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I recently got myself a 2011 Mercedes GL350, and I absolutely love it. I have replaced the timing chain and guides and a front air strut, besides that it runs like new now. I got 2 issues with it, one for starting, and one for the AIRMatic, but that will be for another thread.
I recently started to get this weird starting issue with my GL, it now started to intermittently give me like a half crank with no start. I would push the start and the starter would crank the engine for a half crank and just die. This can happen anywhere from 1 to as much as 5 times in a row untill it then gives me a proper full start and crank and start the engine as normal. No check engine. Sometimes this issue doesn't even come up and I just start and go, no matter if its cold or hot.
I have swapped the starter relay as I got a code for a relay or fuse "Power to Relay it Fuse unexpectedly lost" or something like that. So I swapped the starter relay and the issue still persists. This is an intermittent issue, it happened once yesterday, this morning it took 4 before giving me a full crank. Sometimes none. And it started happening like a week ago, and I'm out of ideas. Can someone help me resolve this? I will scan the car with XENTRY when I get home and post the codes.
I recently got myself a 2011 Mercedes GL350, and I absolutely love it. I have replaced the timing chain and guides and a front air strut, besides that it runs like new now. I got 2 issues with it, one for starting, and one for the AIRMatic, but that will be for another thread.
I recently started to get this weird starting issue with my GL, it now started to intermittently give me like a half crank with no start. I would push the start and the starter would crank the engine for a half crank and just die. This can happen anywhere from 1 to as much as 5 times in a row untill it then gives me a proper full start and crank and start the engine as normal. No check engine. Sometimes this issue doesn't even come up and I just start and go, no matter if its cold or hot.
I have swapped the starter relay as I got a code for a relay or fuse "Power to Relay it Fuse unexpectedly lost" or something like that. So I swapped the starter relay and the issue still persists. This is an intermittent issue, it happened once yesterday, this morning it took 4 before giving me a full crank. Sometimes none. And it started happening like a week ago, and I'm out of ideas. Can someone help me resolve this?
I will scan the car with XENTRY when I get home and post the codes.
Any help is appreciated, thanks.
Let's see how far you go with Xentry. Use is to troubleshoot your starter brushes.
How many Miles on your GL??
Go inspect and clean the single chassisGND strap all the way under near tranny flange.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jun 24, 2025 at 01:10 PM.
Let's see how far you go with Xentry. Use is to troubleshoot your starter brushes.
How many Miles on your GL??
Go inspect and clean the single chassisGND strap all the way under near tranny flange.
It has 183,xxx km, I hooked up XENTRY, but the 2011 still use MB DAS. And it's not the fastest or advanced as Xentry. I tried to diagnose the started under CDI module but could not find any options regarding the starter. So I am not sure how. I will check out the codes and send them here when I get home today. I will update you on those later.
The issue hasn't come up today, but this is the code from when it did come up. I could not find any info on this. Can someone explain what this could be?
The issue hasn't come up today, but this is the code from when it did come up. I could not find any info on this.
Can someone explain what this could be?
Great, you're one step closer to a fix.
Fault#2 STORED: "The internal control unit reset..." may be caused by the same unstable power. A shadow of main fault!!
power relay switching early in F-SAM box
Can you source the diagram showing what is "relay F58kD"
- There's a chance something is causing it to act up... ie. don't rush at replacing untested parts.
It may be a bad connection....
Let's understand what this circuit does.
Is this about your glow plug ... starter gets cuts off when glowing stops prematurely ??
Its been 2 weeks and this issue has been happening almost every day now. In the morning the car will not start, continues to give me these half cranks and stops. I have already swapped the battery out to a different one and same issue. The one thing I have noticed is that if I connect my booster pack to the jumper prongs under the hood the car will almost always start right then. BUT THE BATTERY IS GOOD! If the battery would be bad it would give me slow and dying cranks, like any car it would attempt to start untill it won't turn. The only issue that i see come up is for thr CDI ECU "11E700". I can't find any info on this.
This is frustrating as i love the car but this issue is a headache. No idea what this is. I have attached 2 youtube links to what this issue looks like. And a picture of the codes. Please help, I'm lost.
You clearly have:
"Extremely slow crank regardless of fresh battery."
80% chance STARTER has one short brush
10% chance Main GND strap is poor.
