dmitry_sorokin

Hi All,

Just registered so greetings to everyone.

I was driving last night and everything was normal as always, but at one point the car lost it's power and did not accelerate well. Also I've got a message with thermometer (assuming overheating).
So I've stopped and shut off the engine. Started the engine and got check engine light.
Then I had to drive another ~50 km and sometimes can barely accelerate to 50 km/hour. I was watching temperature and it was between 80 C and 90-95 C.
Also I've noticed that after accelerating to over 60 km/hour power comes back (not to the full extent, but enough so I can drive).

So this morning I checked the coolant level and it was below, so I added about 0.5 - 0.7 liters of coolant. I've also noticed fluid (assuming it's coolant) on top of fuel filer! Also I've remembered that yesterday while driving I was getting condensation on the windshield.
I've connected a computer and got tons of errors.
Below are some of them:
129700 The diesel particulate filter is defective.
100D00 The lower limit value of component B2/6 (Left hot film mass air flow sensor) has been reached.
100E00 The lower limit value of component B2/7 (Right hot film mass air flow sensor) has been reached.
101500 The lower limit value of component B2/6 (Left hot film mass air flow sensor) has been reached.
101600 The lower limit value of component B2/7 (Right hot film mass air flow sensor) has been reached.
105700 Component Y27/9 (Left EGR positioner) has Short circuit to ground.
10B900 Component B16/15 (Temperature sensor upstream of SCR catalytic converter) has a plausibility error.
10C200 The control line to component M4/7 (Engine and AC electric suction fan with integrated control) has Short circuit to ground.
113D00 The heater for component G3/2 (Oxygen sensor upstream of catalytic converter) has a short circuit to positive.
11F100 The lower limit value of component B2/6b1 (Left intake air temperature sensor) was dropped below/not reached.

This leads me to believe there's some kind of coolant leak that got all these sensors shorted. Also I've remembered that while I was driving yesterday my iPhone was arbitrarily disconnecting and reconnecting over Bluetooth (which never happened before).

Any advice where I should start looking or anyone has experienced the same or similar issue?


Thanks a lot in advance!

P.S. I've got full STARS report if that's of any help.

mike278

Check the fuse box on the passenger side under the hood. I believe it's fuse 20, but I really can't remember exactly. I haven't had my coffee yet, but I believe the m55 intake flap actuator goes bad and blows that fuse. If you have the proper scanner you can run the self-test on the motor. Hope this helps.

dmitry_sorokin

Thanks a lot Mike for the suggestion.
Yes, it turned out to be couple of fuses and the M55 motor that failed.
Before that I had to do a whole intake manifold gasket replacement (as well oil cooler seals replacement as well, just in case).
I think there was coolant leak there as I could see traces and once I took intake manifolds off, I could see whoever did oil cooler seals replacement, used old gaskets and some kind of black car sealant substance (what a mess!), so I got all the new intake manifold gaskets (as well as turbo and other gaskets and o-rings), cleaned all the mess and did the install.
At that time I did not check fuses and M55 motor seemed to be working.
Maybe I messed it up when installed but in any case when I got to the motor it was fried and one of the levers from the link bars was broken.

So I've done the resistor trick, disconnected the motor and fixated the link bars in flap-open position. That worked great. However I've got bot B96/1 and B96/2 sensor errors reported and check engine light on because of these. I guess the sensors are OK, it's just the computer thinks that the sensors do not register different positions (flap-closed positions I think in particular) in case the signal from the computer goes to the motor to change the position and sensors do not register that although computer thinks motor did that (of course there's a resistor that tricks the computer).

Any way to trick the computer to think that sensors work as well or maybe disconnect these altogether?

Thanks a lot!

Josh McGuire

What was the final verdict on the noise?

coxp559

My AC wasn't working properly shortly after purchase. Then 5 months later started blowing uncooked air out of driver's vents again, this time with less pressure and started smelling bad. Said a hose was kinked maybe from closing vents too hard... NOT! I live in central California where you dont think of even closing the AC vents between May through Oct! They fixed the smell and AC worked well for 30 hours....Taking it in for the 3rd time ;(
Noticed yesterday before appt. that spontaneously for a short time it sent out cool air through driver's vent. Strange. Can it be an electrical problem? Do I have a lemon?

