Just like the title states what other MB's does the R-Class share it's wheel bolt pattern with? I would like to upgrade the wheels at some point but might consider some AMG's from another Mercedes Benz if they would fit. Anyone ever tried this yet or have an R with AMG's or another MB wheel? I'm not really a fan of any of the OEM R-Class wheels personally, even the R63 AMG's are just OK compared to some of the others.

 

The bolt pattern is 5 x 112 mm. Just off the cuff my guesses are the same models made in Tuscaloosa - GL, M, R, and maybe some GLK? I would definitely check fitment with your dealer parts guy.

For the R, Parts listings specifically are 8J x 18 H2 ET 67 (255/55 WR 18 105H); 8J x 19 H2 ET 67 (255-50-R19 103W), and the 8.5 J x 19 H2 ET64 (front) and 9.5 J x 19 H2 ET 66 (rear).

Europe shows a 8.5 J x 20 ET 60. (265-45 R20).

I had a devil of a time finding a used set of the sexy 20 or 21 inch AMG wheels (a-la-R63) (which are staggered sets usually on ebay) so settled on a set of 18" 5 twin-spokes. (the 8J x 18 ET67 with 255 55-R18s) Of course there is the flatter looking 5-spoke 19" AMG wheel 8.5J x 19 ET 64.

Then there is the 255-50-19 Situla, the 255 55 18 10-fin, the the 255-50-19 five spoke with small 2 chunks on the rim and between the spokes, the beautiful and expensive 265 45 R20 Alanz (8.5 J x 20 ET 61).

Then there is the base-wheel on early models, the 7 spoke - 7.5 J x 17 ET 56 with 235 65 R17s...

The order for the specs above is
1. Internal rim width in inches
2. Code letter for height and contour of rim flange
3. Code for one-piece drop center rim
4. Rim diameter in inches
5. Rim profile at outside and inside with hump shoulder
6. Wheel offset.

So for 6 J X 15 H2 ET49
1. is 6
2. is J
3. is X
4. is 15
5. is H2
6. is ET49

 

Thanks for the info, I was hoping we could fit wheels from the E,CLS & S as the wheels from the GL,ML are not the most attractive. Even the AMG's that come on the ML63 aren't the nicest.

 

As regards bolt pattern, the answer is all of them.

As regards fitting wheels from other model Mercedes, the answer is probably none of them.

You really need to stay with OE wheel widths and offsets and tire sizes, and it would be pretty surprising to find another model with same specs as your R.

And, I can promise you wheels from another model will look dumb.

 

You can check with folks in ML and GL forums to see whether their specs are the same as ours.

 

Yeah I wondered this, My salesman at the MB dealer told us the R was built since from an S-Class chassis hence why the ride was so compliant. But he said since the R is also an AWD vehicle they had to use suspension & brake components from the GL & ML. Any truth or fact to any of this or just salesman BS?

 

The offset is different.....no luck with MLs....I wanted GL wheels...

 

(Just my preference for the R).

 

I agree those look good

 

To my knowledge the bolt pattern is the same across the lineup. As mentioned above, you need to know the actual wheel size to see if it fits. A little known tid bit is MB has started their own line of wheels to keep up with the aftermarket guys. These are from the AWD lineup and "should" fit the R class, as mentioned though you will want to check clearance sizes first.

 

This has to be the all-time greatest looking wheel for the R.
(It's from the GST Concept).

See link at:

http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/phot...GST_Photo.aspx

 

I think it was you that posted about those wheels once before. MB has a wheel similar to that, I don't believe its available in the States, but it comes on the GLK Sport Package in Canada. Has the same idea, but in a more user friendly version.

 

It's 100% BS.

The GL, ML, and R are all built in the same Alabama factory.

There are lots and lots of common parts.

Besides engines and transmissions, there are next to zero parts in common with any other models, i.e. those made in Europe like the S-class.

 

I recently read somewhere that they are about to start producing another one of their cars in Alabama as well. And it's not an SUV or "crossover". It's the C Class!

 

That's right. They'll be building some C Class in Alabama to keep up with the demand.

 

Seems like C-Class hype has settled around my parts, similar cars in it's class have surpassed it in almost every category except owning a car with a star on the hood and the prestige that comes with that. My dealer is flooded with 2010's, left over 2009's and overstocked with '08 &'09 lease returns and service rentals. I liked my '08 C300 Sport when we had it but I got tired of seeing myself at every stoplight, highway and parking lot. The exclusivity of the R is certainly welcomed.