10% chance combination: strap + starter
I would test a bypass of chassis GND strap...
then focus on the starter: either a new brushset or whole unit.
+++ NOT TO MENTION...
all power cable connections are normally tight ie. not loose or oxidized. Be very careful when dealing with (+) side: disconnect GND post is safest!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jul 20, 2025 at 05:58 PM.
You clearly have:
"Extremely slow crank regardless of fresh battery."
80% chance STARTER has one short brush
10% chance Main GND strap is poor.
10% chance combination: strap + starter
I would test a bypass of chassis GND strap...
then focus on the starter: either a new brushset or whole unit.
+++ NOT TO MENTION...
all power cable connections are normally tight ie. not loose or oxidized. Be very careful when dealing with (+) side: disconnect GND post is safest!
Thanks for your detailed help! If you say its an 80% chance the starter is bad, then explain this. If i get to thr car in thr morning and press start and it does that, then I connect my booster pack to the jumper prongs and try again, it cranks good and starts. If it is the starter, how can i check its brushes? I can take it opp but i dont know what to look for on it when i have it off. Also what does the code "Internal Reset done" on the engine ECU mean?
Thanks for help!
Thanks for your detailed help! If you say its an 80% chance the starter is bad, then explain this. If i get to thr car in thr morning and press start and it does that, then I connect my booster pack to the jumper prongs and try again, it cranks good and starts. If it is the starter, how can i check its brushes? I can take it opp but i dont know what to look for on it when i have it off. Also what does the code "Internal Reset done" on the engine ECU mean?
Thanks for help!
The help from booster pack suggest you could have low battery charge.
the best way to rule that out is simply to charge up your new battery overnight then try starting without a jump pack.
Starter motors run from 4x carbon brushes... as soon as one is too short you get slow crank as in video.
The help from booster pack suggest you could have low battery charge.
the best way to rule that out is simply to charge up your new battery overnight then try starting without a jump pack.
Starter motors run from 4x carbon brushes... as soon as one is too short you get slow crank as in video.
This morning when I went to start, it first gave me a half crank, and one the second try it fired right up. After work it fired right up again no issue.
The help from booster pack suggest you could have low battery charge.
the best way to rule that out is simply to charge up your new battery overnight then try starting without a jump pack.
Starter motors run from 4x carbon brushes... as soon as one is too short you get slow crank as in video.
This morning when I went to start, it first gave me a half crank, and one the second try it fired right up. After work it fired right up again no issue.
Do you have a part number for the carbon brushes by the way?
This morning when I went to start, it first gave me a half crank, and one the second try it fired right up. After work it fired right up again no issue.
Do you have a part number for the carbon brushes by the way?
You need to source the spare brush-set that matches your actual starter model number.
Bosch starter brushset
> Plan B : new starter by Bosch.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jul 21, 2025 at 08:02 PM.
Quick Update. This has gotten weirder and weirder. I noted there were some codes for the ignition module as well but I thought it was just one of those codes that comes up and gets stored. But just to test it I swapped the keys to my 2nd key, and ever since doing that. I have not had a slow start since, and it's been more then 2 weeks!
This just pisses me off more because now I really have no clue what it could be. Because with the other key the car clearly recognizes it because otherwise it would not even turn the ignition on. But for some reason that key causes a slow start.
Quick Update. This has gotten weirder and weirder. I noted there were some codes for the ignition module as well but I thought it was just one of those codes that comes up and gets stored. But just to test it I swapped the keys to my 2nd key, and ever since doing that. I have not had a slow start since, and it's been more then 2 weeks!
This just pisses me off more because now I really have no clue what it could be. Because with the other key the car clearly recognizes it because otherwise it would not even turn the ignition on. But for some reason that key causes a slow start.
Next step is to go back to the original key and see if you can still experience the problem. If so, it's specific key related. This doesn't tell us if it is the key, but isolates a little further. Are there any fault codes given with the second (good) key? If so, see where they lead in relation to the troublesome key.
UPDATE.
I had pushed the issue back a bit because of time constraints and other projects. But the issue is still happening with both keys. It has started to become worse as the temperatures get colder in the morning. There is times where I have to start it 8-20 times before it gives me a full crank and starts. As soon as I get a proper longer crank, it does start immediately with no issues. The issues are the half cranks im getting. I just removed the started as @CaliBenzDriver suggested it could be the brushes and disassembled it to investigate.