Technitschko

Hi dadd,
I have the same diesel fuel tank leak problem on my 1995 E300D. I plan to remove the tank tomorrow and check if it can come from behind but it appears for me to sweat through the welding points. What was the cause and solution in your case?

Matt1e

I have started getting the full.sensor failures accompanied occasionally with loss of power.

Where is the CAN Wiring loom In mine ?

TYIA,

Mart.

efzauner

sorry post in wrong thread

mnisia

How do i clear the codes?

Flipbound18

Bad luck for me California 276motor fail. Kn filter installation.

Flipbound18

Wrong tread

newoldclk208

Hi all,

I have been reading this forum for a while, contacted Klaus (my best regards to him) who was very kind and helpful, but I am still not able to locate the fault in my soft top opening (or the lack of it).

In words: the roof starts to open correctly, glass folds back correctly, back compartment opens, then the back window unfolds towards the compartment, once the top is stretched and about to enter the compartment it jerks and stops.

I checked the wires for the back bow lock and the other lock - both working fine (some damage, but not broken) - fixed.

Any suggestions based on the video?

Reagards,

M

collingwood

have you tried holding up the front of the top ? if your internal top cables are broke or stretched you need to hold the front of the top up about 8 to 10 inches from the windshield with your left hand while operating the top switch with your right hand or have someone help you. . if this is not the cause then you could be low on top fluid and it only has enough fluid to go that far in the opening process before it runs out. i have the same car and that's the only two things that i would guess. make a video of the front of the top by the windshield when you are attempting to put it down.

domwild

autojava

Thanks. Rudeney. It turns out to be the issue of camshaft Adjuster. MB dealer charge $2900 to fix the issue. plus $220 diagose cost and TAX, it costs me $3100 in California.

Brian PB

Vitiated

TKfiles

Its part number: 003 997 0689

domwild

Hi,
On the other hand, please look at your battery as I had lots of error messages like your oxygen sensor message ONLY because the Varta battery failed after ten (!), yes ten years. The confuser gets confused a lot due to low voltage and the diagnostics go berserk with error messages plus you get into "limp" mode. Once I changed the battery my MB2 diagnostic became silent.

gpdavis2

Wrong thread?!?

RobE55

Hello people,

I got the "fuel smell both inside and out" made an appointment with MBSD USA. Great experience. Took in the car on Thursday - they had no loaner for me but no worries, they took care of that through enterprise. Diagnostic and the result was a new tank completely covered. Got it back today and paid nada. Wash and vacuum to boot!

Thank you MB and MBSD USA for standing behind this issue.

Rob

Kebowers47

All the stuff is there to conform to the Emissions Level laws. Defeating or deactivating them and then driving may be illegal. There is a $10,000 penalty if you get checked during registration or emissions tested. It IS good you figured out how to operate in 'the limp home' mode until you can get it properly repaired.

FYI You might write a "Letter to the File" detailing the entire situation to document the attempted repair and work-around. Many states have a provision that allows an exemption from emissions requirements if you can show you have already spent so many dollars on attempted repairs. Such a letter may keep you 'legal.' and avoid a big penalty. Remember our Criminal Justice system goes after (prosecutes) we 'small guys' because we cannot afford a costly legal defense while the really 'bad' guys get away.

shawnmichael

I seriously doubt that a cleaner will do anything. The evaporative emissions system sucks fumes out of the system to protect mother earth, nothing more. The code I had is telling me/you that the system is unable to pull a vacuum, insinuating a leak somewhere in the system. That's why the first excuse they always give is to check the gas cap. You shouldn't have any symptoms at all of the truck running bad, it's just a nuisance.

All that being said, in less than 3 years, I replaced wheel bearings, brake rotors, rear shock mount, auxiliary battery (start stop) failed, seat stitching was coming undone. I was fed up, and when the dealer told me I needed to pay more to get better quality, I told him his logic was flawed and promptly sold the GLK private party.

Good luck with it, but honestly I think it's nothing more than a nuisance.

machineshot

Wrong thread

tdennehy

Does anyone have a writeup on where to place the resistor that is mentioned in another thread? Is it easily accessible when I open the hood? Also, does anyone know what fuse blows? I want to check the fuse - as I am having the same exact problem as described in this thread.