Engine shut off probs
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1984 300 Turbo Diesel
Engine shut off probs
I have an 84 300 turbo Diesel. When I turn the ignition off and remove the key,the engine stays running and I must open the hood and press the "stop" button to kill the engine. HELP
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2
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1984 300 Turbo Diesel
Why can't I fix it myself? is it a matter of a part swap out. Could the solenoid be stuck or not be getting proper voltage?
I just had a cut off solenoid problem on my toyota. Holly left the o-ring off of the tip of the solenoid. thx, Lee
I just had a cut off solenoid problem on my toyota. Holly left the o-ring off of the tip of the solenoid. thx, Lee
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From: Philadelphia area
2010 ML550, 2010 E350 4M, 1966 Corvette Convt C2
You can fix it yourself if you are prepared to troubleshoot the wiring, switch, solinoid and fuse/relays and have the proper equipment/tools to do so. You must also be prepared to purge all air from the fuel system if necessary.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Bloomington, IN
1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4
Re: Engine shut off probs
Originally posted by OnTheCase
I have an 84 300 turbo Diesel. When I turn the ignition off and remove the key,the engine stays running and I must open the hood and press the "stop" button to kill the engine. HELP
I have an 84 300 turbo Diesel. When I turn the ignition off and remove the key,the engine stays running and I must open the hood and press the "stop" button to kill the engine. HELP
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6
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From: Prescott Valley, AZ
1978 300D
key switch problems
I'm having similar problems in my daughter's 78 300D. Related symptoms are:
Fuel cutoff solenoid appears to not be energizing, which keeps the engine from starting.
Solenoid sticking, may be just the solenoid, but maybe the key switch itself.
Glow plug light not coming on as switch is engaged, but only as switch is beginning to be disengaged.
It really feels like a bad switch, and also seems to be related to steering wheel posiiton.
Is it difficult to replace the key switches on these 25 year old models? I'm a pretty good sized guy, and it's hard to fit under the dash to work on most smaller cars. Must it be a factory key switch, or can the cutoff functions be put on separate switches?
This seems to fit in with the thread, so I didn't start another.
Fuel cutoff solenoid appears to not be energizing, which keeps the engine from starting.
Solenoid sticking, may be just the solenoid, but maybe the key switch itself.
Glow plug light not coming on as switch is engaged, but only as switch is beginning to be disengaged.
It really feels like a bad switch, and also seems to be related to steering wheel posiiton.
Is it difficult to replace the key switches on these 25 year old models? I'm a pretty good sized guy, and it's hard to fit under the dash to work on most smaller cars. Must it be a factory key switch, or can the cutoff functions be put on separate switches?
This seems to fit in with the thread, so I didn't start another.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: So. Cal
300 d 1983
Vacuum fuel shutoff
I would agree with Dave's post but want to add some more possibilities before you go buying new stuff. On the drivers side in the engine compartment, near where a bunch a wires come through the firewall from the cab there are some vacuum lines that meet and tee off to several places. Look for any of these to be unplugged, one of which goes to the ing. switch and when in the off position shut down the engine. Do your door locks work? If not then look in the same spot for that vacuum line too! In some models like mine 83 300d there one in the same, if the line is undone, I have no door locks and no shut down. This woudl be a good place to start. Another way to check if the shut off diaphram is good is to put a good external source off vacuum to the ing. switch and turn off the switch to see if it stops the engine because it should. As long as you get the right one still left on the ing. try both if you are not sure.
flippurr
flippurr
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From: LI, NY
02 W163, 84 W123, 03 E39, 98 E39
Check easy things first!
You have been given very good informtyion all ready. I want to stongly suggest you check for a vacuum leak first. If this happened suddenly, especially if you just changed your oil, most likely it is a vacuum leak as discribed in the previous post by where the vacuum tubes and electrical wires go though the firewall. In changing the oil it is very easy to pull one of the vacuum lines from the plastic connectors. Some silicone cement on the plastic tube helps seal the connections.
Other places for problems are the hard plastic tube that runs from the front of the engine (from the vacuum pump) to the brake booster on the fire wall. The plastic can crack and break, and the two plastic nib that come off to supply vacuum to the rest of the car can crack and break off.
Good luck, I have delt with this problem a number of times with my 300D, 300TD & 240D. Had a vacuum pump go bad, the black plastic tube from the pump to the brake booster go bad and any number of broken, connections over the years. It is alwayse an adventure tracking this problem down.
Other places for problems are the hard plastic tube that runs from the front of the engine (from the vacuum pump) to the brake booster on the fire wall. The plastic can crack and break, and the two plastic nib that come off to supply vacuum to the rest of the car can crack and break off.
Good luck, I have delt with this problem a number of times with my 300D, 300TD & 240D. Had a vacuum pump go bad, the black plastic tube from the pump to the brake booster go bad and any number of broken, connections over the years. It is alwayse an adventure tracking this problem down.
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