I found that its very dirty of graphite inside (which I assume is normal for a GL with 190,xxx km). I cant tell if the brushes are bad. Can someone tell me if they are bad an need to be replaced? My plan was to clean everything up, put it back together, and hope for the best. I did this with my Polaris ATV and it started to work after. But on the GL its a pain to remove, you have to raise the engine to get the starter out.
If someone could tell me if the brushes are good or bad, I can bring it to my local Alternator/Starter repair shop for a repair, before putting it back together. I appreciate all the help and input from everyone in this forum. Housing 1 Housing 2 Brushes 1 Brushes 2 Brushes 3
Bingo, you car in in good hands: you nearly have yourself a starter fix!
these 4x brushes are worned short... replace brushset!
Now buy a brush-set for that alternator presumably made by BOSCH/VALEO and specifically NOT a "compatible" no-name from China.
I don't believe Mercedes retail these components. Perhaps FCP-Euro, Amazon or Google search.
Be sure it's made by the starter company not made for starter type by a misc supplier.
excellent shape like-new rotor rings
Cheap compatible "brush copies" work but kill the starter soft copper rings with hard carbon brushes.
The original use extra-soft carbon over soft copper rotor. A perfect match!
brushset example
Source the right OE brushset for your starter model number.
Spend one hour poking around the Internet for genuine parts only.
If not available buy a new starter to not have to deal with starter repair of bad brushes + copper rings again.
Now schedule a Visit with your Alternator for exactly the same brushset issue maintenance item at your mileage...
Include a serpentine kit including mandatory tensioner + idlers.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 11, 2025 at 07:20 PM.
Excellent advice as always, CaliBenzDriver!
Definitely change the brushes or replace the whole thing.
Remember to clean everything well. Clean between the copper bits too. Otherwise, get a whole new one. That one has seen its day.
Excellent advice as always, CaliBenzDriver!
Definitely change the brushes or replace the whole thing.
Remember to clean everything well. Clean between the copper bits too. Otherwise, get a whole new one. That one has seen its day.
Steve, you're too kind - Enjoy my shared opinions!
I have been reminded 3rd party interests dislike when end-user INDIVIDUALS HELP ONE ANOTHER for free on internet forums...
"What you mis-perceive as "advice" are actually UNQUALIFIED PERSONAL OPINIONS shared by NON-PROFESIONNAL UNQUALIFIED individual forum member.... Honest individuals users are welcome to browse forums others should NOT act upon public Internet opinions and visit factory Dealers for professional MB services."
> Don't try anything at home: lease a new vehicle with included repairs.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Oct 11, 2025 at 07:21 PM.
Steve, you're too kind - Enjoy my shared opinions!
I have been reminded 3rd party interests dislike when end-user INDIVIDUALS HELP ONE ANOTHER for free on internet forums...
"What you mis-perceive as "advice" are actually UNQUALIFIED PERSONAL OPINIONS shared by NON-PROFESIONNAL UNQUALIFIED individual forum member.... Honest individuals users are welcome to browse forums others should NOT act upon public Internet opinions and visit factory Dealers for professional MB services."
> Don't try anything at home: lease a new vehicle with included repairs.
Thanks for the great advice @CaliBenzDriver ! I am going to see my local Alternator/Starter repair shop after the holidays to see if he can change the brushes, then gonna give it a hood clean and reassemble. I will post an update after this has all been done.
Thanks for the great advice @CaliBenzDriver ! I am going to see my local Alternator/Starter repair shop after the holidays to see if he can change the brushes, then gonna give it a hood clean and reassemble. I will post an update after this has all been done.
Leon: you're very welcomed...
my personal opinions are not professional advice.
Qualified professionals advising individuals for free or fishing for business under the table are in a whole different nightmare.
Lucky I'm just an unqualified non-profesional helping out... bad habit ???
Qualified professionals advising individuals for free or fishing for business under the table are in a whole different nightmare.
Lucky I'm just an unqualified non-profesional helping out... bad habit ???
See on the internet if you locate GENUINE PARTS.
I have yet to find a part number for the brush set. I have found some familiar looking ones from BOSH, which may fit. But the shipping is too long, and I really dont want to resemble it just to redo this painful process again when the new set comes in. The Engineers really couldn't find a better place to put the starter. You really have to raise the engine to remove it like the manual says, and trust me. I really tried to avoid that step.
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