 

These are my favorites so far...but alas, I don't think they fit.

http://www.usarim.com/product_info.p...oducts_id=1235

 

Those look great too! Any reason why they wouldn't work? Also I was told you could not put staggered with wheels on an AWD as it throws off something in the gearing??? Any truth to this?

 

New member a bid confused about the numbers...
Nevertheless, I purchased 18" wheels from ML350 (MB Part number A164 401 03 02) with almost new OEM Conti 4x4 tires and after having them nicely balanced, the mechanic had a problem mounting the wheel. It turns out that the bolt appeared to short. Do I simply need longer bolts? He did not check rest of the wholes so I am not even sure if the wheel will fit. I called the MB service before the purchase and they told me that it should fit and now the bolt issue...
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you!!!!

Here are all the numbers from the back of the rim:
A164 401 03 02
B6 647 42 88
8j x 18H2 ET80
SI 7 Wa

They made in Mexico and I am attaching not actual picture (I borrowed it from other sites)

 

Vexlak,
Unfortunately ML wheels have, from what I've been told and seen, a unique offset for the 2006-2010 ML's only.....60mm I believe....I have been looking for a second set of wheels for my 08 ML and not found any other class, so far, that will directly bolt on.
Are you sure those are 18 inch? I've seen that exact photo on eBay listing them as 19 inch.
If they're 19 inch, I'm interested.

 

Thank you for your reply. Mine are definitely 18" (look at the numbers from the back of the rim that I entered in my previous posting). I only "borrowed" the picture for the posting from the 19" eBay listing.
When you mention the offset, does it mean that it will not fit after all? Using longer logs, studs, bolts or screws would not do the trick? And if they do, do you think the bolt pattern is the same?
Any help is appreciated.

 

I am certainly no expert on wheels, I would hate to give poor advice that ended in catastrophy. Certain items that involve high speed stability should be left to experts.
I have seen other threads where people have used spacers to accommodate different offsets, but I have no experience. If it's not a direct fit, I'm sticking with factory.
I would contact Luke at Tirerack.....they are very helpful and extremely knowledgeable...keep us posted.

 

Like said above, the bolt pattern is the same (even if you go and check MBs from late 80s). But the bolt length depends on the thickness of your wheel from the center of the wheel (that's why you have different size of bolts for your spare tire, it's steel wheel, which is pretty thin when compared to your alloy wheels).

Offset matters because it basically tells how far is the wheel's "mounting surface" (or whatever it's called) from the center of the wheel. The smaller the offset, the closer is the surface to the center of the wheel. Ie. if you go smaller offset than your current wheel and if the wheel is the same width, then the wheel will come more out. And if bigger offset, then the wheel will go more in, which means it may touch suspension, brake calibers etc.

Small change with the ET doesn't usually matter (it's measured in millimeters so you get the idea of the difference), and actually if you go wider wheels, you typically need to have different ET to fit wheels properly. If you go wider wheels, you actually should have smaller offset than your current ones to get the same clearances to suspension parts.

You can actually calculate the difference in your wheels.
Your new wheel: 8j x 18H2 ET80 (which has BTW huge offset, you sure it's ET80?)
OEM is ? but let's take one of mentioned 7.5 J x 17 ET 56 (I supposed you were up-sizing from 17 to 18 inches)
New wheel's inner edge will be about 30 mm more inside than the old one. This sounds quite a lot, if these numbers are from your old and new wheels, I would be concerned if the new wheels (or tire) would hit some suspension parts etc. Of course if your OEM wheel is e.g. 8J x 18 H2 ET 67 then the difference is only 13 mm which is not so much anymore (about half an inch), but still sometimes causing problems.

Anyway, the offset doesn't matter in your bolt length problem, so either the new wheel is thicker or maybe they tried to use spacers (to adjust the offset, ie. to get wheels more out) and that's why the bolt is now too short? (I wouldn't personally use spacers but rather find more suitable wheel)

 

Thank you for your response.
I consulted with Phil from radusadirect.com. He was very helpful. He said that the MB uses longer (not larger) bolt lugs from 18" and higher. That is my case. You are correct that the wheel is thicker ion the middle which naturally needs longer screws. I am waiting for the lugs to arrive and as soon as I have update I will post it here.

BTW all numbers that I previously entered are from the wheel stamp. Again, this is a OEM wheel from a ML.

 

When I moved from factory 17's on my R to factory 18's - I also had to buy a complete set of longer bolts. Don't forget to check which bolts your space-saver spare uses and keep those with the spare (ie. do not swap these out with the new bolts).