mbmom

Hi ... my first time posting! Got 2 questions.

1) Was told by dealership the grade oil I need to get for my R350 is 5W-40.

After going to 2 retailers and calling a few more; I realized only provider is the dealership (or on-line).

Is the 0W-40 an okay substitute??????????

(want to make sure ... although it appears so from other threads).


2) Headlights!!!! Ugh!

I have had so many issues with my headlights going out .... burning out, or, electrical/wiring malfunctions (?). Not sure because each time I go in they "replace" -- and within a few months a new issue pops-up in a couple instances with the same light! (While under warranty the dealership 'fixed') Now I'm out of warranty and I just can't imagine my 'light bulbs' burn out so quickly. Just recently I noticed they come on and off, with the corresponding message on my control panel.

Now my in car controls don't work- when in off position on in-car control knob... lights remain on (even with ignition off) until key removed. Same with auto-lights AND my right main headlight out!

I don't want to get ripped off when I take this in to repair- or spend more time or money on this unless absolutely necc.!! Help me .... any advice??
(could it be a fuse? could it have to do with change in weather? some loose wiring somewhere?)

mbmom

What I meant to say is the the lighting-knob in my car doesn't control actual function of headlights anymore. eg. When knob set to 'off position' the lights remain on, until I take my key out of ignition. Also, when set to 'auto', the lights remain on even in daylight. Finally, the lights don't turn on at all, when knob set to the next-knob click to right beyond auto (dont know name of setting?) ......

ohlord

mobil1 synthetic.
mobil1 5w40 is for diesels
use the 0w40 autozone has it on sale for 4.99 right now.

Lights must be a problem with the switch
dealer should have fixed it along time ago.
See if they honor the warranty work they performed.

gforaker

Definitely! If they have a record of trying to fix it several times, then it is a still unresolved problem reported to them under the warranty.

adr4

You are describing the same issue that I am having with my lights right now. Lights throughout the car continue to fail. We have replaced the low beam lights twice, the front parking lights have both been replaced, and one license plate light, all have been replaced in the last year. Rear brake light also has been repaired. I am taking the R500 in within the next couple of weeks. I will let you know what they say. I have the extended warranty so it should be covered. The only thing that I can think of is that it could be some kind of voltage regulator issue.

As the post above says the Mobile One 0w40 is what you need.

socketman

Check the cluster and make sre the lights are not set to constant or day running lights enabled

Ted Flynn

The 0W-40 will not work in cold temperatures.

I too went through a few head lights in the beginning & then it seemed like it all straightened out.

Maybe they had a bad batch of bulbs?

ohlord

smoking crack again? "0w40 will not work in cold temperatures"?
Where some people come up with their misguided information is way beyond me

0w40 is mb spec for gas engines and it will work down to sub - 25c

aggst1

+1 This is also stated in the owners manual.

smokersteve

I use Mobil 1 0w-40 euro oil. Oreilly auto parts also has a sale. Do not use fram oil filters. I change my oil every 10,000 miles. Do not suck your oil out like some others do. Remove the drain plug so you get all the oil.

aggst1

For whatever it is worth, all authorized MB dealers, (as far as I know), change the oil using the suction method. Authorized dealers for other German makes do the same also.

Benzo 003

The Mobil 1 site even states that 0 w 40 will pour like water to -40 degrees F.

0W40 is the only way to go...

the suction method used by the dealer is for simplicity. No lifts, no jacks, no damaging a car. It is quicker and can be performed at the dealer by less trained employees so the "real" techs can be at the bigger jobs. I am not opposed, but I am a "plug" drainer.

lkchris

The vacuum method of removing engine oil has been conclusively demonstrated to do a better job removing the most oil. The engine is designed for it. Mercedes engines have been designed for this since the 1970s. If you persist in doing the it the hard way, understand that Mercedes drain plug washers are always replaced, i.e. never reused ... also by design.

smokersteve

I would like to see a diagram on where the dip stick ends up in the oil pan, and where the suction tube will end up when it is used to suck the oil out.
I just do not see how this will remove more oil than the drain plug.

gforaker

I own a sailboat with a diesel auxiliary engine. I don't really have access to the drain at the bottom, but now have a tube attached to the drain plug. For years I have compared sucking the oil out from the dipstick vs the drain plug. Usually there is negligible difference. Mercedes Benz could make it a perfectly good method as long as they make sure that it is the deepest part of the oil sump. A slight depression there would be perfect. They could also decide to put the drain plug in the same spot. Do they design and build the engines that way? Beats me.

