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Help with fault in the Active Roll Stabilization (ARS)
I'm getting a fault as shown below, in the Active Roll Stabilization ARS - P1C9513, "The rotation direction valve of torsion bar 'Front axle' has a malfunction, there is an open circuit"
The sensor signal for this fault is noted a Y36/11. Can anyone help me pinpoint the location of this valve or sensor connection? I'm hoping it's a loose connection or an easily replaceable valve part. I know STAR computer will give the exact signal for this Y36/11 and identify the location.
Can you look up bleed procedure for the hydraulic system? I want to try changing the fluid. I may have to drop the valve block to get to the connection for testing and assessment. Since the lines are hard, I may have to remove them from the block anyway to drop it down.
If you can not ID the said Y36/11 which one it is ( example if there are 2 or 3 valves there ), trace its wire color from wiring diagram.
You are welcome
I can't open the file types in the folder. I would like to test continuity of each valve connection from the plug up top to start. Maybe the wires are in pairs of similar colors.
The bleed should be there, I was collecting as much data as I can on 468 stuff.
Mine is freebie WIS 2020 I got from internet, not 100% complete though but good enough.
I have a WIS 2018 DVD ebay version, very slow virtual machines it uses.
Since MB WIS is PC based, so XPS is the default print out to file, at least on both my 2018 and 2020.
Any DIY happy MB owner must get the WIS, it is very important and its a steep learning curve to simply use the WIS , totally inferior search engine capability this software is.
You can't copy and paste text to search window, you can't copy and past text to create XPS document title ....euuwwwggghhh so Jurassic
If you can PM me a link for WIS you found online that would be excellent.
I was able to convert the prints. It seems the "bleeding" is very basic, the pump runs with the engine and forces pressurized fluid throughout the system. It just says to run the engine for a bit, check for bubbles, top up, and repeat until the level in the tank is stable. Only if the hydraulic pump is replaced there is an extra step of adding a small pressure to the tank to force fluid into the dry pump.
I will investigate the electrical connection to the identified solenoid/valve piece when I get a chance with the car cool. Hopefully I can reach up in there on top to wiggle it a bit. If that does not resolve the issue, it looks like I'll be buying a replacement valve block assembly. I can't find any part number or source for the individual components identified. At least the removal seems pretty easy as well as the "bleed". The valve block is very exposed under the car.
Well, I was able to reach the electrical connection to the valve. checked it, cleaned it. I tested the wiring by putting a small wire in the 2 connection pins for a loop-back and got continuity on the pins at the top of the harness. I'm getting continuity on the 2 pins from the other valve next to it, but nothing when I test the problem valve. I have ordered a used valve block from Ebay, as well as fluid and new o-rings for the pressure lines attached to the valve block. Seems like an easy replacement. I hope the used one is good for only $200 rather than about $850 for a new one. At least I'll have some extra valves if another one fails in the future.
Used valve block solved the problem. Really not a bad job at all, easily accessible. If anyone has a problem with errors on the front block valves I'm storing my old block with the various valves still working other than the one that's giving error. Hit me up and I'll send a valve if you need one. I haven't tried removing the individual valves yet, but seems possible.
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............ attached documents in ZIP
, totally inferior search engine capability this software is.
