Serious V I B R A T I O N S !
#1
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Mercedes-Benz C240 and Corvette C5 convertible
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What should I think after a chief Mercedes mechanic at dealer says I need to probably have my engine cleaned without a guarantee that this will stop the vibrations from continuing to occur in cylinders 3 and 6 of my V-6 engine? (Cost to clean will be $150, and takes 2-3 days)
I and the mechanic know that it's cylinders 3 and 6 since we had my engine hooked up to the computer. Everytime I shift into "P" and "N," I don't feel the vibrations onto my steering wheel. But in "R" and "D" the vibration is really bad when the car is stationary. As soon as the car's engine revs up past 1000 rpm's the vibrations disappear and everything is smooth. The mechanic did ask me if I high rev my engine a lot during heavy acceleration and I replied yes.
Does anyone know what the solution is to this problem and how this vibration problem started that I could feel on my steering wheel?
Your Answers and insight are appreciated....
I and the mechanic know that it's cylinders 3 and 6 since we had my engine hooked up to the computer. Everytime I shift into "P" and "N," I don't feel the vibrations onto my steering wheel. But in "R" and "D" the vibration is really bad when the car is stationary. As soon as the car's engine revs up past 1000 rpm's the vibrations disappear and everything is smooth. The mechanic did ask me if I high rev my engine a lot during heavy acceleration and I replied yes.
Does anyone know what the solution is to this problem and how this vibration problem started that I could feel on my steering wheel?
Your Answers and insight are appreciated....
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just how does he know it is coming from cylinders 3 and 6 and if he can tell where it is coming from, why can't he tell what is causing it?
My $.02
First and probably most accurate, he's full of it.
Second and just a guess, you could have an ignition problem. I had a bad set of plug wires in a car that cause misfiring at certain engine speeds. The theory is that resistance changes as cylinder pressure cheanges with RPM. Leave it in D for a while and then have a look at the plugs.
Third and another guess, you have bad rod bearings on those 2 rods. As RPM drops, so does oil pressure and the thin film of protection gets squeezed out.
My $.02
First and probably most accurate, he's full of it.
Second and just a guess, you could have an ignition problem. I had a bad set of plug wires in a car that cause misfiring at certain engine speeds. The theory is that resistance changes as cylinder pressure cheanges with RPM. Leave it in D for a while and then have a look at the plugs.
Third and another guess, you have bad rod bearings on those 2 rods. As RPM drops, so does oil pressure and the thin film of protection gets squeezed out.
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2003
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1994 E320
I had a similar problem with my '88 260E. Engine would skip a few beats in P or N, and idle rough in R or D. I had the cap and rotor replaced a few days prior, and the guy at the shop cracked the cap around the #1 tower. He gave me a new one for free, I installed it myself, and the engine idles nicely once again.
The ignition wires were also arcing to ground, which didn't help. I renewed those as well.
The ignition wires were also arcing to ground, which didn't help. I renewed those as well.