Benzo 003

I'm with Steve,

If the oil is making it 2 inches up the dipstick to be measured, then how could the vacuum method be slurpping up that last 1/4 to 1/8 of inch oil on the bottom of the pan. The dip tube cannot be flush to the bottom.
This debate will go on forever.

M/B made it easy for service, not for engine function. If the suction method is the proper way, then why the drainplug? My dipstick is angled to the rear of the engine where my drainplug is in the front. Obviously not draining from the same location.

Everybody should just do what they prefer, but please stop trying to sell your method as better or best. If it works for you, so be it. I use the plug. It takes longer, it's more involved, but I like to get under there and examine everything else going on too. My dealership parts guy always throws me a drainplug washer with a filter purchase.....he never asks if I use suction or the drainplug......hmmmm

aggst1

I don't think anyone is selling the method they prefer. I simply stated that MB allows it's authorized dealer network to use suction. A lot of folks don't trust this method as if it was a claim from some EBay company or something. That's not the case however since it is the designated way from MB. Obviously they tested it and saw that any residual amount of oil is not harmfull. Is it for convenience? Of course! Would they compromise the longevity of the motor for the convenience of their dealer network? I just don't buy that.

gforaker

Benzo,

Unless MB does it different than I do, they probably don't just suck on the dipstick tube, they insert a rubber tube down it and therefor have suction on the bottom of the pan where the tube is located.

Is the filter accessible from the top of the engine? Many cars are designed to drop the filter while the car is up on a lift. If that is the case, then it just makes sense to pull the drain plug then. Even if the filter can come up from the top, it is usually dripping oil all over and dropping it down might be easier and cleaner.

smokersteve

I will stand by the plug and say that this will get more oil out, regardless of the effort.



same here!!!!!

Benzo 003

The dealership most definitely uses the dip tube as the suction device. A small O-ringed metal plug is inserted about an inch into the tube causing a tight seal and the pump in attached to that.

I had my dealership show me first hand.

aggst1....I wasnt calling anyone out, I think you understand the point I was trying to make.

It is of my opinion that there is a reason that M/B can perform a simple service by simply lifting the hood. The liability of damaging a vehicle with a lift or jack is erased. That also shortens the time spent on the vehicle. Billing for 1 manhour per change when in actuality, 3 to 4 vehicles could be done by 1 tech in 1 hour. Not to mention, a porter could do this for a fraction of what a tech gets paid.

aggst1

Benzo, I do understand your point.
As far as the major time savings you describe so that they can perform 3-4 oil changes as opposed to one with the drain method would be understandable for a jiffy lube and the like. Not for a dealer shop because they don't perform oil changes only. The vast majority of owners leave their car there for the day and get a loaner. The oil change is only one of several items they perform on the car so although it is to their benefit to save time you can't say they service twice as many cars by using suction. Also, even if we buy that they use suction for their benefit, I am still not convinced what benefit Mercedes Benz gets out of the deal?

lkchris

From the top on any and all German cars these days. They're all designed for vacuum oil extraction, too.*

Most of them have extensive under-engine noise encapsulation panels, too, so the vacuum method avoids having to remove all that. For the average DIY guy it's safer, too.

*"55" AMGs require drain plug draining.

runbuh

Hey - mbmom - do you happen to live in Alabama? Your problems sound exactly like the problems one of my co-workers is having with his silver R-Class. His initials are SK. If you are his wife, be aware that his company gets a discount from "Express Oil Change". They carry the exact synthetic Euro spec oil you need, are neat and quick, and they let you watch everything they do. I would get the filter kit from the dealer, though, and skip whatever aftermarket filter they use. Also - they drain the oil via the drain plug.

As for the lighting (SK told me about how poor the visibility is on your car) - I just installed the factory fogs on my 2007. Hope to get the car coded next week to enable the fogs. I can provide your hubby with the part numbers I used for the fogs (assuming yours is also a 2007). I am using Silverstar Ultra bulbs for every H7 and H11 light on the front of the car. They do make the visibility a lot better with the testing I've done on the headlights, but they still suck compared to HIDs from the factory. I would recommend against going with aftermarket HIDs because they do not autolevel (vertically). Without the autoleveling, your headlights can really get in the eyes of oncoming drivers on hilly terrain, even when aimed properly on level ground.

R. Reyes

There was a TSB sometime in '09 for the wiring harness to be replaced, for doing the exact thing your complaining about w/ your lights. I would have them check into it.