Batman

1997 Mercedes Benz E-320 with 118,000 miles

-check engine and brake lining lights were on, but cleared after removing and charging the battery
-battery was half full when removed
-abs and asr lights are still on even after battery was removed and replaced
-rough idle at 700-800 rpm only revs up to 4,000 rpm in neutral
-on a cold start, the car dies a few seconds after starting it, unless I put it in neutral and give it gas
-both oxygen sensors were replaced recently
-maf seemed to be clean when I checked it last night

any ideas?

I found this post while researching, could this be the problem?
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ighlight=relay

Batman

I called the parts department today to see if they had a Over Voltage Protection Relay for my car and they said that it doesn't use one. I still think it's a relay (maybe abs?). The battery is relatively new (maybe a year old?). Has anyone here changed the ABS relay? If so, how?
Thanks

Batman

The front right brake pads are worn down, but the front left ones aren't. So I'm guessing one of the calipers is stuck. I'm picking up new seal rings tomorrow and I'll keep you all updated. While at the dealership today, I asked a tech what he thought about the ABS/ASR lights being on and he said it's usually the brake light switch. So, I might pick one of those up tomorrow too.

Darkmann

Batman, did you ever get this problem resolved?? I just read your post ans as far as I know, 90% of the problems where the ABS/BAS lights come on are rekated to the brake light switch. However these problems are never coupled with the vehicle stalling/quitting in anyway. So I suspect you might have a much deeper problem. What was the resolution??

Batman

Darkmann, I'm still working on it actually. I'm getting some parts in the morning. I might have some questions tomorrow evening though, we'll see.

vinamg

Check the throttle actuator. ABS/ASR and stalling are signs of a faulty throttle actuator (bad wire harness).

Batman

VinAMG, I've heard something about that too (from a tech I know). How do I check it? Where is it?

vinamg

Cruise control/throttle actuator is located under your intake manifold. Techs usually test it via Star then slice open the harness to confirm shorting. This is not a DIY job, I would recommend taking it to a qualified technician.

Batman

vinamg, thanks for the info.

It turns out, both of the front (L&R) pads were worn out so I replaced them (and the sensors), and flushed the fluid. The abs/asr lights were off when I started the car, but they came back on when I got to the bottom of my driveway. So, I don't know what's going on there. Possibly the brake switch?

On the positive side, the car didn't die when I started it up and the idle seemed alright.

I drove the car around to make sure everything was ok. While I had it out, I wanted to see if the engine was still acting up. I notice a "pop pop" (that sounds like it's coming from the transmission) right before the car starts to accelerate when I step on the gas WOT. It hesitates, and it doesn't get too high in the rpms like it should. I hope it's not the transmission.

I'll drive it around tomorrow and see if anything changes. I'll probably be taking it in to the dealer soon.

I'll post an update tomorrow evening.

Batman

Well, no progress yet. I'm going on vacation tomorrow and I'll be gone for 3 weeks. I might have someone take the car in while I'm gone though. So, if that happens, I'll post an update when I get back. Happy Holidays everybody!

Batman

Looks like Darkmann was right. It turned out to be a faulty brake switch (which, by the way, is a PITA to replace) and another bad MAF (there should be some kind of warranty on these things). So, I replaced the air filter too, even though the old one seemed pretty clean. I hope this thread helps someone.

Thanks to Darkmann and everyone else for your help and knowledge.

Kestas

Thanks for posting the fix. I'm beginning to see problems with the brake switch on many other MB models as well.

Batman

Yesterday, I started the car up and the check engine light came on again
It ran a little rough and it was most noticable when stopped at a red light. I got the codes scanned and here's what came up:

P0034 Cylinder 4 Misfire
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0130 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Keep in mind, I've recently changed 2 oxygen sensors and the MAF. How many O2 sensors does this car have?

Anyone have any ideas about what this might be?
Thanks

vinamg

2 Oxygen Sensors.

I would check plug wires/boots.

Batman

The wires are pretty new as well, but I will definitely check them out just in case. I'll try to do it tonight. Any other ideas until then?

vinamg

Did you replace with original wires? Did you change the boots under the coils?
104 misfires are usually wires, boots, or bad coils. Another possibility is a bad wire harness.

Batman

No, I used Bosch wires. :o I don't remember if I changed the boots or not. I'm guessing I probably did not. I'd have to look. I was tired last night, so I didn't really feel like working on it. Maybe tonight.
Thanks Vin.