velocity12

I have a 2013 E350 with keyless go, which is a new feature to me. On two occasions the battery was completely discharged after about 12-16 hours of non-use but the charging system checked out ok. Someone suggested that the problem may be me and my use of the keyless go. If I understood correctly, I may have hit the start button after the car was off without stepping on the break peddle or opening the door. (Sometime I am not sure that the engine turned off and could have hit the button again.) Would that have caused the ignition to go to position 2, which then would require me to open the door and hit the button again to completely turnoff the power? Could that have drained the battery?


Thanks

rhoadarmer

I have a 2012 CLS63 and I am new to MB (purchased used recently) and Keyless Go and I am having a problem where the car seems to either "stay on" or there is a drain which causes the battery to require a jump multiple times in the last several weeks. The battery is exactly 3 years old so that may be an issue, but I suspect I may have a drain or systems aren't shutting down properly. Strangely enough, this weekend I was waxing it, walking around the vehicle with the key in my pocket. No accessories were on, the car did unlock and lock several times when polishing the doors but not excessively. Afterwards the car wouldn't start and required a jump. Certainly any guidance on this would be appreciated.

Thanks

Darren 0707

I own a 2010 E63 and from the first month I have suffered from flat batteries. I have now had six batteries replaced with some only lasting weeks. The issue has now come to a head after three months of testing with Mercedes Benz Australia sending me a written explanation.


It seems that the car remains awake or ready to start once it is either switched off (if you are using the key in place of the button) or by pushing the stop/start button but NOT exiting the vehicle. They have informed me that my car goes flat in 10 minutes with others they have tested lasting 20 minutes. The answer they give is to open the driver's door and get out!! The also refer to the owner's manual on page 145 which has one line about this but NO warning as to what will happen if you take too long. This problem I have been told affects ALL AMG VEHICLES including current built (2014)vehicles but it is also my understanding from an employee there that it will also affect all keyless go vehicles in there range from at least 2010 onwards . As you can imagine Merced Benz are trying to keep this VERY quiet by saying it is other things causing all these flat batteries but I now have this in writing that they can't fix this issue from two of the heads of Mercedes Melbourne.


As one can imagine that this grossly unsatisfactory and VERY DANGEROUS in certain circumstances i.e. being stopped in a tunnel and having to turn the vehicle off and not knowing if it will start again or just wanting to go to the drive inn and watch a movie.





I am really not sure now how to approach the issue now or who to go to so any help would be greatly appreciated.

jerryt

Three year old battery and needing jump start, equals time for a new battery.

I have also killed my battery, maybe from hitting the start button one time too many, my solution "Battery Prog Brain" automatically disconnects the battery at 11.5 to 11.8 volts, so there is enough to start the car. Lead acid AGM batteries get damaged if they go below this voltage.

velocity12

My question is whether or not, with keyless go, you need to open the door and hit the button again if the ignition is in the P2 position. Like many others, I never found the owner's manual very clear. Re: my earlier post "pedal" not "pedle."

Darren 0707

The issue is the car doesn't shut down until the door is opened regardless of the pedal condition.
Clamp test the amperage coming out of the battery on the main lead and just reach through the window and hit the stop button while it's running. See what it reads and then open the door. The door is the trigger and that's the issue.

Good luck

Darren 0707

See my response below and let me know the outcome as something has to be done.
It can go that flat in 15 minutes that a battery change is needed to start the car.

jerryt

On my 2012 SLK250

My definitions; "Ignition" Everything powered on, "Accessory" Radio powered on.

First press of start button with engine running, turns off "ignition" but not "acc".
Opening drivers door shuts off "Accessory".
First press of button without brake pedal, gives you "Acc".
Second press of button gives you "ignition" power,

In my case I believe I may have hit the button a second time before opening the door, which leaves the car in the run position "Ignition" until the battery dies.

Darren 0707

The issue is the car goes flat in just over ten minutes. No dash lights show ignition is off so one can only presume the car is off? If I sit in it talking on the phone which isn't connect to the car for 10 minutes yet it goes flat unless I open the drivers door.
It really isn't good enough on a 250+k car!!!!

Darren 0707

See above and let me know how you go

jerryt

I have recently read that a SAM unit can fail to go to sleep and kill the battery.

My car has dash lights on, but if I hit the button as I open the door, I don't look back to notice any lights.

One option would be to pop out that start button and just use the key...

Anyway I don't like to buy batteries...

As far as the "Battery Prog Brain" I installed the model 4 with a hidden disconnect and reconnect button. So if I am washing the car and the door locks are doing their open close routine because I have the key on me and I am touching the car. I have the hidden switch to just disconnect the battery while I am washing / working on it.

velocity12

JerryT: What is the source of the information that the unit can fail to turn off?

jerryt

Here you go;
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6168739

SwanLake

I have an old 1999 CLK320 Cabriolet and an SUV. The 320 often sits for days depending on the weather. The battery does occasionally run down. A simple solution was to put a quality photovoltaic panel on the rear shelf and run the leads into the trunk battery. Just be sure the PV panel was electronically designed to charge a battery. The Florida sun takes care of the rest!

velocity12

Here is the paragraph from the owners manual that caused me confusion:


"Switching on the ignition
Position 2 (ignition): press Start/Stop
button : twice.
The ignition is switched on.


The ignition is switched off when:
the driver's door is opened and
you press Start/Stop button once
when in this position."


Notice it seems to state that you need to both press the start/stop button again and open the door in order to turn everything off if you have inadvertently pushed the button twice so that it is in the P2 position. Therefore, only opening the door would not turn off the power and would drain the battery eventually. I think!

Jasoncarfixer

Got the same problem with mine change the battery twice in a month


I had to remove the push bottom to stop the battery Drain issue i was having
Don't know why but I think cars not going to sleep mode . And cost the battery drain and there information how to go about to fix this issue..
some say is a sam module is going bad any knows which one?

CaliBenzDriver

Unless your F-SAM got rain soaked, it only need to be rebooted to temporarily fix the soft-crash.

Good job figuring your short list of suspects: at least EIS + Keyless-Go modules need TLC.

Did you have a chance to retrieve DTC faults ?

DCU are the next troublemakers

Jasoncarfixer

yes , there wasn't any codes for the keyless go system.. I only found that button was the problem was I hhave to jump the battery a few times and didn't drive it a for weeek without the button . ​​​​​​​but i still want to fix.. it anyone have any idea. What needed to fix or was causing .. my guess is the EIS but that very expensive from then dealership


​​​​​​​

CaliBenzDriver

> RECAP:
You have a PARKED battery drain (On MY'14, likely also to have DRIVING battery yoyo discharge too).
No scan codes found


> You rightfuly suspect: car is not entering sleep!



> FIX Short term /Long term:
[EIS + SCM, KeylessG, DCU F/R, F_SAM,...] modules are designed to drain your wallet with electronic circuit boards partially left unsoldered.
Poor connections gradually gets worse over time, CAN-B is vastly populated with accesories that tend to upset the F_SAM crazy.

Once the software logic in these modules gets soft-crashed the best temporary fix is to reboot your car by disconnecting batteries.
The long term fix is to either repair these modules or have them replaced + SCN coded by a specialist with MB subscription.


> Plan-B:
Install a simple battery post disconnect under $5.
Float charge main battery with a CTEK charger.


Used Benz are cheap because the repairs are not unless you go at it yourself... then they are awesome cars.