When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by GermanAuto4959
I have customers whom have been driving around with this fault code in their M274s for thousands of miles with no issues. My GLC was actually "Fixed" about 8 months ago. the engine internally is very clean, always has had oil changes every 6 months regardless of how under the mileage it has been since day one. Now has 42,001 miles on it. The labor is pretty big charge to my customers to "fix" this. Two vehicles with m274s here currently are in an open circuit stage and hasn't caused any issues. One has a CEL on due to it (been that way for 20,000 miles or so). She doesn't want to spend big to fix it, I may just do this for her and explain the situation. So Far though, I've not really noticed any difference in my car. I also use Motul 8100 Xmax 0w-40.
I think the "fix" is to disconnect and attached the dummy solenoid. Don't even bother with a genuine or OEM solenoid, but something cheap on AliExpress. Buy two or three for the price of one OEM solenoid.
I think the "fix" is to disconnect and attached the dummy solenoid. Don't even bother with a genuine or OEM solenoid, but something cheap on AliExpress. Buy two or three for the price of one OEM solenoid.
This is exactly what I did for my GLC to see how this all works out. No codes or anything. Just seeing what all this is about. My GLC has had the fix, as in pan removal, harness and solenoid, done about 6-8 months ago or something. Right now as of yesterday, there is a cheap sensor on My GLC plugged in to harness that is zip tied up (see my previous couple of posts has a picture).
I have customers whom have been driving around with this fault code in their M274s for thousands of miles with no issues.
My GLC was actually "Fixed" about 8 months ago. the engine internally is very clean, always has had oil changes every 6 months regardless of how under the mileage it has been since day one.
Now has 42,001 miles on it. The labor is pretty big charge to my customers to "fix" this. Two vehicles with m274s here currently are in an open circuit stage and hasn't caused any issues. One has a CEL on due to it (been that way for 20,000 miles or so).
She doesn't want to spend big to fix it, I may just do this for her and explain the situation. So Far though, I've not really noticed any difference in my car. I also use Motul 8100 Xmax 0w-40.
Doing a pump "solenoid delete" or getting a natural one from failed harness delivers normal oil pressure without a sudden step at 3500.RPM when pressure climbs from low to normal.
What's directly affected by oil pressure are VVT gear positioning and piston spray cooling.
You must use "MB Approved oil" as the cylinders will still remain dry up to RPM when pistons will begin to get sprayed on stock viscosity. Likely above 2500.RPM instead of 3500.RPM!
To spray-cool pistons at normal driving speed requires additional viscosity correction. This is MOD2.1 applied by small amount of compatible 15w50 oil.
Having greater oil pressure helps offset leaks from chain tensioners responsible for HPFP timings. This allows advanced GDI timings to provide high torque at 900.RPM.
This being experimental... at this point we can say that the turbo guys don't see the kind of improvements of Aspirated engines.
Further closing that gap maybe an interesting development.
People expecting AtoZ after unplugging are disappointed.
It take time for stuck rings to clean up and cylinders being able to seal blow-by. The ECU has sensors to measure engine pressures. It needs couple kMi. to rebuild mapped tables.
People who have "natural MOD" are way ahead of us with their cleaner rings!
People with high mileage may only benefit from normal heat management with MOD2.1 and the lack of oil pressure step that disrupts VVT map.
This explains why normal oiling is tranformative but not a cure-all magical procedure.
Overall engine response gets more consistent. When that is acquired the tranny learns to use gear 1-2-3 in a normal extended way instead of too short.
> TT/NA ie. pressure/vacuum:
There's a gap between TT/NA engines I believe due to MAP processing.
-- When cylinders seal on NA engine we geat an improved intake vacuum measured by MAP.
-- When blow-by is reduced on TT engine gets a hair more less intake boost pressure... not vacuum!
PCV on TT are much less simplistic than direct hose on NA.
I positively endorse nobody from engaging in experimental engine MOD's .... Do read knowledge threads to understand what you are interested in doing. It's like driving 100mph it's exciting but presents unfamiliar conditions.
My point is you must learn what you're experimenting with else stick with manufacturer recommended procedures.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 04-16-2024 at 07:18 PM.
Doing a pump "solenoid delete" or getting a natural one from failed harness delivers normal oil pressure without a sudden step at 3500.RPM when pressure climbs from low to normal.
