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M276 High pressure pump

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Old 11-08-2023 | 02:22 PM
  #26  
MoMoney-MoMods's Avatar
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2013 C300 4matic Sport
Good to know. I have to do my PCV as it is leaking so I plan on doing whole new Bosch pump and tapit too since I have to remove anyway and they aren't that much $. I'd hate to have to go in again for a failed old pump any time soon anyway. I ordered all the parts to be here in a week then I will try next weekend. So we will see how it works out for me, finger crossed.

last question, how did you relieve the fuel pressure when removing pump, did you just crack a line and cover with a bunch of rags, or get a tool to connect to front of the fuel rail and relieve pressure the 'official' way? I didn't want to spend $ on a tool I will only use once, but was unsure how much of a mess/hazard cracking the fuel line would be.
Old 11-09-2023 | 08:40 AM
  #27  
CERNICALO1's Avatar
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2015 GLK350
Originally Posted by MoMoney-MoMods
Good to know. I have to do my PCV as it is leaking so I plan on doing whole new Bosch pump and tapit too since I have to remove anyway and they aren't that much $. I'd hate to have to go in again for a failed old pump any time soon anyway. I ordered all the parts to be here in a week then I will try next weekend. So we will see how it works out for me, finger crossed.

last question, how did you relieve the fuel pressure when removing pump, did you just crack a line and cover with a bunch of rags, or get a tool to connect to front of the fuel rail and relieve pressure the 'official' way? I didn't want to spend $ on a tool I will only use once, but was unsure how much of a mess/hazard cracking the fuel line would be.
About the release of pressure, I just loosened the connectors, and let it drain with rags in place; not much came out. Do make sure your battery is disconnected, so no possible spark issues occur. Also, keep in mind, I had to loosen the fuel line connections even on the driver side of the engine in order to completely disconnect the pump.

Also, consider changing Tappet housing, which is what MB recommends (and it makes sense). I would only change the centrifuge if you see any wear on the surface of the cylinder wall making contact with the "PCV" Seal (Seal barely puts any force onto the Centrifuge wall). If you have not changed the 6 rubber gaskets at the intake plenum connection to the lower section of the intake (probably done if spark plugs/coils changed), I would also have those handy---you are going to remove the top section of the intake manifold.

BTW, how did you find the documents attached to you post yesterday?
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CaliBenzDriver (11-09-2023)
Old 11-09-2023 | 02:11 PM
  #28  
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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by CERNICALO1
...BTW, how did you find the documents attached to you post yesterday?
They are probably in the WIS, though I haven't checked. Which brings up a point to make. If you are going to work on your car, you should have two things: A good MB specific scanner, like the
Launch Creader Elite Benz Launch Creader Elite Benz
, and a copy of the WIS/ASRA/EPC. The WIS/ASRA/EPC are the electronic shop manual and parts catalog. Search eBay. They run about $20 for a copy that will run on a Virtual Machine (https://www.virtualbox.org/) on your PC or Intel processor MAC. Unless you are really into screwing around with software, get the version that runs on VirtualBox.
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