Eaton M45 Porting
In USA, where the SC is a must in tuning, there is no serious improving the MP45, and I had to start from scratch. After seeing many-ported SC I decide to do some porting work, ie opening the exit port, normalization and polishing the air intake on the back and closing the four holes of air relief. For the holes, I did not use jb weld or so but I make cups from aluminum. In order the cups to stay in place I cut pieces of industrial rubber plate 10mm thickness and fill the holes in both sides of the sc exit, as you can see in the pictures.
Let us see in what rpm the EATON rotor spins, from OEM until the upper limit it can spin with custom crank - sc pulley:
1. Crank 175mm / supercharger 72mm = 2,43 gearing X 6.200rpm = 15.100 (All the 163hp with the 2080, 2180, 2380 etc.
2. Crank 175mm / supercharger 65mm = 2,69 gearing X 6.200rpm = 16.700 with the 184hp and 192hp with the 2780
3. Crank 175mm / supercharger custom 62mm = 2,82 gearing X 6.200rpm = 17.500
4. Crank 195mm/supercharger 65mm = 3 gearing X 6.200rpm = 18.600 (Kleemman)
5. Crank 195mm / supercharger 62mm = 3,14 gearing X 6.200rpm = 19.500
6. Crank 195mm / supercharger 65mm = 3 gearing X 7.000rpm = 21.000
7. Crank 195mm / supercharger 62mm = 3,14 gearing X 7.000rpm = 22.000 which is the maximum you can spin the MP45 in M271, because there is no space for other pulley combination. For the limit of 22.000rpm will need several interventions in functionality, such as oil cooling system for the oil in the snout drive gears and lighting the rotors by 30-40% in order to reduce parasitic losses and affect the reliability of as much as possible.
First a 2080 MP45 was selected, a 62mm pulley was placed and apart from the work of porting it was partially rebuilt: the coupler was replaced, the oil was changed, the housing has been polished inside with special OINTMENT Unipol, the o-ring filler cap was changed and also the special grease blue color Beveroil (Lilac) inside the back bearing.
In order to replace the front bearings of the rotors you have to take them apart and it is very difficult to put them together because you need special timing machine to reinstall them properly. I would not recommend someone to dare. The opening of the air outlet was made on a mill and the polishing by hand and custom made flexible with long nose to polish the most part and not hurt the inside of the housing where the rotors are turning and damage the SC.
The SC was spinning for 7 days at 21.000rpm and then "caboom". Second attempt with another 2080, was also end in 7 days with another broken SC. My conclusion is that the 2080 cannot spin more than the 19.500rpm. When opened, the drive gears were destroyed.
Third attempt was made with a 2780 from C230 which use a spring for the rotation and not the plastic coupler, which is spinning many months now without problems.
Spinning the SC more than 19.500rpm causing too much stress and high temperature inside the snout and the SC brake down. To avoid facing the problem it should be installed a closed-circuit oil cooling system in order to reduce the temperature and avoid the heat to be transported to SC body. This system will work with a low flow fuel pump, an oil cooler, an expansion tank, a relief valve and some hoses.
Below are some photos of the project. I opened this topic for those interested to know about and to exchange ideas and thoughts, which are welcome.
Those who wish to enter the above procedure should know that no one could give warranty to a mechanical assembly, which rotates 5.300rpm more than the maximum limit, according the manufacturer.
The SC is on two SLK200K giving a gain of 8RWHP. The boost rise to 1,15bar making 199RWHP at 6.700rpm, on a Mustang dyno. Also a 5bar fuel pressure regulator, 195mm crankshaft pulley, bigger IC, improvement of air supply piping, headers, free flow catalyst and a remap of the ECU by a tuner who has the DAMOS files of the SIM4LKE, is the only way.
The last problems I am working on, is:
1. the MAF limits out at 180g/sec and doesn't allow the pressure to rise more opening the bypass valve, even I have try bigger MAP. Attempts of changing or decaling the MAF heart idle and performance.
2. does anyone know how I can merge the wiring of the throttle body connector in order to put the throttle body of a SLK350 which is bigger? In "autodata 3.38' the wires are different as you can see in the photos.
Any ideas will be appreciated.
PS: Sorry for my English.
Last edited by gogos; Feb 10, 2013 at 02:56 AM.
Last edited by gogos; Feb 9, 2013 at 03:33 PM.
Last edited by gogos; Feb 11, 2013 at 08:27 AM.
With the bigger IC and the waterspray the max IAT I have log, spinning theM45 at 21.000rpm, no more 40-41 Celsius on a hot day of 38 C.
The system use AEM 250psi pump, AEM filter, high pressure nozzles, the xenon tank from a C203 station vagon and a controller from Labtronics.
The IC waterspray is a DIY and if anyone want infos I can post a how to. You can check some photos.
Do You the part number of the 195mm crankshaft pulley?, or where can I get one?.
Thank You for the information.
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Do You the part number of the 195mm crankshaft pulley?, or where can I get one?.
Thank You for the information.
Before you put any pulley on you engine, find a tunner that can remap the ECU. No remap no any Hp gain. Your engine puts out 192 Crank Hp at 0,9bar. The factory map reads only 1bar so I dont think that you need any pulley. You need a remap from a tuner who has the damos files of the SIM4LKE in order to be able to rise the boost and to change the A/F ratio and to see some good Hp gain.