What's directly affected by oil pressure are VVT gear positioning and piston spray cooling.
You must use "MB Approved oil" as the cylinders will still remain dry up to RPM when pistons will begin to get sprayed on stock viscosity. Likely above 2500.RPM instead of 3500.RPM!
To spray-cool pistons at normal driving speed requires additional viscosity correction. This is MOD2.1 applied by small amount of compatible 15w50 oil.
Having greater oil pressure helps offset leaks from chain tensioners responsible for HPFP timings. This allows advanced GDI timings to provide high torque at 900.RPM.
This being experimental... at this point we can say that the turbo guys don't see the kind of improvements of Aspirated engines.
Further closing that gap maybe an interesting development.
People expecting AtoZ after unplugging are disappointed.
It take time for stuck rings to clean up and cylinders being able to seal blow-by. The ECU has sensors to measure engine pressures. It needs couple kMi. to rebuild mapped tables.
People who have "natural MOD" are way ahead of us with their cleaner rings!
People with high mileage may only benefit from normal heat management with MOD2.1 and the lack of oil pressure step that disrupts VVT map.
This explains why normal oiling is tranformative but not a cure-all magical procedure.
Overall engine response gets more consistent. When that is acquired the tranny learns to use gear 1-2-3 in a normal extended way instead of too short.
> TT/NA ie. pressure/vacuum:
There's a gap between TT/NA engines I believe due to MAP processing.
-- When cylinders seal on NA engine we geat an improved intake vacuum measured by MAP.
-- When blow-by is reduced on TT engine gets a hair more less intake boost pressure... not vacuum!
PCV on TT are much less simplistic than direct hose on NA.
I positively endorse nobody from engaging in experimental engine MOD's without reading knowledge threads to understand what you are doing. It's like driving 100mph it's exciting but presents unfamiliar condition.
My point is you must learn what you're experimenting with else follow manufacturer recommended procedures.
I would say in My area's climate I would not put 15w50 in these engines especially in the colder months. I have absolutely noticed much better cold starts and decreased engine noise on cold starts with 0w40 vs. 5w40. I don't know really how experimental this is being that there are literally (i'm guessing) 1000s of these vehicles (especially m274) that have been running around with this solenoid failed for many years and many miles. I don't see any issues just unplugging and installing a dummy solenoid for those people with C.E.L. on due to these faults.
I would say in My area's climate I would not put 15w50 in these engines especially in the colder months. I have absolutely noticed much better cold starts and decreased engine noise on cold starts with 0w40 vs. 5w40. I don't know really how experimental this is being that there are literally (i'm guessing) 1000s of these vehicles (especially m274) that have been running around with this solenoid failed for many years and many miles. I don't see any issues just unplugging and installing a dummy solenoid for those people with C.E.L. on due to these faults.
I totally agree this can be beneficial given circumstances.
I also agree it's a bad idea to drive these engines on 15w50 oil unless it's only 300ml mixed with 8 liters of 5w40 to lower spray-cooling to1500.RPM aka. MOD2.1.
I totally agree this can be beneficial given circumstances.
I also agree it's a bad idea to drive these engines on 15w50 oil unless it's only 300ml mixed with 8 liters of 5w40 to lower spray-cooling to1500.RPM aka. MOD2.1.
I misread that part about 15w50. your posts are sometimes difficult to translate as there is a lot of legal jumbo mixed in assuming you don't want to be liable etc. It's a lot of pages of reading, and I'm trying to see and understand how you know this piston cooling mod is working? theory? reduced temps that have been monitored somehow? Noise?
I misread that part about 15w50. your posts are sometimes difficult to translate as there is a lot of legal jumbo mixed in assuming you don't want to be liable etc. It's a lot of pages of reading, and I'm trying to see and understand how you know this piston cooling mod is working? theory? reduced temps that have been monitored somehow? Noise?
It's not easy to know exactly at which RPM the pump pressure starts spraying pistons. Most of these engines have no oil temp nor oil pressure sensors and the coolant temp gauge is fake...
-- When entering MOD.1 we realize the engine temperature drops somewhat. Spray effective above 2500.RPM
-- When entering MOD.2.0 we realize the engine temperature drops to normal range until the fresh oil viscosity is degraded enough and the spray RPM starts climbing up... then comes MOD.2.1 to reverse that!
