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Cool thing about DAS, is that it provides a photo of the component regarding the fault, so I was quickly able to identify what and where it was. It also provided an actuation test, which looked like it worked perfectly! But I still had the problem. DAS then suggested to replace the turbo... First thought was that the boost pressure regulator should be sold separately, but a quick look in EPC showed the painful truth: The turbo and the regulator is one part...
Refusing to accept my horrible faith, I flushed all the plugs I could find in that area with electronic cleaner. One of them was the M55, also known as the swirl motor. This is the electric motor in the middle of the V, below the intake on the turbo, which tends to break when you have oil spill from the intake. So I probably broke that one myself by flushing the plug with electronics cleaner, because it swallowed the fluid quickly... So now I got a new fault code in addition!
And when checking the actuation of the Y77 again, it did not move...
After a couple of weeks trying to get the M55 for the least amount of money (where I ended up with the expensive one from my local dealer anyways...), I got a new one installed. This was a pretty easy and straight forward job, but I had to remove the turbo to get to it, and that meant swapping all the bolts and gaskets. After job well done, I smacked the hood shut, and went for a drive. It worked perfectly! Seemed like the M55 solved everything.
But then, after an hour or so, it was back to the first fault... I found out in the beginning of my tale, that the Y77 is a Hella component with part number 6NW008412. I searched around for information on it, and it turns out that many cars use these, and the same story is told for those cars as well. And some article also said that it also tends to recover when the engine got cold again, which I can confirm.
I remove this one from the car, which you can do without removing anything else but the heat shield on the turbo, and opened it up. At first glance, it seemed like everything was looking good, but then I started measuring all the connections inside. It turned out that one of the wires for the motor was broken off.. I was not able to see this, but the ohm-meter told me otherwise. I soldered on a new wire over the two points it was connected, and made sure everything else looked clean. Then I smacked the cover on, and put the thing back in the car. Fault code now went away, and the actuation test went flawless!
The car was now back to normal! And my research had now saved me the cost of a new turbo, and also the cost of a new regulator! Breaking the M55 in the process didn't feel all that horrible now after all...
If some other poor guy like myself ends up with this fault code, and don't feel like paying 2000 euro to swap the turbo, I hope this helps!
Hi and thanks for posting the fix for the 2501 y77 error. I have tried to find a supplier for the Hella part but the part number you listed is not recognised. Could you let me know where you got it from and list the part number? Thanks again.
If you check out this image, you can see the part number 6NW008412 on the lower right. As I have heard, Hella does not sell these. But you can sometimes find them on ebay. There are also people selling repairs on ebay, so beware on what you choose.
I can also tell you that I got the error message again some weeks ago. But then I remembered reading that the error message could be caused by the actuator moving to slow, so I opened it again and lubricated all moving parts with 5-56. Be sure not to use too much, as you want to damage the electric motor. But basically I lubricated the lower bearing on the motor, and also the bearing on the cog wheels at the top.
( It turned out that one of the wires for the motor was broken off.. I was not able to see this, but the ohm-meter told me otherwise. I soldered on a new wire over the two points it was connected, and made sure everything else looked clean. Then I smacked the cover on, and put the thing back in the car. Fault code now went away, and the actuation test went flawless! )
please can you tell me where exactly is this wire and which one? can you take a picture...?
becouse i tried everithing ...
tnx
I guess that any of the wires going from the PCB to the connections around the side could be broken. Just measure them, and you'll find out which one is broken, if thats the case. Just remember that it may also be possible that the moving parts need some lubricant.
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I know this is an old thread, but for any body else who read it, want to let them know that this advise really works, and thank gskjold! I did opened my actuator box 3 times before, trying to find the problem and everything look good and like new, but after reading this, went back with my ohmmeter and check the connectors. found those same two connectors in the picture loose! some soldering and is working! thanks again gskjold. And every body else who take their time to write down their experiences.
with the help of this publication! I could correct the P0244 and P2510 code of faults that appeared and disappeared!
as a thank you and contribution! I leave some additional information:
0) to access the first actuator has to remove the connecting piece to the intercooler;
1) in case of damaged parts inside the Actuator Hella 6NW Garrett 6NW 008 412 Garrett 712120 G-XXX where XXX is a specific number that corresponds to the internal parts used. These can be obtained from repair kit's easily on eBay;
2) for welding can be performed, you have to scrape the pins so that the solder can join!;
3) As found no bulk in the gears, I chose to make only one dry cleaning with a brush!?
I guess that any of the wires going from the PCB to the connections around the side could be broken. Just measure them, and you'll find out which one is broken, if thats the case. Just remember that it may also be possible that the moving parts need some lubricant.
I did not do the lubrication and I probably have to make new welds !!
To date have there been more problems in this component ?
Hi, Just to check, when you said to measure the connections on in the actuator is this by Continuity (for none brocken connection) in multimeter?
Thanks
I know this is an old thread, but for any body else who read it, want to let them know that this advise really works, and thank gskjold! I did opened my actuator box 3 times before, trying to find the problem and everything look good and like new, but after reading this, went back with my ohmmeter and check the connectors. found those same two connectors in the picture loose! some soldering and is working! thanks again gskjold. And every body else who take their time to write down their experiences.
hey , thanks all you people on the forum ,but I just wantet to ask you ,how did you meassure with multimer where do I need to put the red cable and black cable , where , can you show me some exemple with photo of actuator screenshot or from internet something and please paint with color , Im Tired of this problem please help
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