eurdone

I've searched the internet and forums and cannot find the answer to this issue. Any help would be much appreciated. Here is the exact sequence of events that have occurred:
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• I have a 2006 SL55 AMG, 67K miles. The vehicle has a new aux battery and new rear battery, as of this year.
• Out of nowhere a Visit Workshop battery warning came up a few days ago. I drove the car a short distance home immediately.
• The next day I started the car to receive several warnings, ESP, Brakes, Battery, visit workshop.
• The following day the car would not even unlock, the battery was completely dead even though I hadn't even moved the vehicle.
• Today I went to replace the rear battery, since the aux battery showed correct voltage. I used a jump box to start the vehicle and drive a couple miles to the auto store.
• I bought and installed the brand new battery (in the auto store parking lot). Once installed and started, my car wouldn't even shift out of park--the shifter is stuck in park. All the errors are still showing--SRS, Brake, ESP, battery, visit workshop.
• I left the car idling hoping it would somehow self correct only to find the car began to overheat (after 15min of idling) and coolant started overflowing.
• I tried to find a shift override (so I could shift out of park) under the shift boot only to find the R230 doesn't have one? Correct me if I'm wrong about that, but I looked all over. So now I can't even override to get my car a short distance back home.
• It seems my only option now is to have my car towed?

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I'm beyond frustration and out of ideas. Any help or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks so much.

eurdone

I have so many questions about what the heck is happening here it kills me. Here are a few, anyone wanna take a stab at them?

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1. What's with the sudden battery warning when the aux and rear batteries are recently replaced (as of this year)?
2. Why did the battery eventually completely die even though I took the car straight home and only started it one more time?
3. Why is my car now overheating even when idling, it must be related to the Battery / Brake / ESP error? I've read people claiming after the battery warning their cars have also overheated
4. What causes the car to suddenly not shift out of park? Even with the previous warnings it was shifting fine. Only upon installing a brand new rear battery has the car decided it won't let me shift?
5. Is there any chance it's the alternator? Brake switch? Voltage regulator? Fried electrical?
6. There are three things make my situation different than any other issue I've read about:
   • (1) neither of my batteries are old and need replacement, and
   • (2) the shifter being stuck in park is so random--the shifter stuck problem typically only occurs when the plastic piece underneath breaks, I'm 99.9% that's not what's happening here.
   • (3) there is no shift override on the R230? I can't figure out a practical way to get my car into drive so I can take it to my mechanic.

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I REALLY don't want to tow it, but that's what's going to happen tomorrow morning as it's stuck in the NAPA Auto parking lot, unless someone can come to the rescue with an idea. Thanks all, for any suggestions, theories, guesses you can offer!

chassis

You replaced the battery today, correct? Did you also replace the auxiliary battery? That seems to the be the best and least expensive next step to take, Another suggestion is to check fuses to see if any are blown.

eurdone

Yeah I was hoping it was just a battery situation, but it's not. :/

fabbrisd1

Well... you should consider replacing the brake light switch - only with genuine MB about $21 and NOT a China knockoff... that "could" be the cause of "most" of your problems..

eurdone

At the advice of a fellow forum member, I was able to jump the car and very quickly throw it in gear this morning. That advice saved me a tow. I drove it very tentatively to my mechanic keeping it under 2,000 RPM. Upon pulling onto a rack my mechanic noticed right away the rear battery was unusually hot. He mentioned something seems to be putting a heavy load on that rear battery, which explains why it keeps running dead (in less than 24hrs).

I will suggest replacing the brake light switch with an OEM part. I will update as soon as I find out in case anyone else experiences this issue. Thank you.

eurdone

Well, just got a call from my mechanic and the alternator is putting out as high as 17 volts when revved. He suggested replacing the alternator. Is that a typical problem with a bad alternator? Would that explain all the crazy warnings?

chassis

Do some googling and you will find that overcharging is not unheard of. Root cause may indeed be a failed alternator.