skankiest Jiffy Lube in the state and still be under warranty, as long as they don't screw it up.

 

GrepAwk,

Good step-by-step instructions, but don't forget to properly torque the filter cap and drain plug.

Also, I suggest you change your screen name to "GrepAwkSed"!

Regards,
paul...

 

I find this suprising as I have been running Mobile 1 for about 20 years and going 10000 miles between changes with no issues on engines running 200000 miles. 13K is only 8000 miles and seems a bit short.

Currently we have driven 8500 since last service and FSS is showing 3500 remaining miles. This car is under 100000 starmark warranty.
I will be changing myself when I get caught up on the "honey do list".

Jim

 

Jim,

My post said "13Kmi" -- sorry, I shouldn't have used this term. It should be 13,000 miles.

Regards,
paul....

 

Ok,, now that's better! Whew,, No problem "Mon" as they would say down Jamica way.

 

On the 6.3 engine you must also empty the oil cooler, this is important... The 63 is case sensitive to wich oil spec. to use. so make sure to put the right one.

If you can afford a 63 you can also afford to bring it to the workshop to do maintanence :-)

 

That was very amusing plan! I could add:better to do with cold engine/oil.
Also, good chance you dont get all the bad oil out if not going by the book, may be some oil in lines that remains unless you know how to get it all. Then you contaminate new oil with old oil. Not like American V8 when you pull the filter all oil drops out bcoz of location. Cars with remote filter and oil cooler have lines with oil remember and who knows what else.
Best to get a look at mechanic's book, read it yourself before attempting. You might discover that it needs special tools to get all the old oil out.
Can always let them do it once so long as they agree to let you watch, then you know how involved job is.
If still want to do it yourself, run motor just few minutes after complete, then check color of oil at dipstick, if not almost like new you may have left too much old oil. bummer

If you find out spec procedure let us know,ok.
I agree best to do additional change between scheduled service, at 6,500 or so, bcoz 13,000 mi much too long. Dont you know that car makers want owner of car to replace engine asap!!! If you do this then no need to be too particular. Better to change 90% of used oil than none at all, right?

Keep receipts and show them when you try to sell car, first customer give you your price right away.

 

[QUOTE=allminesl550;2332525]:
If you find out spec procedure let us know,ok.
QUOTE]

Unscrew oil filter, unscrew filling cap, empty engine oil, empty oil cooler, put both plugs back in (with new gaskets). Replace filter insert, and o-ring gaskets, tighten filter (25nm). Fill oil, start up (to build oil pressure), turn off, observe waiting time (can take some time before it will messure) and check oil level inside the car in the main menu.