Lower viscosity oil require higher RPM to reach effective spray pressure. That still keeps the engine unsprayed at driving RPM !
Dry-lubing pistons with specific MB Approved oils is proven to work but prevents piston spraying...
Extreme heat can not be removed from dry-lubed cylinders. Does that make sense?
If your engine 100Amp fan runs in winter and the car super heats its garage in winter... you can go looking for answers. Why does the engine trap extreme heat and is unable to cool in winter with regulated engine head coolant under 100°F?
All these questions are answered in the AMGW212 thread.
When experimenting around this topic I found the missing GDI Timings for torque and cancelled the extreme heat soak that cause "$10k-oil-in-harness".
Not to mention tranny now shifts gear 1-2-3 with normal range and others perfectly smooth in sequence.
The A/C having no coolant valve is much more effective at cooling when engine temps are normalized.
Overall this has transformed the engine responsiveness to become a hummingbird instead of a heavy bus.
The secret trick is to provide the right setup and give the ECU/TCU time to learn the engine maps as it is improving. MOD.1.0 by itself is limited.
Make sure your engine oil type is "MB Approved" to provide chemical dry-lube additives: boron, ZDDP... eventhough I prefer spray-cooling than dry-lubing!
Don't trust me, pls share your own research.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 04-17-2024 at 02:37 PM.
It's not easy to know exactly at which RPM the pump pressure starts spraying pistons. Most of these engines have no oil temp nor oil pressure sensors and the coolant temp gauge is fake...
-- When entering MOD.1 we realize the engine temperature drops somewhat. Spray effective above 2500.RPM
-- When entering MOD.2.0 we realize the engine temperature drops to normal range until the fresh oil viscosity is degraded enough and the spray RPM starts climbing up... then comes MOD.2.1 to reverse that!
Lower viscosity oil require higher RPM to reach effective spray pressure. That still keeps the engine unsprayed at driving RPM !
Dry-lubing pistons with specific MB Approved oils is proven to work but prevents piston spraying...
Extreme heat can not be removed from dry-lubed cylinders. Does that make sense?
If your engine 100Amp fan runs in winter and the car super heats its garage in winter... you can go looking for answers. Why does the engine trap extreme heat and is unable to cool in winter with regulated engine head coolant under 100°F?
All these questions are answered in the AMGW212 thread.
When experimenting around this topic I found the missing GDI Timings for torque and cancelled the extreme heat soak that cause "$10k-oil-in-harness".
Not to mention tranny now shifts gear 1-2-3 with normal range and others perfectly smooth in sequence.
The A/C having no coolant valve is much more effective at cooling when engine temps are normalized.
Overall this has transformed the engine responsiveness to become a hummingbird instead of a heavy bus.
The secret trick is to provide the right setup and give the ECU/TCU time to learn the engine maps as it is improving. MOD.1.0 by itself is limited.
Make sure your engine oil type is "MB Approved" to provide chemical dry-lube additives: boron, ZDDP... eventhough I prefer spray-cooling than dry-lubing!
Don't trust me, pls share your own research.
I really appreciate your answers and time that you put in to this. Gives me a lot to think about and tinker with. So Next oil change, or even now, add 300ml of 15w50 to my current oil? right now has 0w40 motul 8100.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by GermanAuto4959
I really appreciate your answers and time that you put in to this. Gives me a lot to think about and tinker with. So Next oil change, or even now, add 300ml of 15w50 to my current oil? right now has 0w40 motul 8100.
Just remember to first remove the amount of oil that you will add back in..
WRT @CaliBenzDriver statements about oil pressure, I measured mine the last time after adding the 300ml of 15W-50 and saw my oil pressure go to 50 psi almost immediately after starting. On startup, the rpms go to about 1100 rpm before settling to normal idle around 600 rpm. The second video shows the oil pressure at idle first around 25 psi and then later at 35 psi after a brief acceleration. I thought the oil squirters started squiring around 20 psi, but I could be wrong. But since 35 psi is about the 2 bar solenoid restriction, I feel comfortable that my squirters are squirting at normal driving speeds.
