Advice sought - Brake Fluid Flush CLK63
12-19-2010, 01:41 AM
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Advice sought - Brake Fluid Flush CLK63
Looking for tips, advice, been there/done that before comments.
2007 AMG CLK63 Cabrio
Yes, I have a service manual (CD)
I was planning on doing this the old fashion way with two people, one pumping the brake pedal, the other (me) bleeding at the calipers.
2007 AMG CLK63 Cabrio
Yes, I have a service manual (CD)
I was planning on doing this the old fashion way with two people, one pumping the brake pedal, the other (me) bleeding at the calipers.
12-19-2010, 01:22 PM
#2
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you need
a pressure unit(shop way) or a vac bleeder(works)
harborfreight has hand pump vac bleeders.
do half the master top with fresh fluid go for a drive stomp on the brakes to activate the abs return to garage and bleed again.
or go to an indie shop with the pressure tool.
harborfreight has hand pump vac bleeders.
do half the master top with fresh fluid go for a drive stomp on the brakes to activate the abs return to garage and bleed again.
or go to an indie shop with the pressure tool.
12-29-2010, 08:51 PM
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2018 GLC300 4Matic; 2005 C55; 2003 360 Modena
I would strongly suggest getting the Motive brake bleed kit. It's around $50.
The car isn't really old enough to be concerned - but as a general rule - when pedal bleeding: put a block under the pedal that allows the pedal to only go down about 1/2 way. The thought is, for the life of the vehicle the pedal travels a given distance. A ring is formed on the master sleeve (old fluid hardened, etc) at the stop point. Come pedal bleed time - you now push the pedal to the floor and that 'ring' damages the seal for the master sleeve.
One other thought - use a clean baster and remove most of the fluid from the master and fill with fresh fluid. That way you don't run the dirty fluid in the master throughout the whole system during your flush.
The car isn't really old enough to be concerned - but as a general rule - when pedal bleeding: put a block under the pedal that allows the pedal to only go down about 1/2 way. The thought is, for the life of the vehicle the pedal travels a given distance. A ring is formed on the master sleeve (old fluid hardened, etc) at the stop point. Come pedal bleed time - you now push the pedal to the floor and that 'ring' damages the seal for the master sleeve.
One other thought - use a clean baster and remove most of the fluid from the master and fill with fresh fluid. That way you don't run the dirty fluid in the master throughout the whole system during your flush.
12-30-2010, 09:48 AM
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03 E500 and Corvette
I would strongly suggest getting the Motive brake bleed kit. It's around $50.
The car isn't really old enough to be concerned - but as a general rule - when pedal bleeding: put a block under the pedal that allows the pedal to only go down about 1/2 way. The thought is, for the life of the vehicle the pedal travels a given distance. A ring is formed on the master sleeve (old fluid hardened, etc) at the stop point. Come pedal bleed time - you now push the pedal to the floor and that 'ring' damages the seal for the master sleeve.
One other thought - use a clean baster and remove most of the fluid from the master and fill with fresh fluid. That way you don't run the dirty fluid in the master throughout the whole system during your flush.
The car isn't really old enough to be concerned - but as a general rule - when pedal bleeding: put a block under the pedal that allows the pedal to only go down about 1/2 way. The thought is, for the life of the vehicle the pedal travels a given distance. A ring is formed on the master sleeve (old fluid hardened, etc) at the stop point. Come pedal bleed time - you now push the pedal to the floor and that 'ring' damages the seal for the master sleeve.
One other thought - use a clean baster and remove most of the fluid from the master and fill with fresh fluid. That way you don't run the dirty fluid in the master throughout the whole system during your flush.