Last edited by gogos; May 29, 2013 at 12:40 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Regards.
The most tuners have access only to the map for timing advance and fuel. If you don't change the A/F Ratio and the boost maps then the pre-cat O2 wide band sensor will cut the fuel that has been added in order to keep the target A/FR with in the factory limits. Also if you change the crank pulley with a bigger one the ECU will use the S/C Bypass valve to keep the boost at factory limits.
With the Damos files you can handle the factory ECU like a stand alone and you have access to all the ECU maps. And trust me they are too many in there.
PS: I don't run any remap store, but I am o loco DIY'er
who don't want to feed his ECU with can remaps. I bought my car on '04 and the last two years I manage to see some results.
Last edited by RHINOSPEED; Jun 10, 2013 at 08:59 PM.
The big diference in the whole project has be done with the ported M45 on. That's why I post all the details about it, for anyone that wants to try it. Thanks again for your info.
I have download today ECM Titanium and it is very nice. Friendly interface and with the help from the manual you can play very nice.....
Last edited by gogos; Jun 17, 2013 at 09:34 AM.
Can you tell me more about your IC Waterspray DIY ?
Do you use an aftermarket watercooled IC and modified it?
What means the Numbers 2080, 2180, 2380 etc. - i got a M111 E20 ML EVO with 163hp and Eaton M45 charger. Is there a comparison about the Numbers and the Eaton M45 Generations ? I should have a 3rd Gen M45 at mine!
Can you tell me more about your IC Waterspray DIY ?
Do you use an aftermarket watercooled IC and modified it?
What means the Numbers 2080, 2180, 2380 etc. - i got a M111 E20 ML EVO with 163hp and Eaton M45 charger. Is there a comparison about the Numbers and the Eaton M45 Generations ? I should have a 3rd Gen M45 at mine!
2. There are two ways to make an IC water spray.
For the simple one you need a tank for the water with a pump on it. If the pump is for the xenon washers is better because the water pressure is better. Then comes the noozles which must be low pressure full cone and the lines for the water. Finnaly in order to activate the system, you need an adjustable pressure switch, an anti dip valve, a relay and an on/off switch. It will cost you about 80$ and you can use simple water.
For a "highend" system you need a water tank, a high pressure water pump (I choose the 250psi pump from AEM's water methanol kit), a good water filter (I also choose the one from AEM's kit), high pressure full cone misting noozles, a controller for the system from elabtronics, a relay and an on/off switch. It will cost you about 450$ but it worth because it spent 80% less water than the simple one but you have to use water for ironing. (Sorry I dont know the word)
The IAT will rise no more than 40-41oC on a hot summer day of 38oC. You can read many articles at www.autospeed.com regarding the water IC spray.
3. The 4 digits have to do with the type of the supercharger and only for the M271 engine. You can also do porting to the M45 SC from the M111 engine.
Now I am on holidays and I will be back on the the end of the month. Till then make some reading on the net about intercooler water spray and let me know which system you prefer and I will help you out.
Best regards, George.
Last edited by gogos; Jul 14, 2013 at 11:25 AM.
I have a 200k from 2005. I can't understand what type of eaton i have!!
The serial number on the K's chassis is: A2710902380. Gogos said the m45 K is in the M271...so what's mine?
I have just changed the s/c pulley with a 62.5mm ca one. And after that i discovered that a previous owner has changed for sure also the crank, but i don't know the exact measure.
Here you are some photos to understand what i mean.
this is the crank pulley modified and the tag on the s/c chassis:
Yeah, i forgot to mention the most important thing, i have a 200k my2005 r171 (don't blame me, i got it used with BRC gpl plant).
Anyway, things are going this way: i have changed the SC pulley with one built by a friend of mine. It's ca 62.5mm (another guy bought another pulley from him, after ECU the dyno said 187cv).
While we were working to the SC (i have changed the oil after having changed the pulley), we noticed that the original crank pulley was surrounded by another piece of steel. So i realized that the previous owner did the crank mod.
It was not so easy to take the measure, so i took the thickness of that piece (you can see from the photo) and it's 10mm. Considering the original pulley to be 175mm (is it correct?), adding 10mm x 2 (side to side) i have the crank pulley with 195mm. Ah, it is ok with the water pulley, i notice no space problems.
On monday i'll go to ECU and dyno the car...hope it won't burst!

ps. sorry for the bad pics quality!
Anyway, watch this: i did a dyno after few days i bought it (i didn't know about the crank, it was already changed). It seems like to have stock power...is due to the lack of the remap?
Last edited by Giampaolo84; Aug 31, 2013 at 09:29 AM.
From my photo it is not easy to catch the gap, but more less is the same like in your pic.
Last edited by Giampaolo84; Sep 3, 2013 at 04:05 AM.
Sorry for my english, i'll try to explain what happened in a few words:
put the car on the dyno with the manometer on, at 5000rpm in V the K pressure was about 1.2bar and the car had the recovery signal.
Now we can say for sure that also the Crank has been changed by the previous owner... i'm thinking to take it off in order to finish the map!