I have my original splash of 500ml which I think is too much. I wish someone would have wispered: "we can add more but can hardly take out any!" - LOL
Use smaller booster shots of 100ml and 50ml.... such as:
100 ml
100 ml
(50ml; 50ml) optionals
Homework:
See if 100 or 200mL or 150 or 350 does bring what you want. Go gradually with test miles between.
JR says: "50psi pressure above idle...."
this is more than what the doctor ordered
We just need 30psi at operating temp.
I am thinking about downgrading from 500ml back to 250ml.... curious me a hair short 3k.Miles
nice honey going mapple sirop... keeper!
No vaporization, no more oil consumption !!
Thanks to Juan
GREAT MOTUL OIL PERFORMANCE with sustained viscosity
Thinking about pumping half out of 8L/500ml to then have 4L/250ml + 4L.
No reason to be too high - its bad for circulation and can overwork the 0.5¢ spring on the pump pressure relief. I plan on Not testing 0.psi at driving speed if I can avoid it.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 04-17-2024 at 10:51 PM.
I have this issue now with our 2020 GLC300 - and REALLY appreciate this video! I've also read that this oil sensor/part - which is designed to very slightly improve gas mileage by reducing parasitic drag at idle - can actually cause more engine wear in the long-term. Accordingly, many now recommend ignoring this CEL code and allowing the oil pump to generate full pressure all the time.
Unfortunately for me, my state (Illinois) won't perform my exhaust emissions test if the CEL is on for any reason. With this in mind, I'm thinking maybe I could unplug the wire (as shown in the linked YouTube video) and connect it to a homemade fitting with a resistor of the appropriate rating to fool the system into thinking it was connected to the oil pressure solenoid. Anybody have thoughts on this and how best to do it? Would love to find a source for such a fix.
This is exactly what I did for my GLC to see how this all works out. No codes or anything. Just seeing what all this is about. My GLC has had the fix, as in pan removal, harness and solenoid, done about 6-8 months ago or something. Right now as of yesterday, there is a cheap sensor on My GLC plugged in to harness that is zip tied up (see my previous couple of posts has a picture).
Originally Posted by JettaRed
I think the "fix" is to disconnect and attached the dummy solenoid. Don't even bother with a genuine or OEM solenoid, but something cheap on AliExpress. Buy two or three for the price of one OEM solenoid.
I was thinking along the same lines - making the car think it was conncted to a solenoid - possibly by attaching a resistor that mimics the ohmn resistance of the actual solenoid. BUT, maybe the easiest approach is to connect it to a cheap solenod as suggestd above. I'd love some advice or even links to an appropriate solenoid and the needed connector if possible.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Unless you know what you are doing like @S-Prihadi does, I would not stick a resistor in there since you are connecting directly to the ECU. Get the dummy solenoid. The part number is 2781800415 so search for the cheapest. If you have time to wait, you can get one from AliExpress for about $29.
I have this issue now with our 2020 GLC300 - and REALLY appreciate this video! I've also read that this oil sensor/part - which is designed to very slightly improve gas mileage by reducing parasitic drag at idle - can actually cause more engine wear in the long-term. Accordingly, many now recommend ignoring this CEL code and allowing the oil pump to generate full pressure all the time.
Unfortunately for me, my state (Illinois) won't perform my exhaust emissions test if the CEL is on for any reason. With this in mind, I'm thinking maybe I could unplug the wire (as shown in the linked YouTube video) and connect it to a homemade fitting with a resistor of the appropriate rating to fool the system into thinking it was connected to the oil pressure solenoid. Anybody have thoughts on this and how best to do it? Would love to find a source for such a fix.
Something tells me you have not found the time to read about what you're trying to do. It's hard to miss.
Resistor will get too hot... the most equivalent solenoid is another 12V coil. This will keep the pump fault under wrap if you so desire.
Something tells me you have not found the time to read about what you're trying to do. It's hard to miss.
Resistor will get too hot... the most equivalent solenoid is another 12V coil. This will keep the pump fault under wrap if you so desire.
Don't short out anything connected to ECU 🤞
You are correct - I was excited with a possible "fake-out" option that I hadn't yet invstigated. Will defnitely opt for the "alternate" solnoid option.
