Amazing. Cheers.

I've checked all my wiring. Even soldered the bumper loom directly so there's no risk of future issues with having a plug.

I'm guessing it's fake "genuine" sensors I've purchased from ebay that are faulty after some use.

if I find a solution before you, I'll post it here.

 

I got a same error code after using china parking sensor.

Test with new parking module ,same problem.

Replace with genuine mercedes sensor and problem solved.
Hope this help.

 

Any joy with getting to the bottom of this? Having this issue myself and it's driving me rather nuts. Tried a new parking sensor module as per garages advice however no change.

Recently they have stopped working completely, whereas previously they worked for the first 10-15 miles now it's absolutely nothing..

 

Perhaps this can be a good dress-rehearsal for when the hard studf comes knocking.

-- Get a LAUNCH scanner or equivalent to diagnose what part got wet in your circuit.

-- Other possible ways are to hire you local intelligent specialist or replace wet sensors and oxidized harnesses.

Countless opportunities to be wrong without a scanner.

​​​Any option valid

 

Having same issues on my gls550. Does anyone have a solid solution ? No error message. Only way to know if with xentry code reader

 

The time to diagnose the parktronic can be spent much better. The whole system usually turns off at the slightest failure to protect itself. Good luck troubleshooting 6 harnessess and 54 separate sensors.

Star can show you detailed distance readings for every separate sensor in the system, even if it seems "off" looking at the car's dashboard.

I'd find a local guy with a Star diagnostics machine and agree on some reasonable fee for what is a very simple check.

 

 

I suppose a module could be pulling voltage, and if it's dead now then it's seems more likely. Excluding that, my first thought was your alternator output. Cali may have mentioned this but I didn't see it when I skimmed the thread. The LIN battery sensor works with the ECU to lower voltage, for what I assume is smog reasons. Many cars, mine included, often see very low voltage and I've often noticed it often happens when I get off the freeway and slow down, like you described. If I unplug the LIN then the ECU defaults to normal charging. So instead of averaging ~12.0V for me, but could be >14 on down to 10, it will now stay >14 at all times. I'm getting that voltage reading from the ECU so it's probably the same or similar for the other electronics.
So if you have the same voltage issue, it could easily see some device complaining about it. At the very least you, or any of you with some issue, could unplug it as a test.
Assuming yours is like mine, the LIN is the little black box on the Neg Batt cable at the battery. Just disconnect the little plug on it
The only drawback I've seen from doing that is you can no longer go into Xentry and see power usage, which it apparently records 24/7. Useful for troubleshooting power drains, especially when the car is off/parked, but otherwise seems pointless imo. If you ever need that data, simply plug it back in and it starts recording again.
Optionally I can get it to charge steadily ~14V +- .5 if I turn the heater or AC fan up to high. One click lower than high does nothing, it has to be full blast. I also tried headlights, and high beam, and misc other high drain toys like windows, seats etc, but it did nothing. So at least in my car, that high fan setting tells the ECU to bump voltage, but nothing else does.

My second thought was a Rat chewed the wires to my rear sensors and caused all kinds of grief. I don't recall the codes, but my issue was the CAN bus wires, which were all frayed and, apparently, randomly touching. Same could happen with the 12V wires, but I think it would pop a fuse if it did. Doesn't need to be Rats, could be a short on something sharp, or a section, maybe the plug, where the wires are broke except one last strand, or who knows what. If you suspect the wires then I'd wiggle and pull them to see if it triggers a code, and maybe a visual check, which I know is not easy.
I'd consider running 12V directly to that sensor a last resort, and only if fused, and Off when the ign is off. I'd also cut the original power line so no risk of trons going back the wrong way. Probably won't hurt it to have power going the wrong way, but who knows what it might do, and could be very expensive if it didn't like it :o