CLK320: How to test the coil packs? - Shakes at idle
Problem: I have a '99 CLK 320 (M112 engine) with a miss at idle. It only misses at idle and there is no performance issues while driving. The miss causes the car to shake when stopped, once the vehicle has idled down to about 550-600rpm. It is always there and decreases with rpm.
Further Info: I have determined that the "b" spark plug for the front passengers side cylinder is not firing consistently at idle (I pulled the new plugs I installed and this one is black and smells like gas). The "a" plug for the same cylinder has a slight amount of carbon build up but the white part is still tanish in color. The rest of the plugs look nice and white.
When I bought the car I determined the "b" plug wire was not firmly connected and this caused arcing which deteriorated the insulation in the plug wire. I promptly installed a new wire and installed a new plug. Unfortunately the shaking at idle did not change in the slightest (I was sure this was the culprit). I also have checked the motor mounts and transmission mount.
I then checked to insure the plug fires at idle with a spark plug light. The quick blips of an orange light lead me to believe it is getting at least some spark at idle.
I have read many posts about people with idle problems. I think my problem is possibly the "b" part of the coil pack or in the wiring or ECU.
How do I check the coils? What resistance range should they have and what pins do I check? I can use a voltmeter. Please help.
. It is the same as on the other coils, so I figured there has got to be a right way of checking them.
Last edited by 99CLK320lover; Jun 15, 2009 at 09:08 PM.
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
The ignition coils secondary circuit can't be measured because it had a diode in it.
The coils rarely fail, if they do then it's just no spark on one circuit, not a weak spark.
Most rough idles come down to collapsed engine mounts, old spark plugs (they dont have to be worn, anything over 5yrs is too long), failed air mass meters (MAF/AMM) and failed ignition leads.
Ignition leads are the hard ones to diagnose without an oscilliscpoe. Basicly you will get a spark but it's a very "dirty" spark and it causes the rough running to seem a bit random. Without an oscilliscope you can either buy 2 new leads and keep moving a good coil with the new lads around until it stops, get a mechanic with a scope to check them all for you or replace all of them.
no reason I change all 6 coils ,right?