Unless you know what you are doing like @S-Prihadi does, I would not stick a resistor in there since you are connecting directly to the ECU. Get the dummy solenoid. The part number is 2781800415 so search for the cheapest. If you have time to wait, you can get one from AliExpress for about $29.
Thanks for the advice - which I will follow! Also, appreciate the solenoid link. Do you (or anyone else here) know the part number or link for the MB connector that I will need to connct the "alternate" solnoid to the existing connctor on the car?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by dbier
Thanks for the advice - which I will follow! Also, appreciate the solenoid link. Do you (or anyone else here) know the part number or link for the MB connector that I will need to connct the "alternate" solnoid to the existing connctor on the car?
The solenoid connects directly to the wiring harness. I know nearly 1600 posts and countless pages (actually only 64) are a lot of reading, but you should really go through that thread and fully understand what is going on. All of your questions so far are answered in that thread.
The solenoid connects directly to the wiring harness. I know nearly 1600 posts and countless pages (actually only 64) are a lot of reading, but you should really go through that thread and fully understand what is going on. All of your questions so far are answered in that thread.
Thanks for the additional info. Frankly, I'm just trying to quickly figure out the issue/solution after our POS 2020 GLC300 starts acting up while we're out of town dealing with the unexpected death of my 47 year-old brother-in-law. I need every spare moment to help determine next steps for a heartbroken wife and her 9 & 11 yar old girls. So forgive me for not reading every post.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by dbier
Thanks for the additional info. Frankly, I'm just trying to quickly figure out the issue/solution after our POS 2020 GLC300 starts acting up while we're out of town dealing with the unexpected death of my 47 year-old brother-in-law. I need every spare moment to help determine next steps for a heartbroken wife and her 9 & 11 yar old girls. So forgive me for not reading every post.
Sorry for your loss. That sux! If now is not the right time, you should wait and focus on the family. The car isn't going anywhere.
Sorry for your loss. That sux! If now is not the right time, you should wait and focus on the family. The car isn't going anywhere.
Appreciate the condolences - wouldn't wish what has happened on an enemy. At least I now know it's okay to drive - but I have to address it within a couple of months to get the CEL to stay off so I can pass the state emissions test (they won't perform the test if the CEL is on for any reason).
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by dbier
Appreciate the condolences - wouldn't wish what has happened on an enemy. At least I now know it's okay to drive - but I have to address it within a couple of months to get the CEL to stay off so I can pass the state emissions test (they won't perform the test if the CEL is on for any reason).
The same here in Maryland. But, as both CaliBenzDriver and I said, get a cheap solenoid and plug it in directly to the wiring harness that you disconnected from the installed solenoid.
The same here in Maryland. But, as both CaliBenzDriver and I said, get a cheap solenoid and plug it in directly to the wiring harness that you disconnected from the installed solenoid.
Sorry if this is a stupid question - and I did try to look at online pics - but will the connector that I unplug from the existing fitting at the engine block plug directly into the replacement solenoid? Or do I also need to buy a new Oil Sensor wire/line (part 2741508602) in order to make the connection to the replacement solenoid? I can't clearly see all the connectors.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by dbier
Sorry if this is a stupid question - and I did try to look at online pics - but will the connector that I unplug from the existing fitting at the engine block plug directly into the replacement solenoid? Or do I also need to buy a new Oil Sensor wire/line (part 2741508602) in order to make the connection to the replacement solenoid? I can't clearly see all the connectors.
1. but will the connector that I unplug from the existing fitting at the engine block plug directly into the replacement solenoid?YES
2. do I also need to buy a new Oil Sensor wire/line...?NO
Sorry if this is a stupid question - and I did try to look at online pics - but will the connector that I unplug from the existing fitting at the engine block plug directly into the replacement solenoid? Or do I also need to buy a new Oil Sensor wire/line (part 2741508602) in order to make the connection to the replacement solenoid? I can't clearly see all the connectors.
sorry, i've been MIA for a minute, I run my own business and its been crazy. I posted some pictures of what I did a few posts back. It turns off the light and so far so good. One day I'd like to install a pressure gauge and see what is all going on. I haven't really noticed anything driveability wise or engine sound wise. Seems to act the same. I guess at the very least, it'll save people a lot of $$$ to do this since it is a non-essential part as stated by Mercedes themselves!!
04-16-2024, 12:27 PM
